Finished a 12B4 preamp, voltages good and signal passing just fine.
Only issue is there is a nasty loud pop when the preamp is first turned on (nothing on power off). I am using a SPST to break the 120V on the primary of my PT.
I tried a 0.01uF 1000V cap across the switch, no luck. My IEC jack is the filtered type so I think technically there is a cap across the Live and Neutral output jacks of the IEC.
What else can I try to remove this nasty pop when the power is turned on? How do I select a thermistor to try?
Thanks!
Only issue is there is a nasty loud pop when the preamp is first turned on (nothing on power off). I am using a SPST to break the 120V on the primary of my PT.
I tried a 0.01uF 1000V cap across the switch, no luck. My IEC jack is the filtered type so I think technically there is a cap across the Live and Neutral output jacks of the IEC.
What else can I try to remove this nasty pop when the power is turned on? How do I select a thermistor to try?
Thanks!
Easy fix is turn on amp second.
I used to run a mobile disco with mains switches for the record decks.
I got a huge pop through the speaker when I switched decks on/off.
100nf across contacts reduced it a lot.
I used to run a mobile disco with mains switches for the record decks.
I got a huge pop through the speaker when I switched decks on/off.
100nf across contacts reduced it a lot.
Circuit diagram, including PSU?
Caps across power switches usually only help with power off clicks.
Caps across power switches usually only help with power off clicks.
Circuit is a common cathode 12B4 stage with CCS plate load. PSU is Glassware Audio’s PS-1, regulated HV and heater supplies.
http://tubecad.com/2008/11/16/ps-1%20high-voltage%20regulator%20schematic.png
I bought a 120V MOV today.
http://ca.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Bourns/MOV-14D201K/?qs=CQ3B1E%252bbPs03MMZJP6riEA%3d%3d
I will try the MOV tonight.
http://tubecad.com/2008/11/16/ps-1%20high-voltage%20regulator%20schematic.png
I bought a 120V MOV today.
http://ca.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Bourns/MOV-14D201K/?qs=CQ3B1E%252bbPs03MMZJP6riEA%3d%3d
I will try the MOV tonight.
Mute the output for 30s with a timer controlled relay. K&K Audio makes a convenient kit based on the 555 timer chip for this purpose. I use two. One to delay the application of the B+ for 30s and one to mute the output for 45s.
K&K Audio | Other kits
K&K Audio | Other kits
Solid-state rectifiers means HT/B+ is applied on switch-on. This will be sent via the output coupling cap straight to the output. Three solutions:
1. use vacuum rectifier
2. make the PSU voltage rise slowly
3. add a mute facility
1. use vacuum rectifier
2. make the PSU voltage rise slowly
3. add a mute facility
Solid-state rectifiers means HT/B+ is applied on switch-on. This will be sent via the output coupling cap straight to the output. Three solutions:
1. use vacuum rectifier
2. make the PSU voltage rise slowly
3. add a mute facility
2. Could a thermistor be used in series with the B+?
If you check out the thermistor data sheets, I think what you'll want to look for is something that will give you decent resistance cold, but allow you to draw a good percentage of its max current to bring that resistance down in operation. That might be difficult because the pre won't be drawing much at 120VAC (assuming thermistor on the primary of the power transformer).
edit:
I've always put it on the primary side because it then also serves as a back up fuse (yes, I use fuses too). If it blows in your secondary, more of your amp will potentially remain energized. When going solid state rectification, I've always included one. I haven't noticed excessive turn on pops, but then I do always turn the pre on before the power amp.
edit:
2. Could a thermistor be used in series with the B+?
I've always put it on the primary side because it then also serves as a back up fuse (yes, I use fuses too). If it blows in your secondary, more of your amp will potentially remain energized. When going solid state rectification, I've always included one. I haven't noticed excessive turn on pops, but then I do always turn the pre on before the power amp.
Last edited:
The data sheet for NTC inrush current limiting thermistors is here.
I tend to look at the CL-90 and CL-130. When the "steady state" draw of the signal circuitry is not large enough to create enough heat, encapsulating the thermistor in wool or acrylic yarn plus heatshrink can be tried. Retain what heat is generated, to cause the resistance to decrease towards 0 ohms.
I tend to look at the CL-90 and CL-130. When the "steady state" draw of the signal circuitry is not large enough to create enough heat, encapsulating the thermistor in wool or acrylic yarn plus heatshrink can be tried. Retain what heat is generated, to cause the resistance to decrease towards 0 ohms.
I've used upc1237 based boards for that in the past. delayed relay on the output, dc protection, and since the circuit is powered by 12vac it prevents turn-off thump as well.
That won't have sufficient effect. You need something like a capacitance multiplier so the voltage rises quite slowly.ChrisM91 said:2. Could a thermistor be used in series with the B+?
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