happy.gringo said:
Obviously since the 15" driver has a Qt=0.91, while the 10" driver has a Qt=0.68. The main difference between the two, other than the 10" sounding slightly better, is that the 15" is designed for use in large rooms, and the 10" is designed for use in small rooms.
But it's strange that you should suggest an open baffle driver, a good one though, when bizza stated quite clearly that he wasn't interested in 360 sound.
I don't think that he is familiar with the effects of baffle step, and so he didn't know what you had accomplished with your project, which is really more about getting a nice bass response than 360 sound.
Thank you all for your replies!!
1. So the sonic amp might not give me what I want with these speakers...
Do I have other alternatives on a budget? (say under $100 for an amp...)
2. Nanook: I really would not like to start from scratch, as it would defeat the
purpose of giving some use to my Dayton which are currently taking space on my desk!
The audiosource & carver amps are out of my budget...
Party duties would happen only like once every 6 months... 99% of the time the speakers
would be 1 meter away from me, in my small dorm room.
3. Happy gringo: Unfortunately I have no friends coming from the states anytime
soon. I do have to pay for extra shipping and customs taxes, thats why I would
like to purchase everything at once 🙁
Since I would like this system to be semi portable, I would say 15 inch drivers are
out of the question.
4. I have no clue what baffle step is 🙁
1. So the sonic amp might not give me what I want with these speakers...
Do I have other alternatives on a budget? (say under $100 for an amp...)
2. Nanook: I really would not like to start from scratch, as it would defeat the
purpose of giving some use to my Dayton which are currently taking space on my desk!
The audiosource & carver amps are out of my budget...
Party duties would happen only like once every 6 months... 99% of the time the speakers
would be 1 meter away from me, in my small dorm room.
3. Happy gringo: Unfortunately I have no friends coming from the states anytime
soon. I do have to pay for extra shipping and customs taxes, thats why I would
like to purchase everything at once 🙁
Since I would like this system to be semi portable, I would say 15 inch drivers are
out of the question.
4. I have no clue what baffle step is 🙁
Bizza: Costa Rica can't be that difficult to travel about - you might want to take the time to contact / visit "Johnin CR" - a prolific poster at this and other forums, as well as DIY speaker builder.
He should be able to offer you some sage advice, as well as demonstrate from a wide variety of driver/enclosure design types - a veritable smorgasboard of DIY audio-dom. It never hurts to have a little taste test before you commit to something this new.
cheers
He should be able to offer you some sage advice, as well as demonstrate from a wide variety of driver/enclosure design types - a veritable smorgasboard of DIY audio-dom. It never hurts to have a little taste test before you commit to something this new.
cheers
Chris b:
Thanks for the recommendation, I already emailed JohninCr
Now, for starters, I guess I need an amp right? -- I was looking at the AudioSource AMP100 from PartsExpress for $100 shipped.
Its 2 x 50 rms into 8 ohms.
I like a feature that it has: A/B switchable speaker outputs.
Do you think this is a good starters amp??
Thanks for the recommendation, I already emailed JohninCr
Now, for starters, I guess I need an amp right? -- I was looking at the AudioSource AMP100 from PartsExpress for $100 shipped.
Its 2 x 50 rms into 8 ohms.
I like a feature that it has: A/B switchable speaker outputs.
Do you think this is a good starters amp??
I'd definately take an amp10basic from www.41hz.com over that. It'll be about the same price shipped but you'd need to find a trafo somewhere too.
Saturnus said:
Second that motion - although to be honest, my recent experience has been that far less than 100W can be quite adequate, so even the AMP3 or 4 series could be enough for starters - but TEHO /YMMV etc.
Saturnus:
A couple of questions about those amps @ 41hz
1. Are these amps already built? -- Or do you get a box with the components and you have to put them together yourself?
2. Which other components do I need to buy with this amp to make it to work? -- Power supply?
3. I noticed that it is very small, yet it has as much power as the audiosource amp100... Whats up with that???
4. Would you happen to have pics of one of these amps working, with power supply and speakers connected?
Thanks
A couple of questions about those amps @ 41hz
1. Are these amps already built? -- Or do you get a box with the components and you have to put them together yourself?
2. Which other components do I need to buy with this amp to make it to work? -- Power supply?
3. I noticed that it is very small, yet it has as much power as the audiosource amp100... Whats up with that???
4. Would you happen to have pics of one of these amps working, with power supply and speakers connected?
Thanks
I'd suggest you surf the forum at 41Hz for a while, these are high performance / value products for the DIYer, and at the risk of underestimating your skill or comfort level, might not necessarily be your best bet for a first time project.
A virtual no brainer introduction to the "magic" of what this new class of amplifier can do would be either the Trends
http://www.audiomagus.com/index.php...facturer_id=0&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=27
or Sonic Impact:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=300-956
the above are only 2 of many (and more likely to follow) of compact & low power amps based on what is probably safe to describe as the evolutionary thinking of Dr Adya Tripathi's "Class-T" design.
How does can that much power be derived from such a small device, without the generation of wasted heat?
captured alien technology - being released to the public in carefully controlled doses?
A virtual no brainer introduction to the "magic" of what this new class of amplifier can do would be either the Trends
http://www.audiomagus.com/index.php...facturer_id=0&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=27
or Sonic Impact:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=300-956
the above are only 2 of many (and more likely to follow) of compact & low power amps based on what is probably safe to describe as the evolutionary thinking of Dr Adya Tripathi's "Class-T" design.
How does can that much power be derived from such a small device, without the generation of wasted heat?
captured alien technology - being released to the public in carefully controlled doses?
bizza said:
Bizza,
1. Nope. You have to solder the component in the board yourself. Most are normal hole mount types but there is a few relatively large surface mount components. They come in a large bag with the components grouped in other bag to make the mounting as easy as possible. Just follow the instructions.
2. You'll need a transformer, and some form of cooling plate although that could just be the metal (preferably aluminium) bottom or side of whatever cabinet you put it in. You could need a cabinet, and off course, connectors.
3. Actually I think it has even slightly more power but the sound quality you be hard-pressed to match at any, and I really do mean, ANY cost. It's a improved class-D amp, class-T, known and loved by so many for the staggering performance to price ratio in such products as the sonic T-amp, among some.
4. The forum at www.41hz.com has tons of pics of working amps. In the link in my sig, there's also a pic of two amps, though those are amp6basic ones.
sreten said:
Hi,
If you are going to use the drivers you have the above is still true.
Only scale the components for the bass/ mid, leave the tweeter
components the same except the L-pad may need adjusting
to set sensitivity, keep L-pad + tweeter the same resistance.
Ideally you need a tweeter with lowish Fs, Hi-Vi SD1.1 ($13) ?
🙂/sreten.
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