Hey Dave, would you mind elaborating on this?
Start over with quality wood. The bracing you can put in and the more robust box construction. Braces can be put into an existing box but not as effective, and it won’t overcome the particle board. Stuffing too, wire too. Things can be done tot he drivers as well.
Also this, in which way do domes play differently and what way can i account for this in eventual alterations to the network?
First i am not a big fan of domes. A cone has different dispersion, can usually go lower, and often are much easier to maintain quality.
dave
Best leave the super tweeter alone
And possibly worth more than the entire loudspeaker.
dave
Things can be done tot he drivers as well.
Do you mean like this, Dave?
You could go crazy with full EnABL, but there are tweaks that are independent of the full treatment.
Mostly i was thinking Ductseal on the baskets and a loat of puzzlekoat on the woofer. Maybe the tweeter as well.
dave
Mostly i was thinking Ductseal on the baskets and a loat of puzzlekoat on the woofer. Maybe the tweeter as well.
dave
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I have the same speakers and the same problem tweeters. I would love to know how the cheaper Dayton tweeters turn out but would buy the expensive tweeters if I must. The cost of the Pioneer copy tweeters maybe worth more than the speakers (with no sentimental value applied).Good call, thanks for the insight, i'll give the cheaper tweeters a shot and see how they turn out and compare with the one factory tweeter i have, will definitely recap the xover board if it does turn out to be NP Electrolytic, i haven't dug out the stuffing to check, it does appear , i will post updates and if it turns out nice i'll look into fashioning some sort of nice looking adapter plate, fingers crossed
A lot of stuff came up for me this year so i haven't had the time to get into it. I'll look into the Dayton ND20FA or ND28FA sometime early next year when i get back home from the holidays, i'll be glad to update you on the progress/results when i get to it if you're still interested, i'll most likely be 3d printing some form of adapter for the old tweeter opening, the design of which i'll also gladly share if it comes to it.I have the same speakers and the same problem tweeters. I would love to know how the cheaper Dayton tweeters turn out but would buy the expensive tweeters if I must. The cost of the Pioneer copy tweeters maybe worth more than the speakers (with no sentimental value applied).
I've measured HPM-100 as a whole and per driver unit. Woofer is decent, the rest is trash. Crossover design is nonexistant. Piezo film tweeters lost almost all of their sensitivity. The best option IMO would be to keep original woofer and cabinet (turned upside down for more sensible CTC distance), add freestanding ATH horn on top and make a two way.
Nearfield (~5 сm from the baffle) measurement of the woofer:
Tweeter, same conditions:
Third-party measurement for comparison:
(from https://www.mvaudiolabs.com/speakers/untamed-vintage-pioneer-hpm-100/ )
Take note how all drivers are playing together; essentially there is no crossover.
All of the above applies to HPM-40 as well.
Forget any "recommendations" from Pioneer, their HPM series was moronic. There is no design to build upon, you have to start from scratch.
Nearfield (~5 сm from the baffle) measurement of the woofer:
Tweeter, same conditions:
Third-party measurement for comparison:
(from https://www.mvaudiolabs.com/speakers/untamed-vintage-pioneer-hpm-100/ )
Take note how all drivers are playing together; essentially there is no crossover.
All of the above applies to HPM-40 as well.
Forget any "recommendations" from Pioneer, their HPM series was moronic. There is no design to build upon, you have to start from scratch.
Alternatively, drop some nice 2" fullrange in place of a tweeter, like Tectonic TEBM46, and cross low, at 500 Hz or so. This is much simpler than building a horn, but somewhat disregards Pioneer 10" midrange potential
I'll begin with the dome and take some of my own measurements, i suspected the Xover wasn't the greatest but one of my "goals" with these speakers was experimenting with biamping and DSP, thank you for the info though, i didn't think it was that bad.I've measured HPM-100 as a whole and per driver unit. Woofer is decent, the rest is trash. Crossover design is nonexistant. Piezo film tweeters lost almost all of their sensitivity. The best option IMO would be to keep original woofer and cabinet (turned upside down for more sensible CTC distance), add freestanding ATH horn on top and make a two way.
Nearfield (~5 сm from the baffle) measurement of the woofer:
View attachment 1395872
Tweeter, same conditions:
View attachment 1395876
Third-party measurement for comparison:
View attachment 1395875
(from https://www.mvaudiolabs.com/speakers/untamed-vintage-pioneer-hpm-100/ )
Take note how all drivers are playing together; essentially there is no crossover.
All of the above applies to HPM-40 as well.
Forget any "recommendations" from Pioneer, their HPM series was moronic. There is no design to build upon, you have to start from scratch.
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