I like them -- SDX7 is nice driver. They really give weight to everything. I've got an Hitachi (aka Sears Professional) 150 W Dual mono MosFET on them.
Next iteration will be sealed and maybe a little smaller.
dave
Next iteration will be sealed and maybe a little smaller.
dave
I've been looking at this .pdf file of the A126.
Is the curved cutout on the rear for any real reason other than just looks? And is it absolutely necessary for the defuser? Just curious.
Is the curved cutout on the rear for any real reason other than just looks? And is it absolutely necessary for the defuser? Just curious.
chops said:
Charles - it would probably take Ron more than a few words to describe why the curved cutout is critical - trust that it is, and that the radius is not arbitrary or cosmetic.
The prism diffuser less so, but it essentially serves to disperse/ deflect long wavelengths from reflecting off the rear wall back into the mouth of the horn, which can cause issues. We've used the deflectors with the Frugelhorns as well.
doorman said:
Don, remember - Dave draw, chris build
Impressions? for an "only" 7" driver, this particular combination is very musical* - the only caveat being the low sensitivity of the SD7, but with 2 per side and adequate power, the Fostex will probably hit the wall first (but I don't know if that's been proven yet )
*for the ultimate in regurgatory HT experience, you should look elsewhere
chrisb said:
Alright, so the radius makes sense. I'm sure it has something to do as to how the horn terminates to the walls/floor behind it for optimal coupling.
As for the deflectors, considering that these speakers (as most) will be toed in a bit for optimum imaging, I would think it would be somewhat unlikely that sound waves will reflect off the wall and back into the horns at that point.
chrisb said:
The RH84s start compressing before the Hitachi gives up the ghost(that didn't happen with the less 4 ohm capable amp.
dave
chops said:
"Sound is Round" ... anytime the mouth is not round the exiting waveform is deformed. The curve on the exit reduces this deformation.
dave
Chris: I'd recognize your handi-work anywhere- nice job!chrisb said:
I like the combination of the Fonken(s) cabs.
I doubt many of us here are into "pants-fluttering bass",more a nice solid foundation.I'll look forward to hearing them.
I'm looking for a next build--
Happy New Year, Don
planet10 said:
planet10 said:
Thanks Dave... Understood. 😉
doorman said:
Speak for yourself. 😀
Seriously though, if it's accurate and executed properly, you can have very musical and detailed "pants-fluttering bass" that blends right in with everything else. That's how I plan on doing it.
I think Ron has said something along these lines (forgive me Ron for the errors):
*ahem* A sound wave is naturally spherical. But it initially takes on the shape of whatever it launches from, e.g. baffle, aperture or in this case, terminus. If we make the terminus a squared-off rectangle (i.e., omit the curve on the diagram), then the terminus has a less-than-ideal aspect ratio (i.e., rather than spherical, it's a tall/thin rectangle). The wave wants to return to its spherical shape, so be polite and give the wave an assist by shaping the terminus ("launch pad") into something more akin to spherical.
Ron, I don't actually pretend to understand any of that, and no doubt it contains many errors. But I wrote it just in case you suspected we weren't paying close attention. We are, we are! 🙂
EDIT: Sorry Dave, I took too long to write this post and didn't see you already answered it with "sound is round."
*ahem* A sound wave is naturally spherical. But it initially takes on the shape of whatever it launches from, e.g. baffle, aperture or in this case, terminus. If we make the terminus a squared-off rectangle (i.e., omit the curve on the diagram), then the terminus has a less-than-ideal aspect ratio (i.e., rather than spherical, it's a tall/thin rectangle). The wave wants to return to its spherical shape, so be polite and give the wave an assist by shaping the terminus ("launch pad") into something more akin to spherical.
Ron, I don't actually pretend to understand any of that, and no doubt it contains many errors. But I wrote it just in case you suspected we weren't paying close attention. We are, we are! 🙂
EDIT: Sorry Dave, I took too long to write this post and didn't see you already answered it with "sound is round."
Yep!
I noticed this many years ago when evaluating industrial collimators used for radiographic sources. its fairly simple focusing of an energy.
ron
I noticed this many years ago when evaluating industrial collimators used for radiographic sources. its fairly simple focusing of an energy.
ron
Building subs into the deflector/using subs for deflectors works for me.
I have a pair of austins, chased sub placement for over a year, (front wall, back wall, side walls, corners, everywere). you could always tell where they were, playing low level at night, all the lights out.
Using a pair of down-firing 18s, 96dB efficient, tignt in the corners, forming the last part of the flare, and the austins against them, the waves combine smoothly.
And run off the same amp.
An EL84 SET (with good OPTs, etc.), and if anything, it was bass heavy without cutting the subs off low enough...
(The Zen is pretty bass shy, Eddie Vaughn design has more everything).
They're in the shop now, not in corners, but with tapped horns used as deflectors (@ 45 degree angle, same configuration).
True "pants-fluttering bass" that blends right in with everything else.
I have a pair of austins, chased sub placement for over a year, (front wall, back wall, side walls, corners, everywere). you could always tell where they were, playing low level at night, all the lights out.
Using a pair of down-firing 18s, 96dB efficient, tignt in the corners, forming the last part of the flare, and the austins against them, the waves combine smoothly.
And run off the same amp.
An EL84 SET (with good OPTs, etc.), and if anything, it was bass heavy without cutting the subs off low enough...
(The Zen is pretty bass shy, Eddie Vaughn design has more everything).
They're in the shop now, not in corners, but with tapped horns used as deflectors (@ 45 degree angle, same configuration).
True "pants-fluttering bass" that blends right in with everything else.
serenechaos said:
care to release drawings or photos of the sub cabs?
The Carina is quite a big couple of watts in triode mode, that's for sure
After 35yrs of marriage, I'm as willing to have my pants fluttered as the next guy (oops, I start to digress) , but my allusion was to the literally gut-wrenching, migraine inducing, band-pass wumpa-wumpa thumping that I've heard pass for LF support in some HT systems. Subtle and seamless, they were not.
"Subtle and seamless" is with a good SET.
"the literally gut-wrenching, migraine inducing, band-pass wumpa-wumpa thumping" was running both pair of speakers off a UREI 6500 (JBL studio) amp; 450 wpc < .1% distortion http://www.jblproservice.com/pdf/Vintage JBL-UREI Electronics/UREI-6500.pdf
Seriously loud on 3; my wife called me in the house, all doors & windows closed in house & shop, good distance between them, & pink floyds still @ pretty good volume inside...
Don't want to be in the same room by 5...
Another Eddie Vaughn design is "best" overall for shop (two car garage size); a EL84 PP, don't know pwr, maybe 10 wpc?
More than enough unless ya wanna get crazy...
"release drawings?"
I don't make fancy formal drawings for stuff I do @ home, just draw it up on paper & build. Guess I could draw them on in solid works...
The 18s are just sealed cabs, with Bag End drivers.
Baltic birch cabs, matrix cabs, in both directions, like the Levatian North Creek used to build, but different dimentions, (smaller to use Linkwitz Transform, flat to 8 Hz). Lined inside w/ hardi-backer, then spray bed liner. double wall baffle & back. Down-firing, w/ oak legs going up the sides & supporting the bottom of the square part to where the baffle is cut-out round. Very inert (& heavy).
The tapped horns work even better. Smaller footprint, but tall.
Use 40142HO Eminence, will do 25-100Hz +/- 3dB @ 100.5 dB in quarter space, + room gain brings it lower if in right room...
Check tapped horn thread, quite a few of them there.
JLH has a better one posted in there for these type speakers somewhere, 20 - 60 Hz; uses an inexpensive Tang-Band driver.
I built these for the bottom of a five-way FLH system.
But together w/ the austins, they rocked the woodshop over the weekend! 😀
r
"the literally gut-wrenching, migraine inducing, band-pass wumpa-wumpa thumping" was running both pair of speakers off a UREI 6500 (JBL studio) amp; 450 wpc < .1% distortion http://www.jblproservice.com/pdf/Vintage JBL-UREI Electronics/UREI-6500.pdf
Seriously loud on 3; my wife called me in the house, all doors & windows closed in house & shop, good distance between them, & pink floyds still @ pretty good volume inside...
Don't want to be in the same room by 5...
Another Eddie Vaughn design is "best" overall for shop (two car garage size); a EL84 PP, don't know pwr, maybe 10 wpc?
More than enough unless ya wanna get crazy...
"release drawings?"
I don't make fancy formal drawings for stuff I do @ home, just draw it up on paper & build. Guess I could draw them on in solid works...
The 18s are just sealed cabs, with Bag End drivers.
Baltic birch cabs, matrix cabs, in both directions, like the Levatian North Creek used to build, but different dimentions, (smaller to use Linkwitz Transform, flat to 8 Hz). Lined inside w/ hardi-backer, then spray bed liner. double wall baffle & back. Down-firing, w/ oak legs going up the sides & supporting the bottom of the square part to where the baffle is cut-out round. Very inert (& heavy).
The tapped horns work even better. Smaller footprint, but tall.
Use 40142HO Eminence, will do 25-100Hz +/- 3dB @ 100.5 dB in quarter space, + room gain brings it lower if in right room...
Check tapped horn thread, quite a few of them there.
JLH has a better one posted in there for these type speakers somewhere, 20 - 60 Hz; uses an inexpensive Tang-Band driver.
I built these for the bottom of a five-way FLH system.
But together w/ the austins, they rocked the woodshop over the weekend! 😀
r
Before I start thinking about subwoofer possibilities, I think I should at least get the A126's built first. 😀
However, it would be interesting to see those integrated subs you were talking about there serenechaos. 😉
BTW Dave, I just sent you an email.
However, it would be interesting to see those integrated subs you were talking about there serenechaos. 😉
BTW Dave, I just sent you an email.
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