Hello to all
I heard that the OEM op-amps of the Pioneer PD93 are not really good and the people replace them. It is true?? What is the difference please?? I need education about op-amps please
Thanks and best regards
I heard that the OEM op-amps of the Pioneer PD93 are not really good and the people replace them. It is true?? What is the difference please?? I need education about op-amps please
Thanks and best regards
You would need to mention what type is used and if it is SMD or DIP. Secondly there are as many opamp types as there are opinions which one is best. Thirdly, not every type can be used for every function. You would need to search for a service manual or a schematic too as replacing stuff just like that (i.e. "just doing something") is not the way to go as performance may be less good.
The industry chooses cheapest in many cases so replacing them might be beneficial. You see, this means hundreds of threads here on opamps 🙂
This device is from the early nineties so very old. It may require a total recap and the fitting of a low jitter clock too to perform like todays cheap streamers. This may cost so much money/time and this may be more than the cost of a modern device that may sound better while offering more useful features.... Let alone if the laser wears out or is already worn out... Best tip is to have a spare laser for old CD stuff as that is a showstopper.
The industry chooses cheapest in many cases so replacing them might be beneficial. You see, this means hundreds of threads here on opamps 🙂
This device is from the early nineties so very old. It may require a total recap and the fitting of a low jitter clock too to perform like todays cheap streamers. This may cost so much money/time and this may be more than the cost of a modern device that may sound better while offering more useful features.... Let alone if the laser wears out or is already worn out... Best tip is to have a spare laser for old CD stuff as that is a showstopper.
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Thank you Jean-Paul
The type used is DIP. The op amps used is:
6 x OPA134PA
2 x OPA2134PA
And the people install a socket with gold pins to easy change in the future
Thanks and best regards
The type used is DIP. The op amps used is:
6 x OPA134PA
2 x OPA2134PA
And the people install a socket with gold pins to easy change in the future
Thanks and best regards
Those opamps are EXCELLENT performers. It's impressive that they used gold-pinned sockets! I definitely would NOT change them. Just FYI, OPA2134s are ~ $5 APIECE nowadays!
Thank you. I heard that replace for:
6 x JRC 5534DD instead OPA134PA
2 x JRC 5532DD instead OPA2134PA
The gold pins socket dont comes with the player, the people intall to replace more quickly
6 x JRC 5534DD instead OPA134PA
2 x JRC 5532DD instead OPA2134PA
The gold pins socket dont comes with the player, the people intall to replace more quickly
The OPA devices are FET input while the JRC's (or NE's which are more commonly available) are bjt.
The 5534 is not unity gain stable and so that would definitely not be a good choice unless you could make a proper determination as to its suitability.
You need to look at what each device does before randomly swapping them.
The 5534 is not unity gain stable and so that would definitely not be a good choice unless you could make a proper determination as to its suitability.
You need to look at what each device does before randomly swapping them.
I found the thread from AudioKarma:
Pioneer PD-93 Elite CDP - do they still make them like this (w/nudies) | Audiokarma Home Audio Stereo Discussion Forums
Pioneer PD-93 Elite CDP - do they still make them like this (w/nudies) | Audiokarma Home Audio Stereo Discussion Forums
Looking at the circuit and there are parts fitted to allow the 5534 to work correctly. These are primarily the 22pF caps fitted between pins 5 and 8.
Were they removed when the OPA134's were fitted?
While swapping opamps is often trouble free there is always the exception to the rule.
Have a look at this which coincidently used 5534's:
Swapping Op-Amps... you have checked to see it's stable haven't you ?
Hi the opamps already have been replaced it seems. So you don't need to do anything as these are very good. Mooly asks exactly the right questions in post #10!
I would replace the output caps for large value film caps that fit. Like usual Wima MKS2-XL comes to the rescue. Also I recall having the feedback path changed of the last opamps but I forgot the results. Muting done with a relay the right way in 1993....even in 2021 too modern for some!
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Thank you Mooly appreciated!!
I dont know if the guy remove the 22pF caps
Wow great post that you showed me thank you
I learn that the first thing to do its test the device (I dont have one but I prefer to learn about before)
Thanks to all for your help!!!
Best regards
I dont know if the guy remove the 22pF caps
Wow great post that you showed me thank you
I learn that the first thing to do its test the device (I dont have one but I prefer to learn about before)
Thanks to all for your help!!!
Best regards
Thank you, yes Mooly open my mind!!
I learn that the first thing to do its test the device!!
The advice on various forums was that the 2134 is a better chip than the 4558 and 5532, so to go back was odd...
Give the unit a good cleaning, inspect the PCB, clean up the solder flux, check all capacitors.
After that check all the stage wise voltages and compare with the service manual, correct whatever is faulty.
Enjoy the music after that.
Give the unit a good cleaning, inspect the PCB, clean up the solder flux, check all capacitors.
After that check all the stage wise voltages and compare with the service manual, correct whatever is faulty.
Enjoy the music after that.
Your welcome 🙂
If you retain the OPA's then you need to visually look and see if the caps are still fitted or not.