I ordered two ECC832 preamp tubes for my amp to lower the gain. Man I gotta tell you, I am liking this! Now I can turn the gain down to a reasonable level and play. And there is no loss of high gain, their think will get with the program when I dial up the gain. This thing sound a bit like the Hotrod Deville tweed 410 I tried at Guitar Center and the deluxe. This amp has such a cool blues tone to it. Its hard to believe its this nice without a pedal or something. I think I am gonna try the whole retube kit with the gold pins. They say this makes it smoother, I guess we shall see. Really starting to love this amp the more I play it!
Jeff
djgibson
I just read about Yellow Jackets the other day. Interesting concept. I was wondering how come someone hasn't marketed an adapter that allows you to use two different kind of power tubes, like say 6L6's and 6V6's where you flip a switch and change between the two. It would be cool of you could setup a pedal to control the switching but I bet you would need to shut the amp off before switching, which would make it impractical. But then again, I bet someone could figure a solution for that too.
Jeff
djgibson
I just read about Yellow Jackets the other day. Interesting concept. I was wondering how come someone hasn't marketed an adapter that allows you to use two different kind of power tubes, like say 6L6's and 6V6's where you flip a switch and change between the two. It would be cool of you could setup a pedal to control the switching but I bet you would need to shut the amp off before switching, which would make it impractical. But then again, I bet someone could figure a solution for that too.
Just to be sure... you DO have the footswitch attached yes? Because the old Peaveys will default to the hottest channel when footswitch not plugged in...
Another tube to consider is the 5751 (in place of the 12AX7 at V2). This has a gain of 70 on each triode (in place of a gain of 100 on each triode in the 12AX7). Legend has it that Steve Ray Vaughan used these.
IMHO the gold pins would not affect the tone at all, but might give a more reliable electrical connection in the (very) long-term.
IMHO the gold pins would not affect the tone at all, but might give a more reliable electrical connection in the (very) long-term.
The triumph series were killer man.... They just scream with Sylvania 6l6's......or GE/Sylvania 6CA7's xD
A few weird things with the triumph though, the laughable low value of the screen grid resistors really scares me.....and the ridiculous high value resistors on the control grids already on top of 220k grid leaks.....coupled with high B+ 6l6s were getting hammered in those amps, they didn't last long either....but man those amps really kicked *** when wound up.
What would be the best way to drop the B+ in one of these amps?
I haven't tried my yellow jackets yet because I don't think they would handle the voltage.
I haven't tried my yellow jackets yet because I don't think they would handle the voltage.
BIG power resistors... or a variac... its a big problem though the power resistors shaving that much off I'm assuming you want to get closer to 400-450v B+????they are going to get hotter than living hell.....but can be placed on secondary B+ side only though....unlike a damn variac that drops everything heaters included because of straight into primary...and dropping too much will poison the cathodes....
Yes, I want something more sophisticated than resistors. Something like a MOSFET between centre tap and ground.
I don't know if it would even be worth it dropping it that much anyways for any extended period of time, not to mention what might cook eventually in doing so....I would be more tempted to just up Screen resistors and drop in a pair of GE 6550As or the old Tung-sol 6550s. xD
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Hey just following up, did you ever get this amp dialed in, and have you tried any mods on it? Thanks.
I'm looking for someone in the so. cal area to perform a re cap and tone mod—you know the one so that the tone controls affect all three channels. You ever try that mod?
Peavey Triumph 60 or 120
What exactly IS the mod to the tonestack to get it to work with crunch and ultra? Also is you pull a pair of 6L6 tubes out, do you now need a 4 or 16 ohm speaker?
What exactly IS the mod to the tonestack to get it to work with crunch and ultra? Also is you pull a pair of 6L6 tubes out, do you now need a 4 or 16 ohm speaker?
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For the tone stack to work on crunch ultra you need to remove/cut the jumper that link R11/C62 to the pin 5 of S1 relay.After that if you want to get a little more edge you can increase R11 to something like 220k because r11/c62 act like a fixed tone control. Removing them completely, I found out it leaves to much treble to my taste but is an option.For the speaker you can keep the same 8ohm an plug it in the 4 ohm jack to match/double the load on the output tubes
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