will; be installing the resistors today and the cap, finally got my soldering tips, my last one wouldnt get hot anymore, will report back later today once finished
0 ohm jumpers. 1k would probably work but now that you know what they are, use the correct part.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zero-ohm_link
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zero-ohm_link
i ordered part 000 for o ohm jumpers on ebay, and they are slightly larger than the original SMD resistors, like double the size.
i cannot seem to find the smaller SMD resistors,
in another note, my soldering station does not seem to be getting hot enough to melt solder, i ordered new tips, but perhaps i think i need a new wand.
does the ceramic heat element ever go bad in wands and need to replace? please help thanks
Is the tip tinned well so that solder fed into it flows freely?
The heaters don't fail very often (for the Weller irons I used) but the tips can fail. Sometimes the tip will get a tiny break in the cladding and the internal metals will oxidize. This can prevent the tip from conducing heat well.
Did you measure the size of the original components. The following is a 0805 part:
https://www.mouser.com/c/?m=Vishay&...utm_campaign=71-CRCW0805-0&utm_content=Vishay
If you're buying electronic components from ebay or amazon, you're likely buying either second rate or counterfeit parts. Use a reputable distributor like Digikey or Mouser.
The heaters don't fail very often (for the Weller irons I used) but the tips can fail. Sometimes the tip will get a tiny break in the cladding and the internal metals will oxidize. This can prevent the tip from conducing heat well.
Did you measure the size of the original components. The following is a 0805 part:
https://www.mouser.com/c/?m=Vishay&...utm_campaign=71-CRCW0805-0&utm_content=Vishay
If you're buying electronic components from ebay or amazon, you're likely buying either second rate or counterfeit parts. Use a reputable distributor like Digikey or Mouser.
i bought a brand new tip installed, and new solder melts fine on the tip no problem, but it doesnt seem to get hot enough to melt the solder on the circuit board... so i imagined the tip was not getting as hot as it used to be. it is a ceramic tip and i can see the ceramic, it is not broken inside the wand at all. but it is a little blackish (the ceramic) which i read is normal. i ordered a new wand just to make sure and it will be here end of next week.
im assuming the ceramic in the wand probably isnt getting as hot as it used to be (this wand is about 5-7 years old) light use maybe once a month if that. but i usually set my power supply at max 896f, i dont know if that could wear out the wands ceramic faster?
if someone can chime in, if you tell me im wrong and ceramic doesnt wear down overtime, then i need to order a new power supply instead
im assuming the ceramic in the wand probably isnt getting as hot as it used to be (this wand is about 5-7 years old) light use maybe once a month if that. but i usually set my power supply at max 896f, i dont know if that could wear out the wands ceramic faster?
if someone can chime in, if you tell me im wrong and ceramic doesnt wear down overtime, then i need to order a new power supply instead
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What solder are you having trouble melting?
How does the soldering iron work on other components and other boards?
How does the soldering iron work on other components and other boards?
heres the thing, the soldering iron worked fine on this board, i already installed one of the capacitors. but as i worked on the other side, i was having trouble getting the old solder out, it wasnt getting hot enough to melt it to take it out even though the other side was fine. so i thought it was my tip at first, so i bought new ones.
i dont have another board to test but its defnitely not getting as hot as it should it just barely melts the new solder
and i got both old capacitors out on that board
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You might try scraping the top layer (oxidation) off of the solder or using liquid/paste flux to see if that helps.
It's possible that the heater is failing but I only very rarely saw that.
Do you have a way of measuring current draw by the iron to see if it's drawing its rated current when initially powered up?
It's possible that the heater is failing but I only very rarely saw that.
Do you have a way of measuring current draw by the iron to see if it's drawing its rated current when initially powered up?
i checked connectivity on an ohm meter with the shielding and 5 pins, and thats all i knew how to do.
i do not have an amp meter clamp unfortunately. i have the unit HAKKO 936, and as the unit works, it blinks when powered to that capacitor on the dial, and the blinking light works as it should, so i figured it was most likely the wand.
i suppose since i dont have a method to clamp its power my only other options is to wait for the new wand to arrive and see if it works. if not ill have to buy a new solder station
sooo... confirming the hakko 936 p.s. unit works but confirms the iron does not hold heat any longer. plugged the new iron into it and it got so hot it melted from its socket, sooo needlesss to say returning because their "50w" iron was more like max 15w...
can anyone point me in the direction of a decent soldering iron? i know the hakko 907 900 series is discontinued, does anyone know a fit ? the wand needs to have male 5 pin
can anyone point me in the direction of a decent soldering iron? i know the hakko 907 900 series is discontinued, does anyone know a fit ? the wand needs to have male 5 pin
cheaper to buy a whole unit with iron rather than an iron replacement? im surprised the industry has it like that.
good suggestion i think i will get that soldering station
good suggestion i think i will get that soldering station
No matter what you order, order an assortment of various tips, from small conical/screwdriver tips to wide, heavy tips that will conduct heat much better for large solder connections.
i just ordered the weller 1010na unit, it was 104 free shipping on amazon on sale!
the weller tips seem to be pretty expensive. 35 dollars for 5 tips? does that sound right?
finally powered it up, after a long long delay from my old soldering station now dead and put to rest. the new weller we1010 is great! i love the auto down feature to not burn the tip or iron out.
so powered it up and guess what! no more protection. green light. hey hey .but i didnt have a chance to actually hook it up to sound but im sure if i get the green light it works since there didnt seem to be anything wrong with the RCAs,
hopefully i will run some wiring through a car this year and try it out! brutus brutal
thank you again perry, hiphop101 both exceptional on the research, explanation, diagrams, teaching, and more. If this forum or in some form would like a donation i wouldnt mind to help things going
so powered it up and guess what! no more protection. green light. hey hey .but i didnt have a chance to actually hook it up to sound but im sure if i get the green light it works since there didnt seem to be anything wrong with the RCAs,
hopefully i will run some wiring through a car this year and try it out! brutus brutal
thank you again perry, hiphop101 both exceptional on the research, explanation, diagrams, teaching, and more. If this forum or in some form would like a donation i wouldnt mind to help things going