Ive got this fairly old Pioneer DVD player which I've had for about 5 years now. I really like it's sleek styling and it produces a fine picture on my 32" toshiba CRT. Im not an AV enthusiast hence I've kept this player so long as its picture is more than acceptable for me. I would even say the picture is quite fantastic and much better than I get from my SKY+ receiver.
About a year ago a slight issue started to arise. When pressing any of the front panel button's the response is very very slow. Sometimes I press an button, say for example the eject button, and nothing happens at all. I usually have to press and hold the button before the player reacts, usually with a long delay. However, the remote commands are fine and happen in an instant. Apart from this the player is still fine in every other way.
So I'm looking for help to fix this problem. Hopefully some of you may know of any possible causes might have this effect and thus suggest how to solve it? Maybe some new caps or ic's are required?
At the moment I am looking into this as a bit of a project. Im a keen DIY Hi-Fi enthusiast and have modded things and built an amp so I can solder and read a schematic. I suppose a good start would be to source a service manual for the DV-350. Its in my nature to try and improve something rather than replace it. So I'd like to look into getting a better picture and sound maybe with new caps, opamps, and low noise supplies.
Any help or ideas greatly appreciated.
About a year ago a slight issue started to arise. When pressing any of the front panel button's the response is very very slow. Sometimes I press an button, say for example the eject button, and nothing happens at all. I usually have to press and hold the button before the player reacts, usually with a long delay. However, the remote commands are fine and happen in an instant. Apart from this the player is still fine in every other way.
So I'm looking for help to fix this problem. Hopefully some of you may know of any possible causes might have this effect and thus suggest how to solve it? Maybe some new caps or ic's are required?
At the moment I am looking into this as a bit of a project. Im a keen DIY Hi-Fi enthusiast and have modded things and built an amp so I can solder and read a schematic. I suppose a good start would be to source a service manual for the DV-350. Its in my nature to try and improve something rather than replace it. So I'd like to look into getting a better picture and sound maybe with new caps, opamps, and low noise supplies.
Any help or ideas greatly appreciated.
Maybe I'll start by replacing all the lytic caps in the thing. Nothing too fancy just Panny FC's or similar cheap low ESR cap's.
If course I have had the lid off, I've had the lid of nearly every Hi-Fi or AV thing in the house! lol! Its got a dual sided PCB with mostly small SMD stuff on it. This makes it hard to reverse engineer the Audio output stage. Its not obvious which are the output caps or opamps, not to mention the local regualtion - if there is any. The whole thing might just run of a single rail for all I know. I can find out which IC is responsible for the picture and see about giving them a low noise voltage supply, probably a simple Gyrator/VBE local to the chip. Maybe taking that further by isolating its clock and improving its supply too. Also I think there might be caps on the video outputs. These might benefit from a slight upgrade. I'd take a similar approach to audio the output stage, finding the output opamp and DAC's and isolating them with a Gyrator on their supplies (or maybe a simple choke and R/C filter?).
One more thing that I fancy is to add RCA jacks so a proper RGB component cable can be used.
Any input from forum members please?
If course I have had the lid off, I've had the lid of nearly every Hi-Fi or AV thing in the house! lol! Its got a dual sided PCB with mostly small SMD stuff on it. This makes it hard to reverse engineer the Audio output stage. Its not obvious which are the output caps or opamps, not to mention the local regualtion - if there is any. The whole thing might just run of a single rail for all I know. I can find out which IC is responsible for the picture and see about giving them a low noise voltage supply, probably a simple Gyrator/VBE local to the chip. Maybe taking that further by isolating its clock and improving its supply too. Also I think there might be caps on the video outputs. These might benefit from a slight upgrade. I'd take a similar approach to audio the output stage, finding the output opamp and DAC's and isolating them with a Gyrator on their supplies (or maybe a simple choke and R/C filter?).
One more thing that I fancy is to add RCA jacks so a proper RGB component cable can be used.
Any input from forum members please?
Only 17 views since last night....boooo!
Not much interest in DVD players here then. OK that's fine. Could anyone at least help me with finding a service manual then (if that's not too much to ask) ???
I can do most of what I plan by myself anyway but not without having a service manual first.
Not much interest in DVD players here then. OK that's fine. Could anyone at least help me with finding a service manual then (if that's not too much to ask) ???
I can do most of what I plan by myself anyway but not without having a service manual first.
Is there any useful information out there?
Anyone know where I can get a service manual for my player?
Anyone know where I can get a service manual for my player?
Thanks. I take it your familiar with this kind of problem? When you say clean do you mean with some kind of contact cleaner like you would use on a pot or just a general clean up?
I went ahead with some mods last night. Using caps I already had in the parts bin...
*I replaced the 10uF DAC output caps with 4.7uF wima MKS2 (stacked film), same for the op-amp output (The opamp is a 4560 so I'll look into replacing that later).
*On the opamp supply - which is single +VE rail - I removed the small SMD (tantalum?) capacitor and replaced it with a 100nF Wima film capacitor.
*I replaced the DAC power supply decoupling caps with equivalent value 1000uF Panasonic FC and 100uF Nichicon MUSE.
*Bypassed a few other lytics with 100nF wima MKS2.
*On the RGB output I also bypassed the lytics with a 47nF wima film.
A definite improvement was achieved. Not much improvement on the picture quality but a subtle gain in the blacks was noticeable with slightly sharper definition. Sound quality is more like hi-fi now with improved detail and micro dynamics. Bass seems more natural. Theres still a slightly grey nature to the sound which I suspect may be the op amp.
The main power supply is a SMPS unit with separate wires carrying the different voltages to those parts of the circuit that require given voltage. No local regulation on the motherboard at all. Would be too tricky to add it as the MB is mostly small SMT. So Im contemplating replacing the SMPS for a linear PSU with RCRCR filtering and seperate regulators for each of the necessary voltages. Space is limited so I would only use a simple LM317 for each of the required voltages. There's plenty of available floor space in the chassis but not much internal height.
2 Clocks on the motherbaord. Probably one for video and one for the audio DAC. Maybe I'll replace these with a couple of PFM Flea's with Tent XO modules.
One other thing is the SCART output. The scart socket sits on a small daughter board with a few capacitors. This daughter board connects to the motherboard via a thin section of ribbon cable. I could easily add RGB Phono sockets and wire them to the MOBO with good coaxial wire and tack the capacitors to the back of the RCA's. Probably a good mod especially when it allows me to than use a proper RGB component cable to the TV.
I went ahead with some mods last night. Using caps I already had in the parts bin...
*I replaced the 10uF DAC output caps with 4.7uF wima MKS2 (stacked film), same for the op-amp output (The opamp is a 4560 so I'll look into replacing that later).
*On the opamp supply - which is single +VE rail - I removed the small SMD (tantalum?) capacitor and replaced it with a 100nF Wima film capacitor.
*I replaced the DAC power supply decoupling caps with equivalent value 1000uF Panasonic FC and 100uF Nichicon MUSE.
*Bypassed a few other lytics with 100nF wima MKS2.
*On the RGB output I also bypassed the lytics with a 47nF wima film.
A definite improvement was achieved. Not much improvement on the picture quality but a subtle gain in the blacks was noticeable with slightly sharper definition. Sound quality is more like hi-fi now with improved detail and micro dynamics. Bass seems more natural. Theres still a slightly grey nature to the sound which I suspect may be the op amp.
The main power supply is a SMPS unit with separate wires carrying the different voltages to those parts of the circuit that require given voltage. No local regulation on the motherboard at all. Would be too tricky to add it as the MB is mostly small SMT. So Im contemplating replacing the SMPS for a linear PSU with RCRCR filtering and seperate regulators for each of the necessary voltages. Space is limited so I would only use a simple LM317 for each of the required voltages. There's plenty of available floor space in the chassis but not much internal height.
2 Clocks on the motherbaord. Probably one for video and one for the audio DAC. Maybe I'll replace these with a couple of PFM Flea's with Tent XO modules.
One other thing is the SCART output. The scart socket sits on a small daughter board with a few capacitors. This daughter board connects to the motherboard via a thin section of ribbon cable. I could easily add RGB Phono sockets and wire them to the MOBO with good coaxial wire and tack the capacitors to the back of the RCA's. Probably a good mod especially when it allows me to than use a proper RGB component cable to the TV.
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