I got a Planet Audio 4000.1D that had the power supply burnt but replaced all the 3205 and all 47ohm resistors and 4 of the smoothing Caps next to the speaker connection and all is good to go.
All the output FETS were good. Tested with Oscilloscope and everything is working.
Power at idle is 1.280v
All FETS are running warm not hot.
Turned all pots and switches back and forth over 100 times with no change to audio output.
Made sure my audio input and speaker worked.
Tested all transistors and Diodes on-board with multimeter set on Diode and to the best of my knowledge they all checked good.
Tested the 3w resistors on-board R25 and R26 but had Caps so couldn't get a reading. Lifted one leg and tested well.
I only have less than a year of repairing car amplifiers and can fix most but these with power and output working 100% but no audio output gives me the most trouble. I read Perry Babin Tutorial but he has so much info it's hard to remember it all. I think I just need to read it from start to finish 3 or 4 times.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
All the output FETS were good. Tested with Oscilloscope and everything is working.
Power at idle is 1.280v
All FETS are running warm not hot.
Turned all pots and switches back and forth over 100 times with no change to audio output.
Made sure my audio input and speaker worked.
Tested all transistors and Diodes on-board with multimeter set on Diode and to the best of my knowledge they all checked good.
Tested the 3w resistors on-board R25 and R26 but had Caps so couldn't get a reading. Lifted one leg and tested well.
I only have less than a year of repairing car amplifiers and can fix most but these with power and output working 100% but no audio output gives me the most trouble. I read Perry Babin Tutorial but he has so much info it's hard to remember it all. I think I just need to read it from start to finish 3 or 4 times.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
This appears to be a 'Type 2' amp.
Does the driver board have the Q124/125 that are so problematic are does it use the Boss/soundstream numbering scheme?
Does the driver board have the Q124/125 that are so problematic are does it use the Boss/soundstream numbering scheme?
I don't know what you mean by "rail-rail oscillation"?
I did check the thermal and Q35 and Q36 was locked on 111.0 Degree Fahrenheit.
I did check the thermal and Q35 and Q36 was locked on 111.0 Degree Fahrenheit.
Click CDTS in the quick links menu. Then click #2 in the menu on the CDTS (class D troubleshooting) page. Read that section.
This is a self-oscillating amp so you can expect the frequency to vary, that said, 511k is a bit low but not causing your problem.
Do you see audio on the input to the driver board (pins 1 and 2 from the RCA end of the amp)?
Do you see audio on the input to the driver board (pins 1 and 2 from the RCA end of the amp)?
Sorry it's taken so long, I got my daughter her first car and I had to fix little things and get inspection ,tags and transfer title.
I tested for audio on all pins of the driver board and got nothing.
When I disconnect the power I get a pop from the speakers. I should have mentioned that at the start but just slipped my mind.
I have all FET clapped down on a rectangle aluminum bar and everything stays cool.
Thanks
I tested for audio on all pins of the driver board and got nothing.
When I disconnect the power I get a pop from the speakers. I should have mentioned that at the start but just slipped my mind.
I have all FET clapped down on a rectangle aluminum bar and everything stays cool.
Thanks
Do you have audio on the output of the op-amp that is feeding the audio input of the driver board?
Do you have ±15 on the op-amps?
If so, follow the signal from the RCA jacks through the op-amps to see where you lose signal. There are 3 diagrams on the type 2 page. One should be close enough to be of some help.
If so, follow the signal from the RCA jacks through the op-amps to see where you lose signal. There are 3 diagrams on the type 2 page. One should be close enough to be of some help.