I'll bet the ones you used were EXTRA shiny 😉A bigger step forward than anything else I have done costing hundreds
I'll bet the ones you used were EXTRA shiny 😉
No, but the pile of coins I have saved are 🙂
You have obviously been taken in by slick marketing. How anybody could spend 12 cents on a single capacitor is beyond my comprehension.
I'll bet the ones you used were EXTRA shiny 😉
BTW, I give a coat of Shellac (a local brand called Sheenlac) to my K73-16 axials. I don't claim that it improves the sonics, but it does improve the aesthetics - gives a vintage aircraft aluminium sheen, as well as protects the aluminium casing and end seals from humidity, oxidation, etc.
I have some of these K73-16's. Haven't used them for anything yet so maybe it's time to try them. No expectations but always willing to have some fun and see what happens. I will be trying them in a speaker crossover for the tweeter series cap.
Well worth it I found, they take a long time to burn in. I used a rig to burn a variety of caps in then did back to back tests on a valve phono and in rogers 149's crossovers. They proved to be better than all the other caps I had to hand inc mundorf silver oils.
Best were the high voltage ones.
Best were the high voltage ones.
Don't forfget to buff them up nice and shiny first so they sound better 😉it's time to try them
K73-16 and K73-11 I find sound similar.I prefer the bass from the K73-16 but I find the K73-11 sound very good also.These caps (coupling ) are going to be around for a long time in this system (JE lab El34)Clear, detailed,transparent.I'm not letting go of these.
I use 2.2uF K73-16, the size is very small compare to K74-1. K73-16 has more detail in my LM7815.
Some kind person, I wish I could remember who sent me a pair of K73-16 2.2uf caps ages ago to try out as DC blocking caps in my phono stage, I have been using Wima MKP1's.
I built another stage and decided to make use of the caps I was sent, I wasn't expecting much as they were basically a polyester cap, I have used Panasonic polyesters before and wasn't impressed.
But these caps have absolutely knocked my socks off, they are so much smoother and more detailed, if it was a fight the Wima's would be knocked out, dragged out and buried ten foot under by these caps. I just ordered a pair of Ebay to replace the Wima's in my other phono stage, these things are the best bang for your buck that I have come across.
I wish I could remember who sent them to me as I need to thank him so much.
I built another stage and decided to make use of the caps I was sent, I wasn't expecting much as they were basically a polyester cap, I have used Panasonic polyesters before and wasn't impressed.
But these caps have absolutely knocked my socks off, they are so much smoother and more detailed, if it was a fight the Wima's would be knocked out, dragged out and buried ten foot under by these caps. I just ordered a pair of Ebay to replace the Wima's in my other phono stage, these things are the best bang for your buck that I have come across.
I wish I could remember who sent them to me as I need to thank him so much.
your capacitor value selection has a big outcome on the sound you will hear and on the distortion some can measure.
If you use a DC blocking capacitor as a filter, then that has two consequences
a.) it filters out some of the wanted signal.
b.) it adds distortion that varies with the type and quality of the capacitor.
You can avoid both of those consequences by ensuring that your selected value does NOT act as a FILTER.
Make it big enough that the filtering effect is at least one decade outside the wanted audio frequency band.
If you want to pass 20Hz to 20kHz through a DC blocking capacitor where the following load impedance is 47k then your capacitor should be selected to pass 2Hz or lower into that 47k load.
F-3dB = 1/2/Pi/R/C
for 2Hz and 47k the required DC blocking capacitor must be greater than 1/2Hz/2/Pi/47k > 1u69F
If the capacitor is an electrolytic I suggest you double the capacitance to make the passing F-3dB about 1/20th of the wanted audio frequency.
If you use a DC blocking capacitor as a filter, then that has two consequences
a.) it filters out some of the wanted signal.
b.) it adds distortion that varies with the type and quality of the capacitor.
You can avoid both of those consequences by ensuring that your selected value does NOT act as a FILTER.
Make it big enough that the filtering effect is at least one decade outside the wanted audio frequency band.
If you want to pass 20Hz to 20kHz through a DC blocking capacitor where the following load impedance is 47k then your capacitor should be selected to pass 2Hz or lower into that 47k load.
F-3dB = 1/2/Pi/R/C
for 2Hz and 47k the required DC blocking capacitor must be greater than 1/2Hz/2/Pi/47k > 1u69F
If the capacitor is an electrolytic I suggest you double the capacitance to make the passing F-3dB about 1/20th of the wanted audio frequency.
Yes. If you can hear a coupling cap then it probably has the wrong value, or is too physically large and so has added unwanted capacitive coupling and perhaps even some instability.
He said he could hear differences in the audio output when he swapped capacitors.
That tells us he is using the wrong capacitor/s
And this is why I spent a long time explaining how to select a proper capacitor for DC blocking duty.
That tells us he is using the wrong capacitor/s
And this is why I spent a long time explaining how to select a proper capacitor for DC blocking duty.
I thought all rc networks were filters by definition. Just choose the F3 cutoff point you want.
Yes, but the issue is whether a filter is actually filtering or not needing to because the things it would filter out are already missing from the signal.
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