I don't know if this works well for etching purposes, but people transferring artwork sometimes use a special solvent to do this with ordinary photocopies, laser print on ordinary paper or even magazines. According to some info from the web it should even work with acetone for photocopies and laser printouts.
An example solven intended for image transfer is "Dylon Image Maker".
Regards
Charles
An example solven intended for image transfer is "Dylon Image Maker".
Regards
Charles
What about using a laser printer to print on overhead tranparencies? You could then etch the plate in the normal way. Or is this a lot more expensive?
Can you explain the transparency process from beginning to end, if you have time?
For example, where do you purchase raw boards, chemicals, and the specific process for exposing the image to the PCB?
Assuming that I don't understand anything yet. I have never done this before.
But I'm tired of waiting for the bickering to stop on the Inverted Regulated Gainclone board. So I think I want to build my own board.
I want something I can post here before I build it and have some eyeballs check out to see if I translated the schematic correctly. I am too absent minded to get point to point building right.
For example, where do you purchase raw boards, chemicals, and the specific process for exposing the image to the PCB?
Assuming that I don't understand anything yet. I have never done this before.
But I'm tired of waiting for the bickering to stop on the Inverted Regulated Gainclone board. So I think I want to build my own board.
I want something I can post here before I build it and have some eyeballs check out to see if I translated the schematic correctly. I am too absent minded to get point to point building right.
geewhizbang said:
This thread is about the so called toner-transfer method, not
the more common photo exposure method. Although some
people have mentioned transparencies, they did so in the
context of toner-transfer, that is, using an iron to transfer the
pattern, not UV-light and photo resist. which is more common.
markp said:
Thanks, I tried using paper but the transfer was not all that good... photopaper on the other hand, is prohibitively expensive here, I thought of using the backing for paper labels (which is slightly cheaper than photopaper) but transparencies are alot more cheaper.
Hmm, why am I always in an old thread??
I wonder how the toner transfer method would work if you passed the whole thing through one of those laminating machines instead of using an iron? They make lots of heat and certainly put the pressure on?!??
I wonder how the toner transfer method would work if you passed the whole thing through one of those laminating machines instead of using an iron? They make lots of heat and certainly put the pressure on?!??
mpmarino said:
I guess it would work, but there is a big risk the paper and board will slide out of position when you feed it through the laminator. Maybe a dab of super glue (or some other adhesive) in noncritical portions of the board would work? Do you have access to a laminating machine for testing? I'd be very interested in your results.
My mom once worked at a small printing shop, they had what would be the ideal tool for this kind of thing. It was a big hotplate (soft, i think) with a lever and spring for t-shirt transfer printing. I have no idea what that kind of thing would cost, but i'm guessing it won't come cheap. The process was very similar to toner transfer, but involved some kind of dyed powder that melted onto the t-shirt (can't remember exactly, this was a long time ago).
/Andreas
I'm pretty sure we have one back at the office at my company. It will take me a while to figure out how to do it without the ladies catching me messing with thier 'equipment'.😡 
Papageoff said:
For convenience I mostly use the 1/64" HSS bit from Lee Valley. They cost about $1.40 each Cdn. I can usually get a couple hundred holes per bit before discarding. If more exact sizes are required they sell a cheap set of #61-#80 for about $3.75 Cdn.
Oops, I was looking at the US price page. (So, 1.40 US instead of Cdn). You won't find these at "the Borg". You might try checking Rockler, Woodcraft or Garrett Wade if they're nearby, but I don't know if they carry such things at this price point.
mopus said:
That is a relief; I would hate to be asimilated. I hear those really cool eye lasers itch somethin fierce. 😀
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However as far as i know, we have none of those stores 'round these parts. Maybe they'll have 'em at ACE. Otherwise, I'll just have to ferret some out on da net.
All Electronics has a set of nine assorted carbide bits for $4.50 that cant be beat! They are pcb bits that are used and reground and all have 1/8" shanks to make it easy to put in a normal drill chuck. Check them out on line at allcorp.com
TwoSpoons said:
Well, ain't you just mister fancy!😀 j/k...
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Seriously though, thanks Mark, for the tip on allcorp. I had there catalog in the head for a while, but i lost it.
Anybody have info on etchant ?? Read somewhere that mixture of Muriatic Acid and Peroxide worked.??? Seems 2/1 mix but cant remember which way???? And I got A++ in high school chem!!!
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