I thought I'd start a projector log to document the start to finish progress of my projector. Like the title says, this is my first pj so be prepared for me to screw up 😉
Currently all the parts have been ordered and I'm just waiting for them to arrive. Here's what I'll be using:
Proview 15.4" WS LCD
Ushio S400DD 400w bulb
HPS ballast
135 triplet from DIYPC
220fl rear fresnel
550fl front fresnel
IKEA napkin reflector
It's going to be a straight design, long throw with keystone correction hopefully (but maybe not with that fresnel/triplet combo).
That's all for now until I get all the parts.
Currently all the parts have been ordered and I'm just waiting for them to arrive. Here's what I'll be using:
Proview 15.4" WS LCD
Ushio S400DD 400w bulb
HPS ballast
135 triplet from DIYPC
220fl rear fresnel
550fl front fresnel
IKEA napkin reflector
It's going to be a straight design, long throw with keystone correction hopefully (but maybe not with that fresnel/triplet combo).
That's all for now until I get all the parts.
I for one, am really interested in your results...
Ive been biding my time till I can afford to get my REAL projector in the works...
Right now I have a Straight through 15" PJ using a BenQ 567s and the Lumen Lab Lens kit, and a 250watt HQI bulb I bought from some online source with an ICECAP Ballast I bought from Dr Foster Smith. I am also using an IKEA Knapkin reflector.
I also bought the 400 watt Lumen Lab light system, but I dont really like the Mogul base bulbs... I think the double ended bulbs are better to work with. My 250 watt Double Ended bulb is pretty darn bright!
Couple of things:
The way I built my light engine was I cut 2 rectangular metal plates from aluminum sheet I bought from Onlinemetals.com .
Then I drilled 4 holes (1 in each corner) to fit threaded rod through to connect the 2 plates together.
Then I drilled 4 more holes for threaded rods to connect the whole assembly to the back of my projector. There are 4 threaded rods that suspend the lamp assembly from the back of the projector.
Then I cut (using a jigsaw) a large hole in the center of both metal plates. The hole in the rear plate is just big enough to not let the knapkin holder fall through. I cut the "Ring" part of the knapkin holder off (except for a tab), and drilled a hole through the remaining tab on the knapkin ring, and the rear plate... through this hole I put a screw to mount the knapkin holder to the rear plate.
NOW...
I mounted the FC2 holders to the front plate, and cut a large hole in the center of the front plate (between the 2 FC2 holders) for the light to get through to the fresnel.
So basically my lamp is mounted on the front plate (The lamp is inside the assembly pointing towards the reflector)... and the reflector is mounted on the rear plate.
This allows me to easily adjust the distance between the bulb and the reflector, by adjusting the bolts on the threaded rods in the OUTTER corners.
It also allows me to adjust the distance of the whole lamp assembly to the rear fresnel (by adjusting the INNER threaded rod bolts)
Ill see if I can get a good picture of what Im talking about.
The reason Im telling you this is that during my build, I found out one REALLY important thing: Its better to have something adjustable than to have to redesign/recut parts for some problem you might be able to tweak out if only THAT section had some kind of adjustment. When I built my projector for the 1st time (Im now probably on my 20th build at this point) Everything was static... I had major hotspots... If I would have had the light engine I have now... I would have just adjusted it rather than rebuild it several times.
Same thing goes for the Imaging Section, and the Projection Section of the projector.
Oh yeah... if I were you... I would add an IR mirror cut to the size of my LCD in my order, and if you are using a long throw lens you might want to analyze whether or not you want to spend the time trying to do keystone correction. Are you sure you need it?
Ive been biding my time till I can afford to get my REAL projector in the works...
Right now I have a Straight through 15" PJ using a BenQ 567s and the Lumen Lab Lens kit, and a 250watt HQI bulb I bought from some online source with an ICECAP Ballast I bought from Dr Foster Smith. I am also using an IKEA Knapkin reflector.
I also bought the 400 watt Lumen Lab light system, but I dont really like the Mogul base bulbs... I think the double ended bulbs are better to work with. My 250 watt Double Ended bulb is pretty darn bright!
Couple of things:
The way I built my light engine was I cut 2 rectangular metal plates from aluminum sheet I bought from Onlinemetals.com .
Then I drilled 4 holes (1 in each corner) to fit threaded rod through to connect the 2 plates together.
Then I drilled 4 more holes for threaded rods to connect the whole assembly to the back of my projector. There are 4 threaded rods that suspend the lamp assembly from the back of the projector.
Then I cut (using a jigsaw) a large hole in the center of both metal plates. The hole in the rear plate is just big enough to not let the knapkin holder fall through. I cut the "Ring" part of the knapkin holder off (except for a tab), and drilled a hole through the remaining tab on the knapkin ring, and the rear plate... through this hole I put a screw to mount the knapkin holder to the rear plate.
NOW...
I mounted the FC2 holders to the front plate, and cut a large hole in the center of the front plate (between the 2 FC2 holders) for the light to get through to the fresnel.
So basically my lamp is mounted on the front plate (The lamp is inside the assembly pointing towards the reflector)... and the reflector is mounted on the rear plate.
This allows me to easily adjust the distance between the bulb and the reflector, by adjusting the bolts on the threaded rods in the OUTTER corners.
It also allows me to adjust the distance of the whole lamp assembly to the rear fresnel (by adjusting the INNER threaded rod bolts)
Ill see if I can get a good picture of what Im talking about.
The reason Im telling you this is that during my build, I found out one REALLY important thing: Its better to have something adjustable than to have to redesign/recut parts for some problem you might be able to tweak out if only THAT section had some kind of adjustment. When I built my projector for the 1st time (Im now probably on my 20th build at this point) Everything was static... I had major hotspots... If I would have had the light engine I have now... I would have just adjusted it rather than rebuild it several times.
Same thing goes for the Imaging Section, and the Projection Section of the projector.
Oh yeah... if I were you... I would add an IR mirror cut to the size of my LCD in my order, and if you are using a long throw lens you might want to analyze whether or not you want to spend the time trying to do keystone correction. Are you sure you need it?
Your post makes me think I will probably make it more adjustable than I was planning.
Also, even with the long throw it's still going to be mounted on the ceiling so I'm going to need at least a little keystone correction.
I'm still waiting on parts so no build updates yet.
Also, even with the long throw it's still going to be mounted on the ceiling so I'm going to need at least a little keystone correction.
I'm still waiting on parts so no build updates yet.
Its difficult for me to get decent pictures using my cheesey camera, especially in low light...
Hopefully you can make this out...
There are 4 threaded rods that connect the whole assebly to the back of the PJ, and there are 4 more threaded rods that connect the front and back plates together... I probably could have done it with just 4 threaded rods if my fans were mounted differently but...
The Lamp is mounted to the front plate, and the knapkin holder is mounted to the rear one.
Hopefully you can make this out...
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
There are 4 threaded rods that connect the whole assebly to the back of the PJ, and there are 4 more threaded rods that connect the front and back plates together... I probably could have done it with just 4 threaded rods if my fans were mounted differently but...
The Lamp is mounted to the front plate, and the knapkin holder is mounted to the rear one.
Hello Luca,
Where did you buy/source your fc2 lamp bases? I am looking to use the following lamp:
Sylvania Light Bulb 64378 - HQI-DE250/DX - 250 watt T9.5 FC2 Base
Thanks
Troy
Where did you buy/source your fc2 lamp bases? I am looking to use the following lamp:
Sylvania Light Bulb 64378 - HQI-DE250/DX - 250 watt T9.5 FC2 Base
Thanks
Troy
Luca,
How did you cut the metal? Is it aluminum? So far, I've been considering only wood because I only have access to handheld power tools. Could they be used to trim aluminum and bore holes?
How did you cut the metal? Is it aluminum? So far, I've been considering only wood because I only have access to handheld power tools. Could they be used to trim aluminum and bore holes?
Your project is very similar to my own. I will be interested in your results. I'm building a straight through pj based on a proview 15.4" LCD. So far I've got the the fresnels cut to size and thinly framed in wood, the lcd framed, and the pj frame built. I still need a reflector, ir glass, and light. $ is the hold up on getting the light. I have planned in keystone correction, but am waiting to get it up and running to see how it actually works.
400w MH of some sort
Reflector of some sort
220 condenser fresnel
15.4" lcd
550 field fresnel
135mm opaque pj lens
CCM, yes you can use a hole saw to cut aluminum, even steel up to at least 24 guage.
Troy, you can get those lamp holders from diyprojectorcompany
400w MH of some sort
Reflector of some sort
220 condenser fresnel
15.4" lcd
550 field fresnel
135mm opaque pj lens
CCM, yes you can use a hole saw to cut aluminum, even steel up to at least 24 guage.
Troy, you can get those lamp holders from diyprojectorcompany
CCMCornell said:
I used a tablesaw to cut both plates, and a drill/jigsaw for the large holes. Its 1.2mm thick aluminum that I got from onlinemetals.com
I got my FC2 holders from diyprojector company.
OH... I almost forgot...
If anyone needs a DIYPC 135mm triplet, I have one that Im looking to sell... Im planning on building a PJ based on a 17" LCD and this lens wont work for me, but it will work for someone building a PJ using a 15.4" or smaller LCD. Its in perfect condition never been used...
If anyone needs a DIYPC 135mm triplet, I have one that Im looking to sell... Im planning on building a PJ based on a 17" LCD and this lens wont work for me, but it will work for someone building a PJ using a 15.4" or smaller LCD. Its in perfect condition never been used...
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