Hello! I just got mono amp from my friend. JVCKENWOOD Nederland B.V. | Amplifiers > KAC-6104D
200w rms x 4 ohm or 300w rms x 2 ohm. Which sub i should get? How much RMS it should have? I mean i need a number of min and max RMS that will be best for my amp. Should i stick with the same brand like kenwood? I found some subs i really like 1.- db1212 - Car Subwoofers | Polk Audio which has 360rms x 2 ohm and 2.- http://www.alpine-europe.com/p/Products/boxed-subwoofer378/sbe-1244br 200rms x 4 ohm which i think can stack with my amp, i just need to know what is the limit of rms i can have in my sub for my amp. Im ready to pay 250-350 dollars. Thx again for your respond.
200w rms x 4 ohm or 300w rms x 2 ohm. Which sub i should get? How much RMS it should have? I mean i need a number of min and max RMS that will be best for my amp. Should i stick with the same brand like kenwood? I found some subs i really like 1.- db1212 - Car Subwoofers | Polk Audio which has 360rms x 2 ohm and 2.- http://www.alpine-europe.com/p/Products/boxed-subwoofer378/sbe-1244br 200rms x 4 ohm which i think can stack with my amp, i just need to know what is the limit of rms i can have in my sub for my amp. Im ready to pay 250-350 dollars. Thx again for your respond.
Any driver should do. Same brand is meaningless as electrons don't read labels. This amp is suitable to drive any car sub. Speakers don't read the amp specifications either. Polk and Alpine are well respected among many others.
What is far more important is the cabinet it will be going into. A sub woofer is a system; crossover, equalizer, amplifier, driver, cabinet and environment. I am not up on car subs as I quit that game 30 years ago. Have you called a re-seller like Crutchfield for what they recommend?
What is far more important is the cabinet it will be going into. A sub woofer is a system; crossover, equalizer, amplifier, driver, cabinet and environment. I am not up on car subs as I quit that game 30 years ago. Have you called a re-seller like Crutchfield for what they recommend?
But still i would want to know what RMS will be the best for this one, because i cant find sub i like that would have exactly 200RMS, so is there any limit? because if i understand it correctly if i get double power rms sub it wont work on 100% and it may work same as 200rms w sub
I am trying to give you a hint. It does not matter. You don;t understand it correctly.
An amplifier can produce only so much power. For a given voltage, so many amps. (Amplifiers are generally voltage sources.) The speaker RMS is the amount of power you can shove into it before the cone comes flying out of the basket or the voice coil melts. What matters is if you have sufficient power to produce the SPL peaks cleanly you desire. You will severally damage your hearing using more than 20 or so Watts, so don't worry about it.
BTW, amp power ratings are now pretty much fictitious anyway.
An amplifier can produce only so much power. For a given voltage, so many amps. (Amplifiers are generally voltage sources.) The speaker RMS is the amount of power you can shove into it before the cone comes flying out of the basket or the voice coil melts. What matters is if you have sufficient power to produce the SPL peaks cleanly you desire. You will severally damage your hearing using more than 20 or so Watts, so don't worry about it.
BTW, amp power ratings are now pretty much fictitious anyway.
I agree with the last, so what u mean is i should just look for sub that wont be less than 200 rms so it wont explode? well these 2 examples of subs i gave, do they good for my amp? What time of subs u would recommend me to install? Maybe i should look for sub with double elements?
Hi,
for the amp you mentioned, it can do 300W@2ohms that too at 14.4V. your car should have atleast a 100 amp. alternator, and your power wiring should be atleast 4 SWG otherwise you won't get the best out of your system.
for the subwoofer i would advice you to go with this : PUNCH Subwoofers - P2D4-12 - Rockford Fosgate®
these are 4ohm DVC subs, rated at 400W rms. Rockford subs have good tonal quality and are well made too. you can use Bass Box Pro or Winisd to design your box. a properly tuned box could produce good spl levels. tune the box within 30-38Hz and you are good.
Also these are within your budget.
Cheers !!!
Aniket
for the amp you mentioned, it can do 300W@2ohms that too at 14.4V. your car should have atleast a 100 amp. alternator, and your power wiring should be atleast 4 SWG otherwise you won't get the best out of your system.
for the subwoofer i would advice you to go with this : PUNCH Subwoofers - P2D4-12 - Rockford Fosgate®
these are 4ohm DVC subs, rated at 400W rms. Rockford subs have good tonal quality and are well made too. you can use Bass Box Pro or Winisd to design your box. a properly tuned box could produce good spl levels. tune the box within 30-38Hz and you are good.
Also these are within your budget.
Cheers !!!
Aniket
Read your car service manual.
Maybe need an extra battery as well.
Then some extra wiring fed from a new fuse board/box.
Maybe need an extra battery as well.
Then some extra wiring fed from a new fuse board/box.
Most modern cars have about 130A alternators. BUT, that is at peak. Tooling along at 1500 RPM that 130A may be producing 30 or 40A. You car is using quite a bit of that.
Now, as the amp load is dynamic, a second battery should be sufficient. You are not pulling 15A all the time. That is peak. Not knowing your car, sometimes one can fit a much larger one in the original place. If you have an old car like my TVR, the 27A alternator could not even run the lights, wipers and defroster. ( I put in an 80A one so I could drive at night in the rain).
You pick a speaker that has the quality you need. RMS ratings are just about irrelevant. If you learn to use a program like WinISD, you can see a plot for the potential SPL over frequency for the RMS rating of the driver in the box you design. Look at the drivers efficiency. You will see it will produce something like 87 dB at ONE Watt. Two watts is 90 dB. By about 20 Watts, you are in the serious permanent hearing damage region if it was continuous. It is not. See why the drivers RMS ratings are not relevant to you?
I know this may be a bit confusing. Speaker design is actually a cross between several engineering fields; mechanical and electrical engineering, acoustics, psycho-acoustics and making it pleasing in the real world, Industrial design. Unless you are prepared to start with freshman physics, please take the advice given above and quit worrying about things you do not yet understand. You have an amp designed to be put in a car. Buy a woofer designed to be put in a car. ( The Rockford is not a bad choice) The amp company and the speaker company understand this. Let them do their job. I would actually recommend you take your car and amp to a shop that specializes in this and let them do their work. It is not cheap, but you are paying for their knowledge and experience.
Now, as the amp load is dynamic, a second battery should be sufficient. You are not pulling 15A all the time. That is peak. Not knowing your car, sometimes one can fit a much larger one in the original place. If you have an old car like my TVR, the 27A alternator could not even run the lights, wipers and defroster. ( I put in an 80A one so I could drive at night in the rain).
You pick a speaker that has the quality you need. RMS ratings are just about irrelevant. If you learn to use a program like WinISD, you can see a plot for the potential SPL over frequency for the RMS rating of the driver in the box you design. Look at the drivers efficiency. You will see it will produce something like 87 dB at ONE Watt. Two watts is 90 dB. By about 20 Watts, you are in the serious permanent hearing damage region if it was continuous. It is not. See why the drivers RMS ratings are not relevant to you?
I know this may be a bit confusing. Speaker design is actually a cross between several engineering fields; mechanical and electrical engineering, acoustics, psycho-acoustics and making it pleasing in the real world, Industrial design. Unless you are prepared to start with freshman physics, please take the advice given above and quit worrying about things you do not yet understand. You have an amp designed to be put in a car. Buy a woofer designed to be put in a car. ( The Rockford is not a bad choice) The amp company and the speaker company understand this. Let them do their job. I would actually recommend you take your car and amp to a shop that specializes in this and let them do their work. It is not cheap, but you are paying for their knowledge and experience.
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