I'm visiting my mom, and there are some things that ideally I'd like to trim-a sticking door in the basement, and basement windows that are very hard to open because they and their frames have been painted over so many times.
Do you think a planer would work better, or a power sander or such? I haven't priced planers, and haven't used one in a long time. One of my concerns is that while I can remove the door, I cannot remove the windows, which means holding them open while trying to plane. And the windows have turnbuckles and latches along one edge, so I ran run the planer hanging over both sides of the wood (the window edge is about as thick as a door FYI).
???
Do you think a planer would work better, or a power sander or such? I haven't priced planers, and haven't used one in a long time. One of my concerns is that while I can remove the door, I cannot remove the windows, which means holding them open while trying to plane. And the windows have turnbuckles and latches along one edge, so I ran run the planer hanging over both sides of the wood (the window edge is about as thick as a door FYI).
???
If you are familiar with both, only you will know which meets your needs. If you can't remove something, or it is difficult then a belt sander might be best. Power planers can be a little tricky at times
You plan to buy? A power planer is the optimum tool, but you'd have to have a lot of similar jobs to make it worth it. I'd go with a belt sander, much more usuable generally for projects, and more forgiving to learn to use.
I would use a sharp hand plane on the door and paint remover on the windows.
Sanding old paint may release lead.
Sanding old paint may release lead.
Yeah, great for big jobs or just major removal, but better a hand plane for finish work, hard to get to areas.
GM
The window sashes normally come out some way. If they don't, you can't clean-up all the way into the corner.
I doubt you want a power plane on sashes.
Maybe on the door.
It is amazing what a GOOD hand-plane can do.
I recently built-up a counter-top. To even the edges, I turned to my large Stanley hand-plane, even though I have a power-plane.
If you must buy a power-plane: I was asked to review a plane (in return for free product). Home Depot's WEN 8 Amp 4-3/8". Model # 6534 ($59). It cuts well, maybe not as precise as a high-buck tool, seems bigger than it needs to be, but never strained. I have some 23" wide pine slabs so I may get some use from it. They also have a 6 Amp 3-1/4" ($43) which is more reasonable for joists and doors. The blades are "not resharpenable"; you can buy them from Wen but if you are really whacking wood (bigger than a few doors) this may not be the way to go. Not saying you should buy it; but if you need a light-use plane this is fair value for money.
I doubt you want a power plane on sashes.
Maybe on the door.
It is amazing what a GOOD hand-plane can do.
I recently built-up a counter-top. To even the edges, I turned to my large Stanley hand-plane, even though I have a power-plane.
If you must buy a power-plane: I was asked to review a plane (in return for free product). Home Depot's WEN 8 Amp 4-3/8". Model # 6534 ($59). It cuts well, maybe not as precise as a high-buck tool, seems bigger than it needs to be, but never strained. I have some 23" wide pine slabs so I may get some use from it. They also have a 6 Amp 3-1/4" ($43) which is more reasonable for joists and doors. The blades are "not resharpenable"; you can buy them from Wen but if you are really whacking wood (bigger than a few doors) this may not be the way to go. Not saying you should buy it; but if you need a light-use plane this is fair value for money.
real men remove paint with a torch
hand rasp-plane - Surform
OK for small jobs where perfect finish isn't needed
hand rasp-plane - Surform
OK for small jobs where perfect finish isn't needed
Where does the door stick (side or top)? Is the margin even on both sides of the door? Sometimes you can adjust a door by throwing the hinges one way or the other.
One more vote for a hand plane. A block plane, 6" or smaller, is convenient for this. Cheap planes are garbage, Stanley contractor grade is decent, premium stuff is available for big spenders.
I have a Makita power plane that is available on Amazon for $150 (#KPO800K) it has adjustable depth of cut in 1/64" increments. You can also find one used for half of that or so. I used it to fit all of the doors in my house. You will want to first masking tape the outer faces of the door adjacent to the edges and measure/mark the areas that need material removed. The best time to do this is in summer when humidity is highest...if you do it in winter and get a good fit you're likely to have interference in summer when humidity causes the wood to swell. In summer conditions I would shoot for 1/16" to 3/32" clearance to the door frame.
Yeah, but if you buy a good hand plane it will only last a hundred and fifty years or so....
I think of new metal planes as more like "kits" than products that are usable out of the box. The last time I bought one, it took a couple of hours to flatten the sole, sharpen the blade and breaker, and adjust the throat. Trying to use one that hasn't been tuned will be frustrating. How about a sanding block? Not as fast as a tuned up hand plane, but the learning curve is much shorter, and less likely to cause an "oh sh*t" moment than a power plane.
"Shaves everything but your beard."
Now sometimes easier to find in car-parts, next to the Bondo.
While Stanley (who bought the rights), and others, still push them to woodworkers, the stores favor sexier high-markup tools (like the power plane). OTOH the auto-body fixers want something that just works, cuts without gouging or clogging. My NAPA has a better selection than my Home Depot.
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