Proposed 6072A Line amp
Some of my ideas on how to finish my amp. So far I build a prototype with junkparts, but am planning on how to build it and lay-out the parts. The top and rear will be from black chromed steel plate, with a satin finish. The sides possibly from a darker type of wood, wild cherry maybe.
Please advice on improvements.
Top:
Some of my ideas on how to finish my amp. So far I build a prototype with junkparts, but am planning on how to build it and lay-out the parts. The top and rear will be from black chromed steel plate, with a satin finish. The sides possibly from a darker type of wood, wild cherry maybe.
Please advice on improvements.
Top:
Attachments
Won't you want more than one input? Do the components you're going to connect between the valves mean that they need to be spaced that far apart? You won't be able to see the volume setting when seated. A steel top plate might couple the leakage field from the mains transformer into the signal valves. They're all fairly minor points.
Hi,
Since you ask...
If possible I'd advise to mount the RCAs on the front, this way they and the attached interconnects:
a) don't disturb the nice look of the pre.
b) put much less strain on the cables.
Other than that it looks very good.
Cheers,😉
Since you ask...
If possible I'd advise to mount the RCAs on the front, this way they and the attached interconnects:
a) don't disturb the nice look of the pre.
b) put much less strain on the cables.
Other than that it looks very good.
Cheers,😉
EC8010 said:
What is better option for top ?
Thanx for other advice.
fdegrove said:
Good point, Frank
You want something conductive, so that means a metal. You don't want it to be magnetic, so that excludes most steels (some stainless steel is non-magnetic, but it's tough to work). Aluminium is the most popular choice, followed by copper, and silver for the crazies.
Hi,
I've used 3 mm thick circuit board for that, copperfoil side facing upwards, grounded and finished with sprayed on varnish.
Looks good, sounds good and is cheap...
If it needs to support somme heavy stuff such as xformers you may need to reinforce it from underneath to prevent sagging.
Cheers,😉
I've used 3 mm thick circuit board for that, copperfoil side facing upwards, grounded and finished with sprayed on varnish.
Looks good, sounds good and is cheap...
If it needs to support somme heavy stuff such as xformers you may need to reinforce it from underneath to prevent sagging.
Cheers,😉
A run on 3mm copper-clad board
Interesting idea, makes the "metalwork" much easier. Alternatively, you could use it foil side down, and use the foil as a ground plane.
fdegrove said:
Interesting idea, makes the "metalwork" much easier. Alternatively, you could use it foil side down, and use the foil as a ground plane.
Hi,
Quite often I do use the copperfoil as a groundplane with the copperfoil facing the outside world.
As I always use starearthing all it takes is a copper screw and some soldering lugs on the other side. (inside the chassis)
Cheers,😉
Quite often I do use the copperfoil as a groundplane with the copperfoil facing the outside world.
As I always use starearthing all it takes is a copper screw and some soldering lugs on the other side. (inside the chassis)
Cheers,😉
Hi,
Very nice stuff.
BTW, the 6P3P is the Chinese equivalent of the 6L6 if I'm not mistaken.
Cheers,😉
Very nice stuff.
BTW, the 6P3P is the Chinese equivalent of the 6L6 if I'm not mistaken.
Cheers,😉
Thank Frank . Yes,6p3p's parameter that is is close to 6L6G .
China gives birth to a lot of right vacuums tube , but also price is cheap . 😉
This is my 6P3P SE amp ,12AT7 is drive 6P3P.
China gives birth to a lot of right vacuums tube , but also price is cheap . 😉
This is my 6P3P SE amp ,12AT7 is drive 6P3P.
