I was having some problems with the high pass / low pass switch (seems to be the culprit) not sending a signal to the front right speaker and opened up the amp to try and find the problem. I figured it was just going to be a cracked solder joint as pushing on the crossover would fix the problem temporarily. I couldn't find any burn points or cracked solder joints, and after skimming the net some more it seems a dirty switch is the culprit.
But in any case, after leaving the amp on a worktable a friend tried to help by looking for any burn locations and tried to unscrew one of the connectors on the amp and seemingly snapped it. I haven't dealt with this type of connector before and am wondering if anyone can ID it for me and tell me how hard it is to repair? If the picture doesn't go though it looks like a phillips head plastic head and there is a conductive ring underneath. Do I need to desolder it out or is there a way to fit a new 'phillips' section to fix this? Sorry for the poor picture, I stole this one from the net. The white section is now out and I can't figure out a way to reseat it, if that is even possible. Thanks!
But in any case, after leaving the amp on a worktable a friend tried to help by looking for any burn locations and tried to unscrew one of the connectors on the amp and seemingly snapped it. I haven't dealt with this type of connector before and am wondering if anyone can ID it for me and tell me how hard it is to repair? If the picture doesn't go though it looks like a phillips head plastic head and there is a conductive ring underneath. Do I need to desolder it out or is there a way to fit a new 'phillips' section to fix this? Sorry for the poor picture, I stole this one from the net. The white section is now out and I can't figure out a way to reseat it, if that is even possible. Thanks!
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That is a pot usually used for the bias in the amp. What is the board location of the pot it should have a letter and a number next to it printed on the board. Also there should be some markings on the pot itself if there is any markings on it post thoose also. At this point if he turned it fully clockwise and snapped it off and that pot is being used for the bias DO NOT POWER the amp up. It will cause it to draw excessive current and blow the outputs And could cause Alot of damage to the amp
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There are 5 of those in that amp. 4 of them are channel bias adjustment pots and they are located one in each channel near the sink. < in a row under the crossover board on the main board >.
Once any of these are replace you might be able to ball park the adjustment by gauging the others but if your just a tiny bit too high the amp will overheat and shutdown or worse self destruct under load conditions. Getting a trained tech to set it will avoid all of this.
The other one is in the power supply, and its use is a factory adjustment. Adjusting it is another matter that requires a full test bench to test the amp while you adjust it. I know of no magic number to adjust this to as its set point is different on every amp.
If the wiper is damaged you can still measure its value off the two other legs and replace it as per spec value. But here again unless you have set these amps up on a bench before you will most likely miss the correct set point.
PG was sold to AAMP in Florida and they still repair these. AAMP is Stinger by the way. You can google Phoenix Gold or try contacting them on the old Rodin site for factory service...Hope this helps some...🙂
Once any of these are replace you might be able to ball park the adjustment by gauging the others but if your just a tiny bit too high the amp will overheat and shutdown or worse self destruct under load conditions. Getting a trained tech to set it will avoid all of this.
The other one is in the power supply, and its use is a factory adjustment. Adjusting it is another matter that requires a full test bench to test the amp while you adjust it. I know of no magic number to adjust this to as its set point is different on every amp.
If the wiper is damaged you can still measure its value off the two other legs and replace it as per spec value. But here again unless you have set these amps up on a bench before you will most likely miss the correct set point.
PG was sold to AAMP in Florida and they still repair these. AAMP is Stinger by the way. You can google Phoenix Gold or try contacting them on the old Rodin site for factory service...Hope this helps some...🙂
Thanks for all the advice. The one in question is probably the power supply as it's the one below the 4 pots in a row and closer to the power regulation circuit. Looks like I'm going to have to send this amp in vs trying to fix it on my own. Does anyone know a place in the San Fran Bay Area that will repair this? The amplifier works (prior to this 'adjustment') fine outside of the right front channel being cut off seemingly due to the crossover switch. Or is going with PG the best way to go? In any case I shot off an email to their support/repairs department.
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The input selector switch was always a typical culprit on these, along with crossover frequency adjustment pots. i say pots because its a stack of 8 or 10 as I recall all on a single shaft. The best way is to replace them all if trouble crops up with any of these. I also have had to replace gain pots on amps that people fiddle with too much < constantly adjust the gains> If you do this they also will give troubles, I think PG meant for them to be set and left alone😱
I sent you a PM...🙂
I sent you a PM...🙂
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