PC remotely triggering power amp

So here is what I have been trying to do.

I want to build a HTPC as a single source-&-amplifier (all-in-one). So I want to integrate an amplifier into the PC. I have a 12V DC amp for this purpose. There are also amplifiers made to be put inside of PCs. However... everything that I have read suggests that I will pickup too much noise using the computer PSU (molex) to power the amp--that would not be acceptable.

I am not worried about the computer being noisy, in all likelihood the computer will be an open bench build and the amp doesn't have to be very close. But I do not want the sound to be compromised in any way. Is this possible? Bear in mind I want no par of soldering anything.

As a backup plan, I am wondering about just having a stand alone amplifier and somehow having the PC remotely trigger the powering on/off of the amplifier. IR is not an option. Any ideas? Thanks
 
If you are going to use an IC based amp, many include a S/by function.
This requires the main power to be continuosly 'on'.
Many units adopt a watchdog tension always available . It's the one that the computer uses for the watch...it's a 3V battery.
So if you are going to make a working computer you'll know about logics and TTL...:rolleyes:
 
I am using a master/slave power extension lead for switching all PC peripherals. Inexpensive and reliable.

Also you could feed a power relay with 5/12V power supply voltage from the PC. Many options available :)

Thanks, I appreciate the help. Nearly all of that went over my head. You'll have to explain as you would to a baby. Better yet, slap up a link to what you are referencing.

Just to help clarify, I am choosing between using 3 amplifiers: (2) Pragmatic MBA-124, MUSE PC21, and Elekit TU-H80. All run on 12V DC and + if I am not mistaken.

I simply want to use the computer's PSU to also supply power for the amplifier.Or at a minimum, have the PC trigger power for the amplifier without IR.
 
If you are going to use an IC based amp, many include a S/by function.
This requires the main power to be continuosly 'on'.
Many units adopt a watchdog tension always available . It's the one that the computer uses for the watch...it's a 3V battery.
So if you are going to make a working computer you'll know about logics and TTL...:rolleyes:

I have the Elekit TU-H80 right now. Not sure if it has the aforementioned ability, but it mentions that the (no signal) draw is minimal--so perhaps? The Muse PC21 mentions sleep and mute inputs... so maybe yes? And I have no idea about the Pragmatic MBA-124.

Given the low consumption rates of these amps, it's no big deal to leave them on 24/7. Though I would be happier if I could find some way to trigger them on/off with the PC. Some way that doesn't require logics and TTL, hopefully.
 

Yes, the power strip might work for 110V. Though I would prefer to run some sort of 12V system, along the lines of a car pc (battery powered). So the power strip would only work if I go 110V--which isn't a given.

You mention the extension cable. I assume this is a suggestion to power the amplifier through the computer PSU. Which is highly desirable. But won't this send noise down the power line to the amplifier? Thanks
 
If you want to have a universal solution, just operate a relay with 5/12V from your PC. The relay can switch either 110V or any other voltage for your amp.

I used to power amp with 12V from the PC and experienced noise (keyboard typing, mouse moving, graphics rendering letters in terminal). However I did not have any filter in the amp. IMO a simple filter would have cured the problem.

If you want to use a car battery, no need to power from the PC.

It is all up to you how you setup your rig. Many options and all of them simple to implement.
 
If you want to have a universal solution, just operate a relay with 5/12V from your PC. The relay can switch either 110V or any other voltage for your amp.

I used to power amp with 12V from the PC and experienced noise (keyboard typing, mouse moving, graphics rendering letters in terminal). However I did not have any filter in the amp. IMO a simple filter would have cured the problem.

If you want to use a car battery, no need to power from the PC.

It is all up to you how you setup your rig. Many options and all of them simple to implement.

Cool thanks. That is the solution I am looking for. Figuring out which relay will fit my needs might be a chore, but I'm going the right direction. Thanks