• WARNING: Tube/Valve amplifiers use potentially LETHAL HIGH VOLTAGES.
    Building, troubleshooting and testing of these amplifiers should only be
    performed by someone who is thoroughly familiar with
    the safety precautions around high voltages.

PAS3 to volume pot

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Long ago when I was collecting, and trying to build tube audio gear I modified a PAS3(with the help of a Tube mentor who is no longer available). I bypassed the tone controls and filters and put in Alps 250k Volume and 100K Balance controls. I now want to use it as a Volume Pot to control volume from a new Oppo BDP-83(which is arriving tomorrow) when I am using it as a music player for Tube amps. I think I can rewire from an input to an output and bypass the switch. If I wanted to use the PAS3 as an on/off switch for the Fisher 80AZs, with EL37 tubes that I intend to use first, can I just disconnect the Circuit boards and remove the tubes? should the Alps and Jacks be grounded to the chassis? I would appreciate a simple diagram of where to put the in and out wires on the 250k pot. Does this seem like a reasonable thing to do? I want to leave the PAS3 so I can reconfigure it in the future if need be. Thanks for any advice and help. ron
 
Not really all that reasonable. A 250K pot does not a good passive attenuator make. A 250K pot may have a worse case source impedance of almost 63K which makes it terrible at driving any cable at all. For an application such as this it would be smart to use a pot with a resistance of 20K or less IMHO.

The power switch in a PAS-3 is not particularly good at switching the kind of currents needed to handle those Fisher amplifiers. (It's current rating is just inadequate based on experience.)

I'd set aside that PAS-3 and put together a lightspeed attenuator or similar for what you want to do.
 
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I am now looking into the lightspeed which sounds great, but for tomorrow is the 250K pot okay in the preamp to be used as a preamp.

Kevin has already explained why a 250 KOhm control will NEVER be satisfactory, in a passive setup.

Before you spend $$ on a good passive setup, try an economical solution first. Your new disk player must be capable of driving a 10 KOhm load, as that is the IHF "standard". Build resistive voltage dividers from metal film parts that total at least 10 KOhms. If you "shed" approx. 70% of the disk players O/P, connecting to 1 of your PAS' line level I/Ps should work tolerably (perhaps quite) well. If you don't already have suitable parts on hand and are unwilling to wait for a delivery, "Rat Shack" Catalog # 271-309 might contain parts that can be used.

IMO, the best way to construct voltage dividers of this sort is by installing 1/8 W. Vishay/Dale RN55 parts inside the RCA plugs, at the preamp end. Mouser has those superior, tiny, metal film resistors.
 
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