A close friend of mine called me on the phone very excited to be receiving a set of speakers for the cost of shipping.
They came from the original owner; a beautiful set of Wharfedale Mach 7s.
However, we set them up and they emitted NO sound at all. He checked the jumper configuration on the input jacks, and the amplifier. With three separate amps.
These speakers have inputs as follows: one set of spring loaded connections for non-bi-wire option, and two red and two black holes for biwire option.
At this point, I have tried ALL options and the speakers make zero noise from any driver.
Is it possible the resettable tweeter protector is muting the sound?!
As per Wharfedale specs, the jumper makes no difference whether is set to bypass the protector or not.
Thank you
They came from the original owner; a beautiful set of Wharfedale Mach 7s.
However, we set them up and they emitted NO sound at all. He checked the jumper configuration on the input jacks, and the amplifier. With three separate amps.
These speakers have inputs as follows: one set of spring loaded connections for non-bi-wire option, and two red and two black holes for biwire option.
At this point, I have tried ALL options and the speakers make zero noise from any driver.
Is it possible the resettable tweeter protector is muting the sound?!
As per Wharfedale specs, the jumper makes no difference whether is set to bypass the protector or not.
Thank you
Sounds very unlikely that all the driver have blown!
This speaker seems to have some sort of electronics or muting or level connected at the top.
But the old trick is to connect a 1.5V penlight battery across a cone driver on its own, and listen for the crackle of life! Or measure the driver with a £5 multimeter and hope for about 6 ohms DC.
Do not try this with exotic ribbon tweeters, however.
It would do no harm to try that across the input either, before risking an amp.
Edit.I see I'm not the only person who knows this trick, Tromperie. LOL.
This speaker seems to have some sort of electronics or muting or level connected at the top.
But the old trick is to connect a 1.5V penlight battery across a cone driver on its own, and listen for the crackle of life! Or measure the driver with a £5 multimeter and hope for about 6 ohms DC.
Do not try this with exotic ribbon tweeters, however.
It would do no harm to try that across the input either, before risking an amp.
Edit.I see I'm not the only person who knows this trick, Tromperie. LOL.
Hi
The Wharfdale Mach speakers apparently feature resettable
overload protection.
If you cannot see a circuit breaker on the rear panel
I would send Wharfedale a message, here:
Wharfedale Hi-Fi
asking where the resettable overload protection is located.
Probably on a small panel you remove is my guess.
Cheers / Chris
The Wharfdale Mach speakers apparently feature resettable
overload protection.
If you cannot see a circuit breaker on the rear panel
I would send Wharfedale a message, here:
Wharfedale Hi-Fi
asking where the resettable overload protection is located.
Probably on a small panel you remove is my guess.
Cheers / Chris
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