Hello
Just recently acquired a Philips CD-101 and it sounded very good when first played. So I have modify it by changing various wires and the output cap. The result is quite pleasing as it extended the high and low range of the player...
However, I want to do more extensive modifying of this player... does anyone have any suggestion what to do next?
Also, anyone have a service manual or schematics for the player and CDM1 CDM0 laser head?
Thanks alot in advance!
Just recently acquired a Philips CD-101 and it sounded very good when first played. So I have modify it by changing various wires and the output cap. The result is quite pleasing as it extended the high and low range of the player...
However, I want to do more extensive modifying of this player... does anyone have any suggestion what to do next?
Also, anyone have a service manual or schematics for the player and CDM1 CDM0 laser head?
Thanks alot in advance!
Attachments
Sushii said:Hello
Just recently acquired a Philips CD-101 and it sounded very good when first played. So I have modify it by changing various wires and the output cap. The result is quite pleasing as it extended the high and low range of the player...
However, I want to do more extensive modifying of this player... does anyone have any suggestion what to do next?
Also, anyone have a service manual or schematics for the player and CDM1 CDM0 laser head?
Thanks alot in advance!
HI.
Replace the power supply capacitors
Replace the psu diodes with schottky ones
Andy
Hello
Any suggestion on what brand of capacitors and diodes to replace with? Also, do you have the schematics?
Any suggestion on what brand of capacitors and diodes to replace with? Also, do you have the schematics?
VanHal said:
The manual for the B&O CD-X covers most of the electronics [so I'm told]
poynton said:
The manual for the B&O CD-X covers most of the electronics [so I'm told]
CDX is a 104 in all but shape
Have replaced power supply caps with BlackGate and replaced the diodes.
Any suggestion if oscon will be good for replacing caps near the 2 TDA1540?
Could anyone experienced in CD-101 tell me which cap does what function? Sorry but I dont have the service manual... I am referring to the ones that are being circled.
Any suggestion if oscon will be good for replacing caps near the 2 TDA1540?
Could anyone experienced in CD-101 tell me which cap does what function? Sorry but I dont have the service manual... I am referring to the ones that are being circled.
Attachments
Philips CD101
hi Sushii,
looks cool without bottom board, but you have some serious suspension tweaks there as well. always used with bottom board on myself, but supported on oak cones. this is quite audibly superior to standard.will try your way as well though.
also try to replace opamps on decoder board with better, should give a freshly laundered bass. try something from AD.
great player, had mine from new years ago.
Tony
hi Sushii,
looks cool without bottom board, but you have some serious suspension tweaks there as well. always used with bottom board on myself, but supported on oak cones. this is quite audibly superior to standard.will try your way as well though.
also try to replace opamps on decoder board with better, should give a freshly laundered bass. try something from AD.
great player, had mine from new years ago.
Tony
The feet under cd player is bouncy balls cut in half, then it is copper then aluminum, then it is a roller block clone that I made.
After testing with different ways of supporting cd player, i find this settings suits CD-101 the best.
After testing with different ways of supporting cd player, i find this settings suits CD-101 the best.
I don't have this model but have the simiilar CD104. The two biggest things for me were :
1) I removed the DC blocking capcitors . My preamp is decoupled anyay.
2) I replaced the supply caps for the +12/-12 supplies to the opamps with cerafines
the caps for 1) and 2) are the four blue caps closest to the opamps.
I have kept the old NE5532's as I like their sound
1) I removed the DC blocking capcitors . My preamp is decoupled anyay.
2) I replaced the supply caps for the +12/-12 supplies to the opamps with cerafines
the caps for 1) and 2) are the four blue caps closest to the opamps.
I have kept the old NE5532's as I like their sound
Hello
Thanks for your advise however there are only 3 pcs of blue caps around the opamps...
I am guessing the 2 beside the opa are the supply caps? I am saying the left most circled ones.
Thanks for your advise however there are only 3 pcs of blue caps around the opamps...
I am guessing the 2 beside the opa are the supply caps? I am saying the left most circled ones.
Sushii said:Hello
Thanks for your advise however there are only 3 pcs of blue caps around the opamps...
I am guessing the 2 beside the opa are the supply caps? I am saying the left most circled ones.
Hard to say without the schematics. It should be possible to trace back from the RCA sockets to see which caps are in the signal path. These are worth replacing with wire links , but if your pre-amp or amp is DC coupled then this is not such a good idea. The safe solution would be to use Bblackgate bipolar caps.
The Opamp supplies are pins 4 & 8 of the NE5532. I would expect to find +/- 12 v supplies with some local caps and some ceramic bypasses). These electrolytics would be good to replace.
Change the caps from stock Philips cap to ROE caps, with bigger capacitance, 220uf from 47uf. The change in resolution, extension and deep bass is tremendous.
Opamp with similar characteristic to 5532, you can try MC33078 or OPA2227.
Also, there should be a chain of bypass cap alongside pin 12, 13, 14, 18, 19, 20, 21, 23, 24, 25. You might try to change them to MKP type, but keep their cap value.
Also, there should be a chain of bypass cap alongside pin 12, 13, 14, 18, 19, 20, 21, 23, 24, 25. You might try to change them to MKP type, but keep their cap value.
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