Please post ideas of how you make crossovers with different kinds of adjustements. The easiest way is off coarse to use a variable L-pad for the tweeter, but it is a lot more options as i understand:
https://davis-acoustics.com/en/mv-one-master-2/
https://davis-acoustics.com/en/mv-one-master-2/
Those appear to be rotary switches. They can switch in more complex contouring sections than just an Lpad. Also you might switch in different cutoff frequencies.
Good example.
I see a low frequency compensation control in the first post. It could be done as follows (just switch one of three resistors for example), and by using a dual throw switch which also attenuates the tweeter. This circuit has also been used for variable baffle compensation, if that's a wanted thing.
I see a low frequency compensation control in the first post. It could be done as follows (just switch one of three resistors for example), and by using a dual throw switch which also attenuates the tweeter. This circuit has also been used for variable baffle compensation, if that's a wanted thing.
If I were going to do this, I'd spend more time making sure they did work as expected.
Do you have an idea in mind for a type of contour/frequency/levels that you want to explore in more detail?
Do you have an idea in mind for a type of contour/frequency/levels that you want to explore in more detail?
Therefore i look at other ways to do adjustements. Its interesting i think.
And i understand i can use switches to vary resistors in Lpad, baffel step circuits, notch filters.
I can altså bypass all kinds of circuits, f ex impedance correction and zobel. The «tube amplifier switch»
But is it nessecary🙄🤭
I can altså bypass all kinds of circuits, f ex impedance correction and zobel. The «tube amplifier switch»
But is it nessecary🙄🤭
I think especially on fullrange speakers it is interesting to play with the 3 different correction circuits: impedance correction, BBC, and baffelstep
I made Seas FA22 in large enclosures for over 10 years ago with such filter but without switches. A new pair will be made this winter with a lot of adjustement switches.
From 2011 🙂
I made Seas FA22 in large enclosures for over 10 years ago with such filter but without switches. A new pair will be made this winter with a lot of adjustement switches.
From 2011 🙂
Hi, if you build a speaker for you, to be placed in your living room and sound is tuned with what ever means, there is no need to change the sound unless you move the setup, or your hearing deteriorates 🙂 Switches would help to to zone in the sound, but could replaced after the sound is found. Better to breadboard the xo outside of the speaker and adjust with that, perhaps with switches if you want to switch fast.
A commercial speaker, something like adjustable baffle step compensation is good for marketing, but it's also good for the customer, it's impossible to build a speaker that would fit to all situations without any adjustment so perhaps there is real need for the stuff, for commercial speakers.
In general, if you start looking at speakers in a way, try to spot what is marketing and what is not, you'd see it's mostly marketing with Hifi sector. You'll find less marketing related features on systems for pro audio industry, studio and live sound.
A commercial speaker, something like adjustable baffle step compensation is good for marketing, but it's also good for the customer, it's impossible to build a speaker that would fit to all situations without any adjustment so perhaps there is real need for the stuff, for commercial speakers.
In general, if you start looking at speakers in a way, try to spot what is marketing and what is not, you'd see it's mostly marketing with Hifi sector. You'll find less marketing related features on systems for pro audio industry, studio and live sound.
Since we are DIY I can say no, and yes for two different reasons.But is it nessecary🙄🤭
No because the crossover should suit the speaker, not the room. The crossover should remain the same, but there are two problems just saying this.
1. Crossover means two things, blending two drivers (the crossover proper), and equalising the overall output. The best answer is to leave the blending the same from room to room and to equalise using an equaliser. This is easier in modern times since we have access to finer control. We could even use a computer based equaliser.
2. The speaker is meant to be designed to play well in the room. If it creates complex problematic reflections then it can be tempting to change the crossover proper, and the question does become vague.. however I think you should still leave the blending alone in those cases but equalise if it helps.
Equalising room issues won't always work properly, it is usually only a partial solution.
The other reason you might want this is for developing a crossover. I have built switchable crossovers before but in the end I opt for focussed development and empirical changes.
Agree.
I use Audiolense today, had Groundsound before, a lot og different miniDSP and i really like/reccomend Wiim streamer with EQ and PEQ. Are very familier with EQ/PEQ/IIR/FIR, measurements and acoustic treatements.
The best/cheapest/easiest solution for all system without vinyl is Wiim streamer with PEQ and HouseCurve app.
BUT, it is still facinating with simple systems with tube amps without tone controls and high quality two way speakers. With adjustements you get some ekstra possibilities for tweaking. I also like the challenge to make such crossover just for fun.
I use Audiolense today, had Groundsound before, a lot og different miniDSP and i really like/reccomend Wiim streamer with EQ and PEQ. Are very familier with EQ/PEQ/IIR/FIR, measurements and acoustic treatements.
The best/cheapest/easiest solution for all system without vinyl is Wiim streamer with PEQ and HouseCurve app.
BUT, it is still facinating with simple systems with tube amps without tone controls and high quality two way speakers. With adjustements you get some ekstra possibilities for tweaking. I also like the challenge to make such crossover just for fun.
This is a gadget I have made to help with prototyping crossovers, the Ultimate Gadget even (UG). It has some compromises as built on the cheap, with lots of old Wharfedale inductors, which have higher series resistance than I would like, but hopefully it should allow me to get to the ball park more quickly.
It is very flexible but basic spec, it has 2x variable inductors, and 2 x variable capacitors, which can be configured primarily as a 2 way 2nd order crossover, but also as one filter, up to 4th order or 2nd order with a notch. I haven't quite finished it yet, so I need to make sure it can do baffle step, and parallel series as well with external variable resistors.
It is very flexible but basic spec, it has 2x variable inductors, and 2 x variable capacitors, which can be configured primarily as a 2 way 2nd order crossover, but also as one filter, up to 4th order or 2nd order with a notch. I haven't quite finished it yet, so I need to make sure it can do baffle step, and parallel series as well with external variable resistors.
Hello
Best way I know is to avoid L-pads, they get noisy and are not precise. JBL uses a selector switch in Everest and jumper bars in the L250Ti. These can also have contact issues but more importantly they are much better from a repeatability aspect.
Rob 🙂
Best way I know is to avoid L-pads, they get noisy and are not precise. JBL uses a selector switch in Everest and jumper bars in the L250Ti. These can also have contact issues but more importantly they are much better from a repeatability aspect.
Rob 🙂
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