Please look at picture.
There are two onboard led illuminated switch.
One for power on red led illuminated and another for reset green led illuminated .
Pushing the power on switch,both led illuminates and you can see the power supply fan start running and the CPU fan running too.
I have connect both 24 and 8 pin ATX.
I have check with DMM when power supply is on
Everything looks good.
12v,5v,3.3v,-12v e.t.c.
I have also tried another good one.
Attachments
Maybe your power supply is not good despite it delivers voltage. Did you try newer power supply? Power good signal may be so fast that it doesn't signal right, so mother board don't know what is wrong.
Well, that's how it goes in IT - very-very expensive at purchase time, but hopelessly outdated 10 years later. That board is full of electrolytic capacitors which die, many high-power switched-supply chips which die.
Like Phofman said, the capacitors on motherboards that old become an issue. Had this with a dual Opteron: capacitors with bulging tops. Depending on the brand and series of capacitors it can be obvious or not, some vent at the bottom and then damage tracks on the pcb.
If you haven't tried it already, remove the CPU and inspect all the MB CPU pins for damage. If OK, reseat the CPU. Try again with only one memory stick. Try different memory sticks. You have tried two different power supplies. Are they good quality, reputable brands? If it still doesn't work, then it seems that something is likely defective with either the MB or CPU. Can you test the CPU in another, known working MB?
Thanks for respond.
I had look at CPU socket early.
I have seen some not good looking pins.
I have tried to restore some of them.
A group of those looking like oxidized.
I have used a cleaning spray and IPA,but I don't think that I see clear pins either.
Power supplies are good working in another PC.
One brand is Corsair 750w.
Unfortunately I haven't any other socket 1366 motherboard.
I had look at CPU socket early.
I have seen some not good looking pins.
I have tried to restore some of them.
A group of those looking like oxidized.
I have used a cleaning spray and IPA,but I don't think that I see clear pins either.
Power supplies are good working in another PC.
One brand is Corsair 750w.
Unfortunately I haven't any other socket 1366 motherboard.
At this point, @thimios has tried all the usual fault debugging suggestions except for determining if it's the MB or CPU that failed. The easiest way is to spend $20 CDN on ebay (or the local mkt) and get the cheapest LGA1366 CPU that the motherboard supports (i7-920) and swap the CPU. If that fails then recycle responsibly.
[edit] I did have an Asus MB from that era that started to not post/boot if a certain IDE drive was connected or a USB flash drive was present during boot. So maybe disconnect the HD's and any other peripherals if they were still connected
[edit] I did have an Asus MB from that era that started to not post/boot if a certain IDE drive was connected or a USB flash drive was present during boot. So maybe disconnect the HD's and any other peripherals if they were still connected
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Thank you guys.
I have try to start nothing connected.
I think that PC repair procedure is the same regardless if a motherboard is new or 10 years old.
Voltage Regulator Module (VRM) is a circuit consisting of a controller, some fets, corresponding coils and some capacitors.
The point is that we do not know, mainly due to the lack of circuit diagrams, which voltages and at which points are initially necessary for the smooth operation of the entire circuit.
I have try to start nothing connected.
I think that PC repair procedure is the same regardless if a motherboard is new or 10 years old.
Voltage Regulator Module (VRM) is a circuit consisting of a controller, some fets, corresponding coils and some capacitors.
The point is that we do not know, mainly due to the lack of circuit diagrams, which voltages and at which points are initially necessary for the smooth operation of the entire circuit.
That is true. My point was that repairing a PC motherboard is a very complicated operation (unless some "trivial" cause like visibly blown capacitors). Very few people are capable of doing that. It would make sense to do for some specialty hardware (e.g. some industrial PC controlling an expensive machine and the custom motherboard of which cannot be easily replaced). I doubt you will find anyone capable of that on a website about audio. You may find luck on some specialized forum, but those people will hardly waste time on a motherboard with replacement cost of a few dollars.
I had an important company server fail, tried to fix with the standard "replace electrolytics" procedure. It was an ugly work (motherboards are thick and not easy to solder on), the motherboard did not start up anyway. Waste of time.
If you have will and have time, you can download datasheet of the controller (VRM) and there you can find what voltages will be present on the output of the coils.
CPU with pins define voltage regulation, so you have to know which CPU you are using, not only socket.
CPU with pins define voltage regulation, so you have to know which CPU you are using, not only socket.
Yes, and that procedure also does include swapping the mainboard and swapping the CPU - if you really find the error.
And being in the PC hardware business for 30 years now - don't assume components are "good", because they are working in another PC.
I'd just try another mainboard from ebay, that is the cheapest option. However it is possible the CPU has burnt out, those Extreme edition were very close the maximum limit, selected samples of the production could handle. That's like running your car at 7k rpm all the time...
Thanks Haenk,we are in the same boat.
Ah, unfortunately socket 1366 mombo are still expensive at ebay and I try to avoid the cost.
Especially when I don't know if I can trust the source...
It seems that a used CPU is the cheapest option but again the same issue,who trust a not tested part?
I wish i know if the beep code during POST is functional without the presence of CPU.
Ah, unfortunately socket 1366 mombo are still expensive at ebay and I try to avoid the cost.
Especially when I don't know if I can trust the source...
It seems that a used CPU is the cheapest option but again the same issue,who trust a not tested part?
I wish i know if the beep code during POST is functional without the presence of CPU.
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A VRM is a complicated beast to troubleshoot because of feedback etc. You can't just measure voltages before and after each component to find the bad one. If one is bad, voltages will be wrong in the entire loop. Figuring out which one is very time consuming, and once you do you have the challenge of finding a replacement component. I would absolutely not bother for something this old (that cpu was fast when it was new, today it's just old), unless it's something very special as @phofman mentioned. This is a normal pc, not worth it. If you can find a cheap used motherboard it could be worth a shot. Trying to repair only makes sense if you enjoy troubleshooting VRMs, it's very unlikely to save any money.
Usually, mainboards don't POST without CPU (there are a very few modern ones that do, AFAIR).
You might try a POST test card, something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YHZGH5C
Still, to stay realistic, I would not invest into hardware that old.
Check, for example, this (this one is for notebooks, but you get the idea):
https://technical.city/en/cpu/Core-i7-980X-vs-Ryzen-5-5600X
I'd say for 200 EUR, you can get a fresher AM4 combo, that has more performance, and will likely last several years without issues of decade-old hardware, you can still use your SSD/HD/GPU...
It was nice in its day, but IMO motherboard repairs almost always result in much wasted time and, ultimately, a new motherboard. If it failed in storage the caps are the likely culprit, but almost any connection could have oxidized and gone open, including internal ones in components. Because motherboards have so many layers, even with a good desoldering tool, changing parts can be nearly impossible. All that said, I'd inspect every square inch of the board, both sides, under bright light and with high magnification. You could get lucky and spot something, but odds are against it.