I put this thread here because it doesn't have anything to do with audio. As the title says, I need help identifying the component in the picture. I have absolutely no idea what it is. If you do, please help. There is some writing on it, but I can't make it out. It's way too faint, even with my maginification headset. I don't have a scope, which is probably what is needed. Thanks in advance for any help.
Please Help Identify Component
- Thread starter McInRantz
- Start date
It appears you are right, tubelab. I first looked at mouser and they don't appear to have anything like that. I then did a bing search and some pics of thermal fuses came up.
Now, how do I know what "size" to get since I can't read the writing on the one I have?
Thanks for your help in identifying this piece. I sort of thought it may some kind of a fusible link, but it looked different from all of the fusible links I have seen in the past.
Now, how do I know what "size" to get since I can't read the writing on the one I have?
Thanks for your help in identifying this piece. I sort of thought it may some kind of a fusible link, but it looked different from all of the fusible links I have seen in the past.
I was doing some research on Digikey. They have them.Not that I can order one $1.00 fuse from them. But anyway, it seems like the colored "pencil point tip" is some type of "coding" because in the dtatsheet that I downloaded for them, thereare some pictures of all kinds of different temperatures ones and they each have a different colored tip on them corresponding to different temperature cutoffs.
I'm going to try and do what you said and see if I can figure out for certain what temp cutoff one I need. Hopefully, I can find it somewhere around my town, so I don't need to mess with ordering this of the Internet and pay more for shipping than the part costs.
Thanks for the advice.
I found that site, too. He really doesn't say how to fix them, at least I didn't see that, but rather goes through the history of coffee makers and how they are fire hazzards. He's a PhD and a Professional Engineer. Like a Ralph Nadar, but educated. There's a bunch of pics on there of burned up coffee makers. Some people have died from resulting fires. Lots of coffee makers have been recalled. It's an interesting site.
I still can't find for 100% certainty what size thermal cutoff is needed. I "think" it's 216 C, but not 100% certain.
Also, this thermal cutoff is out of a Mr. Coffee, NOT a Black and Decker. I don't know why I was thinking of Black and Decker.
There are 1000000 brands out there, but maybe a couple dozen manufacturers (if that many) and a coffee maker is a coffee maker; I guess digging up a couple coffeemaker schematics (not here in DIYA I guess ) can give you a guide about what bthey need.
The problem is that not only they are not adjustable, which might let you adjust it up or down until it works as it should, but also they are 1 shot only.
You pick too low a value: they blow for good and you are back to square one (have to order another, etc.) , too high and it's the same as not having it at all.
EDIT: some of this might help:
http://www.fixya.com/support/t279205-black_decker_coffee_maker_de755b
The problem is that not only they are not adjustable, which might let you adjust it up or down until it works as it should, but also they are 1 shot only.
You pick too low a value: they blow for good and you are back to square one (have to order another, etc.) , too high and it's the same as not having it at all.
EDIT: some of this might help:
http://www.fixya.com/support/t279205-black_decker_coffee_maker_de755b
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I guess I'd like to put back in what came out. After all, only one burned out. It's a different set-up in this coffee maker from others I have been looking at on the Internet. Most of the other ones I have looked at seem to have 2 thermal cutoffs IN SERIES. This Mr. Coffee I have is different. There is ONE thermal cutoff in EACH of the lines running up to the "pump". The warmer pad still works. Everything EXCEPT the "pump" works. The warmer and electronics are setup on a different circuit enitrely and have a buss type fuse protecting them.
I think the next jump up from the 216 C thermal cutoff is 228 C. Then it jumps to 240 C after that. Parts Express has NTE brand. I have an order I'm getting ready sitting in my cart at PE. If I can find which one to get, that would be good. I'll check back in tomorrow. Getting too late.
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Parts Express has them. They're about the cheapest I've seen. About $1.32 - $1.75. Radio Shack wants $5.00 a piece. I'm still trying to figure out which temperature to get. Still trying to get a number off the old one I have. I wouldn't mind going up to the next higher temp. I wonder if that would really be all that bad or dangerous?
If the B&D coffee maker uses 216C , then go for it.
Do NOT repeat NOT go higher, if yours opened it's not because it malfunctioned or was improperly rated but because your coffee maker overheated beyond design temperature, period.
Why? ........... who knows? ... maybe it dried up inside, some pipe or hole was blocked or dirty, it was aginst some cardboard box or very close to a stove, in any case the proof that it reached dangerous temperatures is that thernmal fuse triggered.
You want the new one to trigger at the same temperature.
In principle it won't , because it shouldn't reach that temperature again, and if the thermostat is damaged, then that is the component to replace.
The blown thermal fuse is the symptom, not the illness.
Why take the B&D as an example?
Because basically all are made by the same monster Factory, only brand changes.
Look at this very interesting Video; if anything because it's eye opening:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uDhJ76cYpcE
Do NOT repeat NOT go higher, if yours opened it's not because it malfunctioned or was improperly rated but because your coffee maker overheated beyond design temperature, period.
Why? ........... who knows? ... maybe it dried up inside, some pipe or hole was blocked or dirty, it was aginst some cardboard box or very close to a stove, in any case the proof that it reached dangerous temperatures is that thernmal fuse triggered.
You want the new one to trigger at the same temperature.
In principle it won't , because it shouldn't reach that temperature again, and if the thermostat is damaged, then that is the component to replace.
The blown thermal fuse is the symptom, not the illness.
Why take the B&D as an example?
Because basically all are made by the same monster Factory, only brand changes.
Look at this very interesting Video; if anything because it's eye opening:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uDhJ76cYpcE
I hear you. It's a Mr Coffee BTW. I made a mistake and corrected it back earlier in the thread. I don't know what the temperature is of the blown thermal fuse since I can't read it. I only "think" it is 216C, but not 100% certain. Still trying to verify.
I took the other one(good one) out of the insulation jacket and looked at it under a headset magnifier AND a regular magnifying glass at the same time. I put a super bright LED on it and can still barely make out anything at all. I don't see any numbers, or can't make out any numbers on it, that resemble a temperature. The only number I can barely make out is a D181. I can't see a manufacturer name, either.
Would they both be the same temperature?
On this OLD , Emwood datasheet that I downloaded from a datasheet archives, a D181 seems to correspond to a 184C thermal cutoff. I don't know if other manufacturers label their cutoffs the same way or not. Like I said previously, I can't see a name on the bad cutoff I have. I don't know if it's an Elmwood or not. Do you think the D181 is, maybe, a "global" number and it should correspond to a 184C cutoff?
Would they both be the same temperature?
On this OLD , Emwood datasheet that I downloaded from a datasheet archives, a D181 seems to correspond to a 184C thermal cutoff. I don't know if other manufacturers label their cutoffs the same way or not. Like I said previously, I can't see a name on the bad cutoff I have. I don't know if it's an Elmwood or not. Do you think the D181 is, maybe, a "global" number and it should correspond to a 184C cutoff?
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I gave up on coffee makers and now use a pour over cone or a french press. My hot water pitcher has lasted longer than almost any coffee maker I have used and the whole lot is easier to clean. Speaking of mess, now that I have a filter cone, I don't use my french press much at all. Coffee makers do one thing, a hot water pitcher does much more, you can make any number of hot drinks, heat water really fast for recipes, etc.