Deja-vu joke
Shin's making progress, first Scott designed this speaker
and now someone else is cutting the wood. Where is
the DIY in this DIY project?
/jk
😎
Shin's making progress, first Scott designed this speaker
and now someone else is cutting the wood. Where is
the DIY in this DIY project?
/jk
😎
Sheldon said:
I guess not, but considering that they just entered in a bunch of data into a computer and then let the machine do the rest, 50p per cut does seem a bit much.
Being DIY'ers I guess we expect the cutting to come for virtually free.
thylantyr said:Deja-vu joke
Shin's making progress, first Scott designed this speaker
and now someone else is cutting the wood. Where is
the DIY in this DIY project?
/jk
I picked it up from the timberyard, thats DIY isn't it?
😀
"Got wood?"
..oh, thats baaaadddddddd. 😀
Besides, there is nothing real about that wood, its just dust. Hell, the binder is probably composed of little blue pellets. 😉
BTW, if it was less than 100 US (total) for the cuts then I think you got a bargain. Near me its tough to even find someone capable of performing the cuts to any accuracy. (..and it would cost considerably more if I could.)
..oh, thats baaaadddddddd. 😀
Besides, there is nothing real about that wood, its just dust. Hell, the binder is probably composed of little blue pellets. 😉
BTW, if it was less than 100 US (total) for the cuts then I think you got a bargain. Near me its tough to even find someone capable of performing the cuts to any accuracy. (..and it would cost considerably more if I could.)
ScottG said:
But "Got MDF?" or "Got fine dust particles in a glue laminate" doesn't sound as good. 🙂
With the exchange rate I suppose it works out at ~$180.
Lavers is a specialist timberyard and don't diversify like Home Depot etc. So I guess they do this type of thing day in day out, hence the decent job they did. Its certainly made thing easier anyway.
I'm just putting some of it together and was wondering if its worth rounding over the bracing?
Ant,
I can not wait for you to finish this subwoofer build! What are you going to use as a prelim amplifier? The plan is for a UCD700 in the future, correct?
I can not wait for you to finish this subwoofer build! What are you going to use as a prelim amplifier? The plan is for a UCD700 in the future, correct?
ShinOBIWAN said:
at 180 its still probably a good deal - it does "hurt" a bit more though.
Rounding the bracing - depends on where it is..
Near the driver or port opening - good.
Near the cabinet walls - excellent.
Anyplace else - eh.
Oh and by "near" I mean within a few inches..
ScottG said:
I didn't bother in the end as I can't find the roundover bit, I should probably put stuff back in the box instead of leaving it lying around. 😱
Couple of shots:
Driver bracing:
alexcd said:
Yes. The B&C has a hefty pole vent that needs to be allowed to breath, so that's why the center of the brace is shaped.
Anyone any good at trig in 3 dimensions?
I've got two bits of wood to mate together at 16 degree's, what's the cut angle to make them mate perfectly?
This explains better:
First one with the answer gets a pair of ATC mids FOC 😀
I've got two bits of wood to mate together at 16 degree's, what's the cut angle to make them mate perfectly?
This explains better:
First one with the answer gets a pair of ATC mids FOC 😀
Do we have a winner?
the crosscut angle should be 56.1 degrees
the bevel angle should be 46.7 degrees
...errr, I figured accuracy to 3 places might get into "diminishing returns"
http://www.issi1.com/corwin/crown.html
the crosscut angle should be 56.1 degrees
the bevel angle should be 46.7 degrees
...errr, I figured accuracy to 3 places might get into "diminishing returns"
http://www.issi1.com/corwin/crown.html
Re: Do we have a winner?
Massive thanks Ed.
Just out of curiosity, could you please post how you worked those out?
Ed Lafontaine said:
Massive thanks Ed.
Just out of curiosity, could you please post how you worked those out?
yessssir, I just added the link above
I entered 16 in the box "Slope Angle from Wall in Degrees" and clicked on the "90 square" box. The answer is then available.
I entered 16 in the box "Slope Angle from Wall in Degrees" and clicked on the "90 square" box. The answer is then available.
Ed Lafontaine said:
Actually that doesn't look right. 56 degrees on the cut angle is a bit extreme, I'd imagine something like 20 degrees. And the bevel would be around 45 degree's.
//scatches head
Shin:
Ok, you got me, I worked on this for a little while. If I understand what you're asking correctly, the cut angle is still 45 degrees...
Ok, you got me, I worked on this for a little while. If I understand what you're asking correctly, the cut angle is still 45 degrees...
m0tion said:Shin:
Ok, you got me, I worked on this for a little while. If I understand what you're asking correctly, the cut angle is still 45 degrees...
I had this problem with the Perceives too, in the end I just did trial and error, wasting loads and loads of MDF. A pretty amateur way of going about things but it did eventually work out.
Unfortunately I don't have the luxury of lots of MDF lying around this time.
Also just to be sure were talking about the same thing; when you say the cut angle, do you mean the bevel or the angle of the cut? I assume its the bevel?
I'm hoping somebody can provide the maths required for this, I'm currently searching the net but most examples are overly convoluted or unrelated and my little mind can't handle it 😀
ShinOBIWAN said:
Think of the two extremes. At 0 degrees (regular rectangular box) the cut angle is 90 degrees and the bevel is 45. At 90 degrees (flat frame), the cut angle is 45 degrees and the bevel is 90 degrees. I bet you come pretty close with an interpolation.
Maybe 98 and 53 degrees? Didn't have time to do a careful check
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