Could you post a picture of the entire board? I worked on something very similar and it did not use an emitter follower pair to drive the Power Supply MOSFETs. Just a resistor and a single transistor per bank.
That would likely struggle to drive 3205's, I think.
That would likely struggle to drive 3205's, I think.
Ok before I put the 3205’s with 47 ohm gate resistors in their amp here is a picture of the entire drive circuit for the power supply .
After seeing these photos would you still proceed with the 3205’s ?
After seeing these photos would you still proceed with the 3205’s ?
Attachments
This doesn't really show anything definitive, as far as the drive circuit is involved.
If the circuit uses EF pairs between the driver board and the FET gate resistors, there should be no problem using 47 ohm gate resistors and 3205s.
If the circuit uses EF pairs between the driver board and the FET gate resistors, there should be no problem using 47 ohm gate resistors and 3205s.
The 3205’s didn’t work in this amp .
It worked on the bench but in a car it lasted about 5 mins and blew the power supply fets .
I talked with Zed audio and he said I shouldn’t have switched the gate resistor value in the amp . I should have left the 220 ohm gate resistors .
Do you know What fets I could use with the 220 ohm gate resistors in this amp ?Since the BUZ102’s are obsolete
It worked on the bench but in a car it lasted about 5 mins and blew the power supply fets .
I talked with Zed audio and he said I shouldn’t have switched the gate resistor value in the amp . I should have left the 220 ohm gate resistors .
Do you know What fets I could use with the 220 ohm gate resistors in this amp ?Since the BUZ102’s are obsolete
Did you test the amp thoroughly (driving to clipping for an extended period of time (ideally, until thermal protection kicks in)?
Ask ZED. I've butted heads with them on this in the past, even though I've never had problems with changing the resistors.
Ask ZED. I've butted heads with them on this in the past, even though I've never had problems with changing the resistors.
Back to this amp I got it back finally .
The power supply is blown but so is the output section .
The original outputs they used in this amp are BUZ21.
Wondering what a good replacement is for the outputs ?
Would the IRF540N or the IRF3415 work what is the better choice or is there a better option ?
Also would the IRFZ48N be a closer match to the BUZ102 for the power supply fets ?
The power supply is blown but so is the output section .
The original outputs they used in this amp are BUZ21.
Wondering what a good replacement is for the outputs ?
Would the IRF540N or the IRF3415 work what is the better choice or is there a better option ?
Also would the IRFZ48N be a closer match to the BUZ102 for the power supply fets ?
Last edited:
Anyone know a good replacement for the outputs in this amp?
Originals are BUZ21
Wondering if the 540N’S would work or would the 3415’s be a better choice
Originals are BUZ21
Wondering if the 540N’S would work or would the 3415’s be a better choice
The N version may be a problem.
Try both if you have them. When using subs, you will need to run the amp up to thermal protection to confirm that the bias is holding at high temps.
Try both if you have them. When using subs, you will need to run the amp up to thermal protection to confirm that the bias is holding at high temps.
- Home
- General Interest
- Car Audio
- Planet Audio P2502