i have an amp screwed into the back of my subwoofer box in my trunk, and if i were to get a puncture and have to change a wheel, it would be a lot easier to get to the spare if i could whip the sub box (and amp) out quickly.
so i was thinking that a computer plug and socket would be great to use, 'cos it has 3 pins, which i can connect to power, ground and remote wires. then all i hav to do to remove the sub and amp would be to unplug the RCA jacks and the computer plug and its done.
i just have one concern, and that is will the plug be able to handle the current flowing through it??
so i was thinking that a computer plug and socket would be great to use, 'cos it has 3 pins, which i can connect to power, ground and remote wires. then all i hav to do to remove the sub and amp would be to unplug the RCA jacks and the computer plug and its done.
i just have one concern, and that is will the plug be able to handle the current flowing through it??
That's a great idea,and it probally would work.But there are some things to keep in mind when attempting to do this:
Wattage rating of the quick-disconnect you plan on using -vs- the total wattage rating (power supply) of the amplifier your using.
And how about just removing the amp from the box.This will prevent an early failure of the amp.And keeping the quick-disconnect on the subwoofer cabniet only. Its probaly the cabniet thats really in the way.
Wattage rating of the quick-disconnect you plan on using -vs- the total wattage rating (power supply) of the amplifier your using.
And how about just removing the amp from the box.This will prevent an early failure of the amp.And keeping the quick-disconnect on the subwoofer cabniet only. Its probaly the cabniet thats really in the way.
The power input plug on a computer is rated at no more than 10 amps. And I am giving it too much credit. Probably good for 5 amps safely. What kind of amp do you have. I am sure it pulls way more than 10 amps.
Get some "SB" connectors. These are used to connect battery packs to floor sweepers, forklifts and other heavy duty machines. Available in ratings above 100A it should be more than enough.
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thanks, i thought the current rating would be a bit unsafe.
i know i should remove the amp from the box, but i don't really have any place to mount it, plus i re-used the wiring from my old car so the wires are a little short.
those "SB" connectors look good, but i was hoping to use the computer cable 'cos i got a spare plug and socket.
as for the amp, its 1000w 4ch, and i am only using 2 ch bridged.
it has 2x 25A fuses, 1 for channel 1 & 2, and the other for channel 3&4. so the max current drawn should be less than 25A
i know i should remove the amp from the box, but i don't really have any place to mount it, plus i re-used the wiring from my old car so the wires are a little short.
those "SB" connectors look good, but i was hoping to use the computer cable 'cos i got a spare plug and socket.
as for the amp, its 1000w 4ch, and i am only using 2 ch bridged.
it has 2x 25A fuses, 1 for channel 1 & 2, and the other for channel 3&4. so the max current drawn should be less than 25A
Dan2 said:
When you're bridging an amplifier you're essentially combining the power of two channels. If you've got a 4 channel amp bridged down to 2 channels, you're effectively using all 4 channels still.
Regardless, those 10A IEC C13/14 sockets (that's what the sockets on computers are called) is not going to be sufficient.
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