Member
Joined 2002
Code said:
might cost you more like 8 times the price, buti doubt they can just copy it. It's not like photo copying a piece of paper.
Hmm..doesnt sound too bad.. I *was* planning to rebuild my Class-D 2020 amplifier from autocostruire, but with top quality components! Unfortunatly they are unwilling to provide a new pcb 🙁
Would you be able to recommend somewhere UK based who offer this service?
Would you be able to recommend somewhere UK based who offer this service?
Member
Joined 2002
Code said:
Do you have a schematic ? im sure some one on the forum could do it if you pay them a little $$$ to do a board design for you.
Code, it is inappropriate to put someone's copyrighted board design up for the purpose of soliciting someone to help you violate the copyright. I have removed the image. Please get the permission of the copyright holder before reposting.
That said, it is possible. I did it a few times in the past when the original films ( oh how I miss analog technology ) were gone or damaged. Most of the time they suffered from moisture.
If the board was important I went to a print shop and had an original pcb ( with all the parts desoldered !!! ) photographed with a 1:1 camera loaded with a high contrast film. In other words a film that made everything black that was not entirely white.
Then I retouched the new film with those press-and-peel tracks/pads and a scalpel. Especially the pads needed retouching. When it was done I could continue with my "new original" film.
That's all. It may sound obscure but I was quicker with analog techniques than with modern digital techniques....
Problem nowadays is that those 1:1 cameras are obsolete. If you find an old fashioned printshop they might still have one.
If the board was important I went to a print shop and had an original pcb ( with all the parts desoldered !!! ) photographed with a 1:1 camera loaded with a high contrast film. In other words a film that made everything black that was not entirely white.
Then I retouched the new film with those press-and-peel tracks/pads and a scalpel. Especially the pads needed retouching. When it was done I could continue with my "new original" film.
That's all. It may sound obscure but I was quicker with analog techniques than with modern digital techniques....
Problem nowadays is that those 1:1 cameras are obsolete. If you find an old fashioned printshop they might still have one.
Re PCB Copying
Had exactly the same problem with my Otala amp boards which over the years through wear and component changing had come to the end of their life. I depopulated a board, cleaned it up and then photographed it with digi camera.Loaded image into Adobe photoshop, and adjusted image size to correct board size.
I found this came ot reasonably well with little distorion. I then used Adobe to white the background(board) and black the tracks.
Then printed onto blue transfer and proceeded with the transfer method to make boards.
Seems a bit of a lengthy procedure, but hey now I have boards again for my beloved Otala amps.
Oh and BTW the boards although not fine tracks were double sided.
Had exactly the same problem with my Otala amp boards which over the years through wear and component changing had come to the end of their life. I depopulated a board, cleaned it up and then photographed it with digi camera.Loaded image into Adobe photoshop, and adjusted image size to correct board size.
I found this came ot reasonably well with little distorion. I then used Adobe to white the background(board) and black the tracks.
Then printed onto blue transfer and proceeded with the transfer method to make boards.
Seems a bit of a lengthy procedure, but hey now I have boards again for my beloved Otala amps.
Oh and BTW the boards although not fine tracks were double sided.
Should be as easy as thowing it on a flatbed scanner and resizing the image before touching up and printing.
jean-paul said:
I used to use this film for "everyday shooting". It's called ectographic HC slide film. It has an ISO of something like 2 to 8, but it also has huge reciprocity failure, so I often found myself shooting at 0.1 ISO and overprocessing. Needless to say, I would often need to shoot a whole role of the same image at different settings and hope for the best. If you do it just right, however, you can get gray scale and the grain is spectacular. Highly recommended for the photographer nerds out there.
-d
Dear Tony!
Please send Me directly the mentioned files made of Your Otala amp PCB If it is possible. May be I will built it with the help of Your stuff. If You have other pics from the amp/PCB or parts placement, please send it to me too to warhamme@freemail.hu.
Thanks and Best Regards: Roland B.
Please send Me directly the mentioned files made of Your Otala amp PCB If it is possible. May be I will built it with the help of Your stuff. If You have other pics from the amp/PCB or parts placement, please send it to me too to warhamme@freemail.hu.
Thanks and Best Regards: Roland B.
easy, use scanner, then calibrate so that the printout have same dimension with the original board. mirror the image before print it out. print it using laser printer to transparent than use heat transfer method so that the ink replaced to the board.
Sorry but not that easy, AT ALL.
I have done it, you will never ever have a straight hi contrast BW image.
Human eyes see a clear distinct image because of all the brain processing power, detects edges, considers, say, all "green metallic" coloured areas as tracks, different from PCB base material background, ignores flux specs all over the place, etc. ; dumb scanner just reads varying levels of Red/Blue/Green light.
You'll end with a recognizable colour picture, which will get a confusing greyscale one, which will turn into a B/W one in a very inconsistent way.
I *have* gotten usable results, but by loading the "colour picture" as one semi transparent layer, just as a guide, and redrawing over it in 2 bit colour B/W .
Takes much longer than expected.
I have done it, you will never ever have a straight hi contrast BW image.
Human eyes see a clear distinct image because of all the brain processing power, detects edges, considers, say, all "green metallic" coloured areas as tracks, different from PCB base material background, ignores flux specs all over the place, etc. ; dumb scanner just reads varying levels of Red/Blue/Green light.
You'll end with a recognizable colour picture, which will get a confusing greyscale one, which will turn into a B/W one in a very inconsistent way.
I *have* gotten usable results, but by loading the "colour picture" as one semi transparent layer, just as a guide, and redrawing over it in 2 bit colour B/W .
Takes much longer than expected.
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