Phase Linear 400 Question

Status
Not open for further replies.
I have the service manual for a Carver 500 that I used to repair a 400 II, I think it's the same amp, they look the same. I can scan and PM it to you if you'd like. I'll look for it today, I'm pretty sure the display schematic and layout are in it.

Craig
 
I was going to build a new boards to make my PL400's complimentary. I intend to make it fit in the same spot as the old driver board. Updating the the input and VAS with Current sources was the second thing I started planned. The first was the horible Shunt Capacitance before the Vas.

Little rewire and i think the new design will be a lot better then the old driver board.

Ralph
 
llwhtt said:
I have the service manual for a Carver 500 that I used to repair a 400 II, I think it's the same amp, they look the same. I can scan and PM it to you if you'd like.


Originally posted by d3imlay
I have a pdf of the display schematic, board layout and theory. It's too large to post here. Anyone who wants it can email me..


Hi Craig and d3imlay

If you send it to a file hosting service, it would be useful for all of us. Try http://ifile.it/

:happy1:
 
Phase Linears

Dear Lubbie and all,

I would more than happy to design the Phase Linear drive boards.

My idea is a fully complementary drive board with full constant current sources for both diff and VAS stages, low open llop gain, soft clipping with Baker clamps etc.

The driver stage I would like to use a modified Sziklai output stage which will allow me to convert the TO-3 drivers into output devices (These amps really need more SOA capability). The drivers on the board would remain as 1 amp emitter followers, then the second driver would be an opposite sex device for both top and bottom and then the fully complementary output stage as followers. In this way the bias only has to really "see" the Vbe of the complemnetary output devices since the drivers would be "upside down" and their Vbe's are not in the thermal path.

The final drivers I would use TO-220 MJ15030/31/32/33 tyoe 8A drivers. These would have to bolted to the inside of the chassis and a small peice of aluminium would need to be bent and bolted to the chassis using the tag strip bolt. This will avoid drliing extra holes in the chassis.

I also always change the RCAs and binding posts as per my earlier post.


Let me know who is interested. I also have most of the parts at the factory so for those who do not want to be bothered with Mouser etc can purchase from me.


Regards


Steve Mantz
Zed Audio Corp.

I also do lots of Marantz and McIntoshes. My favourite are marnatz 14/15 where I gut the thing, do proper grounding and change the output stage to a conventional doublet emitter follower arrangement. more stable and better sounding.

Happy new year to all on DIY
 
Status
Not open for further replies.