I have countless experiences of running a lower impedence than an amp was designed for, since the mid 90s they would all either go into protection mode from overcurrent, or blow their fuses or heat up then go to protect or simply handle the load...
The newer 4ch generation pioneers handle 1ohm stereo 2ohm mono but give much less power than 4ohm mono, so they immediatly limit the in rush current... this is what i expected this amp to do as well...
On the bright side this channel's transistrs takes the fall and fails before any other components fail.. on the negative side it fails before overcurrent protection kicks in.....
If it fails again might replace with b1255 and d1895 designed for 12amps rather than 10amps.. 100watts rather than 80watts.... hoping it would kick in protection mode before blowing driver transistors or somthing else...
The newer 4ch generation pioneers handle 1ohm stereo 2ohm mono but give much less power than 4ohm mono, so they immediatly limit the in rush current... this is what i expected this amp to do as well...
On the bright side this channel's transistrs takes the fall and fails before any other components fail.. on the negative side it fails before overcurrent protection kicks in.....
If it fails again might replace with b1255 and d1895 designed for 12amps rather than 10amps.. 100watts rather than 80watts.... hoping it would kick in protection mode before blowing driver transistors or somthing else...
If protection circuits worked as designed, I would have been out of business 30 years ago. Protection circuits and regulator circuits are poorly designed in a great number of amplifiers.
Many of the Japanese amps are designed to be perfectly reliable when driven into the loads specified in their owner's manuals. To 'over-design' them would make them un-sellable for their markets.
Many of the Japanese amps are designed to be perfectly reliable when driven into the loads specified in their owner's manuals. To 'over-design' them would make them un-sellable for their markets.
Well good news, 2 days running the 2 12" dual 4ohm subs at a parralel series 4ohm total impdence all good as its suposed to be i guess, just bugs me to "know" if i run a 2ohm bridge load that its gona burn out the tranies instead of protection mode... gotta learn to let go ignore and run the dam thing as per design/manual suggests.
Any tips and suggestion on how to apply a fresh new layer of thermal paste/grease? Can i bend the tranies up, apply the paste under them and bend them back down and wiggle them into place and replace the screws? Its got independant screws for each and every transistor.. or am i supposed to completly remove the properly bent transistors off the heat sink apply the paste then return them and mash em up? Im guesaing the latter is better in case screws loose tension or unscrew due to heat and vibration,
Its got transistors screwed individualy to an aluminum bar and then the bar to the heatsink...
Any tips and suggestion on how to apply a fresh new layer of thermal paste/grease? Can i bend the tranies up, apply the paste under them and bend them back down and wiggle them into place and replace the screws? Its got independant screws for each and every transistor.. or am i supposed to completly remove the properly bent transistors off the heat sink apply the paste then return them and mash em up? Im guesaing the latter is better in case screws loose tension or unscrew due to heat and vibration,
Its got transistors screwed individualy to an aluminum bar and then the bar to the heatsink...
It's probably not necessary to replace the heatsink compound if they were not lifted.
If you are going to replace the compound, you need to remove 100% of the old compound. I'd recommend removing all screws and removing the plate without bending any of the leads. The single screw cannot produce a lot of force near the leads. Stress in the leads can prevent the transistor from laying completely flat.
Apply a thin layer to the aluminum bar and to the back of the transistor instead of a thick layer to either.
If you are going to replace the compound, you need to remove 100% of the old compound. I'd recommend removing all screws and removing the plate without bending any of the leads. The single screw cannot produce a lot of force near the leads. Stress in the leads can prevent the transistor from laying completely flat.
Apply a thin layer to the aluminum bar and to the back of the transistor instead of a thick layer to either.
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