Hi Arthur,
If you want a low gain linestage...the 12b4 might actually be the better option.
If you do want a low gain linestage..you might go 6as7-6as7..but that is a lot of heat for just a linestage 😉
Maybe a 6C19 , 6C19 would also work for low gain, I think the Mu is ~3, I have the spec sheet but cannot read it. I have a box of 50 of them. I read (on this board I think) that the 6C19 is similar to half of a 6AS7, I never made the effort to verify how similar.
I just finished wiring a 6SN7 , 6SN7 but need to check it a third time before firing it up. already drilled out an Aluminum plate for the 6C19 , 6C19 version. Not sure yet about any values though, will get to that stage eventually, maybe😉
Andrew
I just finished wiring a 6SN7 , 6SN7 but need to check it a third time before firing it up. already drilled out an Aluminum plate for the 6C19 , 6C19 version. Not sure yet about any values though, will get to that stage eventually, maybe😉
Andrew
Good call! But not an these pcb's though..since they need 2 triodes in one envelope. The 6C19 would need 4 sockets per channel.
Octal Aikido.
Hi Bas, I've been having a look at the octal board and wondered where RV2 has come from. I don't have any diagrams showing RV2. Could I see the diagram that the boards were modelled from please? Thanks, Si.
Hi Bas, I've been having a look at the octal board and wondered where RV2 has come from. I don't have any diagrams showing RV2. Could I see the diagram that the boards were modelled from please? Thanks, Si.
Well spotted...
It is something you can leave out...i.e. just use a wire. What I hoped to do...is make it more flexible for more tubes so that you can dial in ratios. (for the resistive voltage divider that determines the feedback of ripple into the circuit for correction)..within reason of course..or if you have a distortion meter...dial in for least distortion...or at least that is the idea.
The octal is a generic board. So almost any of the aikido schematics can be used.
Regards,
Bas
Some pics of the Aikido by JacquesF77
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RV2
Hello again Bas, Thanks for that, I thought I'd missed something! Having just seen the boards built by Jacques77 I'm wondering if it would be possible to mount the components on the other side of the board,ie the track side and leave the octal bases on the correct side. The reason for this is so I can stick the valve bases through the top plate of my chassis without the other components getting in the way.The board would sit around five/ten mm below the chassis top plate and the valves would be on show above. Si.
Hello again Bas, Thanks for that, I thought I'd missed something! Having just seen the boards built by Jacques77 I'm wondering if it would be possible to mount the components on the other side of the board,ie the track side and leave the octal bases on the correct side. The reason for this is so I can stick the valve bases through the top plate of my chassis without the other components getting in the way.The board would sit around five/ten mm below the chassis top plate and the valves would be on show above. Si.
Re: RV2
Maybe this is too obvious, but just make sure you are NOT buying PCB-style short-lead film caps, like the blue ones from Digikey that you often see specified in the SS and Chipamp forums. I doubt you will be able to space these out enough from the PCB to fit an iron between the solder pad and the body of the cap.
harwoodspark said:
Bas Horneman said:
Maybe this is too obvious, but just make sure you are NOT buying PCB-style short-lead film caps, like the blue ones from Digikey that you often see specified in the SS and Chipamp forums. I doubt you will be able to space these out enough from the PCB to fit an iron between the solder pad and the body of the cap.
Looks to me like it could be mounted OK, "as is" using stand-offs. Looks like only a small part of the tube would be below the chassis and this would be no issue re cooling if the tube holes were slightly oversize. The extra gap from the stand-offs would improve airflow.
Could we have some measurements regarding the top of the tallest component ( looks like that cylindical cap ) relative to the top of the tube sockets?
The WIMA cap looks like it could be mounted lying over.
Might it be possible also to mount the tube sockets very slightly higher??
cheers
Could we have some measurements regarding the top of the tallest component ( looks like that cylindical cap ) relative to the top of the tube sockets?
The WIMA cap looks like it could be mounted lying over.
Might it be possible also to mount the tube sockets very slightly higher??
cheers
I'm probably stating the obvious here but another approach would be to mount the tube sockets on the chassis and wire solid core extensions from the socket pins to the stand-off mounted board.
cheers
cheers
board mounting.
Hello hifryer, I did consider using short leads from the base to the board. I was just looking for a more elegant solution. I've just had another idea whilst writing this and that is to use chassis mount bases and hang the board off the bases via those short leads. That seems like an elegant solution to me. What do you think? Si.
Hello hifryer, I did consider using short leads from the base to the board. I was just looking for a more elegant solution. I've just had another idea whilst writing this and that is to use chassis mount bases and hang the board off the bases via those short leads. That seems like an elegant solution to me. What do you think? Si.
Hi Harwoodspark,
That's what I meant.
If you go that way, it is probably easiest to pull right through and solder the socket wires to the board AFTER mounting both the sockets and the board. I don't like the idea of longish wires coiled about.
I find it more elegant to have as few bolts in the top plate as possible - preferably none. Rigid mounting of the sockets on the board means both easier disassembly and a cleaner looking top-plate.
Either way is probably pretty good.
cheers
That's what I meant.
If you go that way, it is probably easiest to pull right through and solder the socket wires to the board AFTER mounting both the sockets and the board. I don't like the idea of longish wires coiled about.
I find it more elegant to have as few bolts in the top plate as possible - preferably none. Rigid mounting of the sockets on the board means both easier disassembly and a cleaner looking top-plate.
Either way is probably pretty good.
cheers
Hi Bas, I am going away tonight and will not be back until next Friday evening. Just thought I'd let you know in case of any further developments. Si.
Hi Si,
Ok..thanks..well the initial interest seems to have tapered off..so I think we pretty much know how many boards need to be made.
Only news from the board maker is :
JPS has told me that he's going to show us some adapter boards so that the octal board can be changed to nine pin and loctal for instance.
Adapter boards
Adapter boards very useful in their own right for prototyping. Nice to have.
BUT I vote very strongly against them as an alternative to making seperate octal and nine pins boards.
They would make any permanent design a dogs breakfast. Or maybe I just don't understand how they would be used??
May as well just wire a socket to a plug or dud tube base??
Or does a "mother" board have a big square out of it and the two boards bolted together and jumpered??
Looks like a kludge to me :-(
What's the problem making 2 boards??
ONLY an advantage if somehow one could roll tubes between Octal and nine pin without solder mods or disassembly and I doubt this possible.
cheers
Adapter boards very useful in their own right for prototyping. Nice to have.
BUT I vote very strongly against them as an alternative to making seperate octal and nine pins boards.
They would make any permanent design a dogs breakfast. Or maybe I just don't understand how they would be used??
May as well just wire a socket to a plug or dud tube base??
Or does a "mother" board have a big square out of it and the two boards bolted together and jumpered??
Looks like a kludge to me :-(
What's the problem making 2 boards??
ONLY an advantage if somehow one could roll tubes between Octal and nine pin without solder mods or disassembly and I doubt this possible.
cheers
Adapter boards (rethink)
I guess I went off not really understanding these ;-(
I took another look an now see how they facilitate change wihout a major rebuild. So I guess I'm not so against.
( wiping egg off face )
HOWEVER Making just a noval board and somesort of rigid adapter assemblies which faciliate all 4 types of sockets to mount to a noval plug would be IMHO superior.
Mount board low on standoffs and use a chassis hole to suit biggest tube.
This way all tube types could be wired for and quickly rolled in A:B tests with no other changes required!!
Quite possible with a bit of ingenuity. Otherwise you just about have to build two amps to compare anyway so dont need adapter.
(flame suit on ;-)
cheers
I guess I went off not really understanding these ;-(
I took another look an now see how they facilitate change wihout a major rebuild. So I guess I'm not so against.
( wiping egg off face )
HOWEVER Making just a noval board and somesort of rigid adapter assemblies which faciliate all 4 types of sockets to mount to a noval plug would be IMHO superior.
Mount board low on standoffs and use a chassis hole to suit biggest tube.
This way all tube types could be wired for and quickly rolled in A:B tests with no other changes required!!
Quite possible with a bit of ingenuity. Otherwise you just about have to build two amps to compare anyway so dont need adapter.
(flame suit on ;-)
cheers
aikido 9 pin boards
Hello Bas,
Are there any plans to make some more Aikido 9 pin boards and power supplies? If so, I would like to have some. I emailed John Broskie about his boards, but that was months ago and he hasn't replied yet, so I presume that his are not available.
I do not understand the thing about having the voltage in the power supplies and hope that you can elaborate in your "manual". I am sure that I am not the only one who needs your manual and feels rather dumb about above zero reference voltages, even though I built a few simple solid state amps.
Hello Bas,
Are there any plans to make some more Aikido 9 pin boards and power supplies? If so, I would like to have some. I emailed John Broskie about his boards, but that was months ago and he hasn't replied yet, so I presume that his are not available.
I do not understand the thing about having the voltage in the power supplies and hope that you can elaborate in your "manual". I am sure that I am not the only one who needs your manual and feels rather dumb about above zero reference voltages, even though I built a few simple solid state amps.