Just looking for some pointers re my CD 960. I have just got this back from my dad, as he was going to throw it out as the tray did not operate. It was mine back in the ‘90s before I changed to a Marantz CD10.
Thanks to the great info on this forum I have been able to change the four rubber belts and clean up the tray slides. The slides were somewhat sticky with traces of old grease. After changing the belts the tray goes in and out like a dream.
Started using the CD960 and it plays like a dream, all functions working, as they should do. After about a disc worth of play (say an hour) the tray refuses to open. Just nothing when the tray switch is pressed – no motor sound at all. Leave it 20 minutes or so powered off and the tray opens/closes just fine. Play another hour and the tray refuses to open, until powered off for around 20 minutes.
Any ideas of what to investigate next would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Gabriel
Thanks to the great info on this forum I have been able to change the four rubber belts and clean up the tray slides. The slides were somewhat sticky with traces of old grease. After changing the belts the tray goes in and out like a dream.
Started using the CD960 and it plays like a dream, all functions working, as they should do. After about a disc worth of play (say an hour) the tray refuses to open. Just nothing when the tray switch is pressed – no motor sound at all. Leave it 20 minutes or so powered off and the tray opens/closes just fine. Play another hour and the tray refuses to open, until powered off for around 20 minutes.
Any ideas of what to investigate next would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Gabriel
Very difficult to give anything more than general pointers on this.
I would say don't overlook the obvious. When the problem occurs check for voltage across the appropriate motor... could it be going open circuit when its warm.
Locate all the micro switches (I'm assuming it uses them for tray position) and measure the DC voltage on the system control IC (or wherever the switches go) when its working. Measure with tray in and tray out and note the readings. When it fails compare voltages.
If that is OK you can discount mechanical issues because even if the tray were glued in the motor would still receive voltage.
When it fails do all other functions operate ?
Its worth comparing all the supply voltages in working vs failed states. Could be PSU issue and failed caps ? Really needs a scope to check that.
Beyond that, and freezer spray to just drip on key components could be worthwhile.
I would say don't overlook the obvious. When the problem occurs check for voltage across the appropriate motor... could it be going open circuit when its warm.
Locate all the micro switches (I'm assuming it uses them for tray position) and measure the DC voltage on the system control IC (or wherever the switches go) when its working. Measure with tray in and tray out and note the readings. When it fails compare voltages.
If that is OK you can discount mechanical issues because even if the tray were glued in the motor would still receive voltage.
When it fails do all other functions operate ?
Its worth comparing all the supply voltages in working vs failed states. Could be PSU issue and failed caps ? Really needs a scope to check that.
Beyond that, and freezer spray to just drip on key components could be worthwhile.
probably a hot spot that results in open circuit, usually around zener diodes, voltage regulators and resistors associated with voltage regulation. easily identifiable with a can of freeze spray, or even with a naked eye.
Nick
Nick
Thank you all, I'll investigate further.
BTW, does anyone know what the proper term/name is for the threaded optical output the CD960 has, its not the usual Toslink type?
BTW, does anyone know what the proper term/name is for the threaded optical output the CD960 has, its not the usual Toslink type?
Don't know the type, but the wavelength is 800nm instead of standard 780nm.... if I can remember correctly.
Nick
Nick
In my experience with the CD960 & similar players, any faults not caused by belts & grease hardening(be sure to degrease the shafts of the gears, btw) have been caused by dying electrolytic capacitors, especially the Matsushita/Panasonic ones("M" on cap). Basically, the only way to make the player reliable is to replace any non-Nichicon caps with Nichicons. Really solid, reliable players once that's done.
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