What would you pick and why?
Primarily music listening, no sub, floor standing type speaker.
I think I like the orange one.
BTW, if you read my other thread, these t/s specs are the average of my 4 measurements, plus PE's tested numbers, plus the numbers from here, http://www.ratch-h.com/ashley.html .
Primarily music listening, no sub, floor standing type speaker.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I think I like the orange one.
BTW, if you read my other thread, these t/s specs are the average of my 4 measurements, plus PE's tested numbers, plus the numbers from here, http://www.ratch-h.com/ashley.html .
I like yellow. Don't like the sound of ports, esspecially overwhelming ones. I decided to design my speakers according to the flat yellow line except one or two Hz lower. Maybe this wasn't much help.
officeboy said:
1) Your results look too good. Something looks wrong.
2) Even the yellow, which is your most damped alignment, would sound too boomy with room reponse added in.
So something like yellow, but with a more even slope down into the 20hz range.
No worries about bass loss due to baffle step?
No worries about bass loss due to baffle step?
I agree that you should go with the one that gives you the flattest FR with a nice rolloff. However, I'm really questioning those numbers. Especially the Fs and the Vas. I would guess that the Fs is closer to 40-45 Hz and the Vas is ~57 liter.
Maybe a little more background would be good here.
This is a rework of the Dayton 8 design, The primary purpose is to have good sounding speakers, to increase the SAF factor by decreasing the size of the enclosure, and to learn something in the middle.
On the chart, the Blue line is WyaneJ's recommendations for a box, the white is Dave Tenney's, the Yellow is what WinISD defaults to as the recommendation, the Green is QB3 (quasi-butterworth from Speaker workshop), and the orange is BB4 from SW as well.
These are Dayton 8" drivers, all specs are after a 24hr break in.
They do deviate quite a bit from PE's published numbers.
I tested 4, and 2 came from that other site linked in my first post.
PE's tested Fs is actually 29.3Hz, and a Vas of 2.04cu.ft
I'm also trying to keep the size of the enclosure down a bit. 4cuft is pretty large, and I'd like to keep it between 2 and 3 if I could.
This is a rework of the Dayton 8 design, The primary purpose is to have good sounding speakers, to increase the SAF factor by decreasing the size of the enclosure, and to learn something in the middle.
On the chart, the Blue line is WyaneJ's recommendations for a box, the white is Dave Tenney's, the Yellow is what WinISD defaults to as the recommendation, the Green is QB3 (quasi-butterworth from Speaker workshop), and the orange is BB4 from SW as well.
These are Dayton 8" drivers, all specs are after a 24hr break in.
They do deviate quite a bit from PE's published numbers.
I tested 4, and 2 came from that other site linked in my first post.
PE's tested Fs is actually 29.3Hz, and a Vas of 2.04cu.ft
I'm also trying to keep the size of the enclosure down a bit. 4cuft is pretty large, and I'd like to keep it between 2 and 3 if I could.
Code:
Driver A Driver B Driver C Driver D Ash 1 Ash 2 My Avg
31.317 32.84 34.863 32.892 37.7 41.64 Fs 35.20866667
1.123 1.347 1.269 1.333 1.48 1.151 Vas 1.283833333
0.424 0.441 0.501 0.445 0.479 0.517 Qts 0.467833333
2.762 3.195 3.586 3.351 3.89 2.844 Qms 3.271333333
0.5 0.511 0.582 0.514 0.546 0.597 Qes 0.541666667
0.57 0.55 0.575 0.589 Le 0.571
1.179 1.203 1.225 1.228 L1 1.20875
43.559 48.891 44.2 44.353 R1 45.25075
Something is wrong here, this don't look right to me, what Woofer are you using, the ones on the link had a Vas of 41L and a Q of .5, which should make your box too big.
Are these the Dayton 8" #295-310?
If so I'd do a 60L tuned to 28Hz with a 4" port.
Are these the Dayton 8" #295-310?
If so I'd do a 60L tuned to 28Hz with a 4" port.
They are the 295-310
41L is 1.4cuft, probably the driver listed ash1.
And a 4" vent at 28hz is 17" long, that’s pretty long, any problems making that a 3" (makes it 9" long)
Here are the 2 suggestions so far.
41L is 1.4cuft, probably the driver listed ash1.
And a 4" vent at 28hz is 17" long, that’s pretty long, any problems making that a 3" (makes it 9" long)
Here are the 2 suggestions so far.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
officeboy said:
If your numbers are good, that'll be great bass; F3 at 30Hz, and F10 just under 20Hz.
I use Brian Steele's spreadsheet at diysubwoofers.org to validate port size for noise issues. Maybe somebody here knows the underlying equations?
BTW, kudos on the project. I had considered the Dayton8, but from Dave Tenney's writeup I sort of guessed that the design was unrefined. You're pursuing something that has great potential as *the* best beginner's project.
A 3" port shouldn't be a problem. I doubt there'd be significant port noise. The orange graph looks better to me.
This is the response curve for Wilson Audio WATT Puppy 6. I say go for original orange:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I think 2.5 Cuft (about 70L) is going to be just about right for the enclosure size, and this gives me quite a good chance to build the enclosures, and then test different ports, and see how they all sound, and I still have a large range available for tuning.
Anyone see any problems with having 2 2.5-inch ports? One centered on the tweeter on the middle of the back. And the other very near the floor on the front? Or should I just stick with a single 3 or 4 inch.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Anyone see any problems with having 2 2.5-inch ports? One centered on the tweeter on the middle of the back. And the other very near the floor on the front? Or should I just stick with a single 3 or 4 inch.
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