Hello Poynton & Attila,
It's not going to be easy this one.
TDA1540 http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/datasheets2/37/375579_1.pdf
Its a start. You have to get in there. I have never worked on one of these but dismantling isn't usually as bad as it looks.
Can you swap the two 1540's over. Prise them gently bit at a time each end. Do it all in one go and you WILL bend all the pins.
Can you see the output pin of the DAC ( will have to put it as an edit as havn't got it on screen
) If you can unsolder the pin of the socket on each DAC output and with two bits of wire cross link them. So that's left DAC into right "output" stage and vice versa. Would prove a lot, ie is it after or before the DAC.
Lens cleaning. You have to be gentle. I use a "pure cotton" type bud and tease the cotton out at the end so it's not to hard. I also use a proper lens fluid (Sony) but I would think a camera lens type solution would be OK. Use only a little fluid, dont wet the lens so that it drys with marks on it. Use a dry cotton bud (teased out) to polish very gently if needed.
Edit -- pin 22 is the output. Page 5 in the above link.
It's not going to be easy this one.
TDA1540 http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/datasheets2/37/375579_1.pdf
Its a start. You have to get in there. I have never worked on one of these but dismantling isn't usually as bad as it looks.
Can you swap the two 1540's over. Prise them gently bit at a time each end. Do it all in one go and you WILL bend all the pins.
Can you see the output pin of the DAC ( will have to put it as an edit as havn't got it on screen
) If you can unsolder the pin of the socket on each DAC output and with two bits of wire cross link them. So that's left DAC into right "output" stage and vice versa. Would prove a lot, ie is it after or before the DAC.Lens cleaning. You have to be gentle. I use a "pure cotton" type bud and tease the cotton out at the end so it's not to hard. I also use a proper lens fluid (Sony) but I would think a camera lens type solution would be OK. Use only a little fluid, dont wet the lens so that it drys with marks on it. Use a dry cotton bud (teased out) to polish very gently if needed.
Edit -- pin 22 is the output. Page 5 in the above link.
Ok, before dismanteling the whole unit, I would like to check the voltage at some points. Could someone tell me where I should start measuring? From the service manual I got from nikko, there is no layout for the power pcb. Or maybe I'm just to stupid to find this... I found everything else, but nothing about he power board. On top of this, I don't understand netherland
Thank you!
Thank you!
Hi,
Does it look like full manual if you know what I mean. Philips manuals are an aquired taste, many techs hate them. Can you not find a circuit with a mains transformer on it ? I still would say 99.99% that it's not a PSU issue causing just one channel to go down. Now as I am typing this I am thinking of a CD104 a neighbour had years ago. That had a weird fault, one of the NE5532's I think they were, can't remember now, was oscillating/unstable etc causing problem on one channel. There was something weird with the decoupling I seem to remember.
Have you got in it yet ?
Does it look like full manual if you know what I mean. Philips manuals are an aquired taste, many techs hate them. Can you not find a circuit with a mains transformer on it ? I still would say 99.99% that it's not a PSU issue causing just one channel to go down. Now as I am typing this I am thinking of a CD104 a neighbour had years ago. That had a weird fault, one of the NE5532's I think they were, can't remember now, was oscillating/unstable etc causing problem on one channel. There was something weird with the decoupling I seem to remember.
Have you got in it yet ?
Ok, I read on a german forum from a cd202 that had a similar problem. It had distortion and this was caused by the -18 volt stabilisator (not sure for the english name on this one!) outputing only -13.8, due to 2 defective caps.
For the manual: I don't know if it is complete! It's my first philips manual! I have all diagram for all boards, the whole components list, how to tune the laser unit (or at least I think so, it's netherlands, and I just can understand 1 or 2 words...), but I can't find anything about the power board!
I'm lacking time for now, that's why I wanted to check the power outputs. This is just a matter of minutes and not such a big task as dismanteling the whole unit!
As soon as I have a little bit time, I'll try to swap both 1540 to see if there is a difference!
I also have to check the power suply on all IC's... So I'll maybe be able to identify a defective solder joint or component in the right channel/path...
And I have to admit, I don't like the manual!
Greetings!
For the manual: I don't know if it is complete! It's my first philips manual! I have all diagram for all boards, the whole components list, how to tune the laser unit (or at least I think so, it's netherlands, and I just can understand 1 or 2 words...), but I can't find anything about the power board!
I'm lacking time for now, that's why I wanted to check the power outputs. This is just a matter of minutes and not such a big task as dismanteling the whole unit!
As soon as I have a little bit time, I'll try to swap both 1540 to see if there is a difference!
I also have to check the power suply on all IC's... So I'll maybe be able to identify a defective solder joint or component in the right channel/path...
And I have to admit, I don't like the manual!
Greetings!
If Nikko doesn't mind you sharing the manual, E-mail me. Will take a look. Don't understand "Netherland" at all but I am used to Philips manuals
It may be similar to the 104 I mentioned. More on that's coming back to me. A 'scope check showed a severe AC component on one of the ( negative I think ) rails on just one of the output OpAmps. This pin was fed from the main rail via a resistor (typical Philips) with no decoupling cap on that pin. It was odd. There "appeared" to be a missing 100mfd or so cap on the board. Pin 8 was decoupled but not pin 4. I seem to remember the manual too showed no cap -- it was all very weird --but like yours, it had worked perfectly for years.
Do you have a 'scope available, as that's going to be the way to fix this one.
It may be similar to the 104 I mentioned. More on that's coming back to me. A 'scope check showed a severe AC component on one of the ( negative I think ) rails on just one of the output OpAmps. This pin was fed from the main rail via a resistor (typical Philips) with no decoupling cap on that pin. It was odd. There "appeared" to be a missing 100mfd or so cap on the board. Pin 8 was decoupled but not pin 4. I seem to remember the manual too showed no cap -- it was all very weird --but like yours, it had worked perfectly for years.
Do you have a 'scope available, as that's going to be the way to fix this one.
Hello Mooly!
Yes, I can get a scope, should be no problem!
Just tell me what I'va to ceck, and where to check this!
To the SM: they wrote to check for 5V between pins A485 and A482. Saddly, as there is no diagram of the power board, I'm unable to locate these!
Will have to print the SM out, it's easier to work with as with the pdf file...
I'll email nikko to ask if it is ok to mail you the SM!
Yes, I can get a scope, should be no problem!
Just tell me what I'va to ceck, and where to check this!
To the SM: they wrote to check for 5V between pins A485 and A482. Saddly, as there is no diagram of the power board, I'm unable to locate these!
Will have to print the SM out, it's easier to work with as with the pdf file...
I'll email nikko to ask if it is ok to mail you the SM!
Found It !!!
See :-
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=32591&perpage=25&pagenumber=16
post 388
Andy
See :-
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=32591&perpage=25&pagenumber=16
post 388
Andy
Oh, before I forget! Something new from the player!
I redid all the joints from the power board (I just hope I didn't forget one!), and now I can't hear any distortion on the right channel (but that doesn't mean that there is no distortion!). But the right channel is still "more quiet" than the left one.
But no more cracking when turned on... That's a beginning!
I redid all the joints from the power board (I just hope I didn't forget one!
), and now I can't hear any distortion on the right channel (but that doesn't mean that there is no distortion!). But the right channel is still "more quiet" than the left one.But no more cracking when turned on... That's a beginning!
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