Hi, well I haven't had much time over the past several months to do more than skulk around the archives, but props to ACE (his words of wisdom made me reanalyze my driver-board problems and work more pragmatically.)
What i have made: A series of 6 identical PAL beamers, using:
300 Watt power supply
PAR-36 100W 13volt "aircraft" lamp
AU 5.6" PAL/NTSC transmissive
2 fresnel lenses
1 Beseler enlarger lens (14" E.F. Series III) - I think its a triplet
1 small fan
4" sewage pipe (white PVC)
Gardening planter (sheet metal heat sink)
0.75mm steel enclosure
1mm steel interface
Acrylic caulk
300 Euro Materials cost
Why I did this:
http://horopter.net/
What i have made: A series of 6 identical PAL beamers, using:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
300 Watt power supply
PAR-36 100W 13volt "aircraft" lamp
AU 5.6" PAL/NTSC transmissive
2 fresnel lenses
1 Beseler enlarger lens (14" E.F. Series III) - I think its a triplet
1 small fan
4" sewage pipe (white PVC)
Gardening planter (sheet metal heat sink)
0.75mm steel enclosure
1mm steel interface
Acrylic caulk
300 Euro Materials cost
Why I did this:
http://horopter.net/
Here's a pic...
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
another pic
here's three of them lined up
and their photo gallery
here's three of them lined up
and their photo gallery
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Daniel pictures are so blurry, not understandable... However I liked dimensions of your projector, also liked unique shape.
BTW you' ve used a low res lcd panel, so there is probably huge screen door effect, which is bad. You can use a Lilliput lcd panel on your next project IMO, it has very nice resolution...
But I think you need to change your digital camera firstly 🙂
BTW you' ve used a low res lcd panel, so there is probably huge screen door effect, which is bad. You can use a Lilliput lcd panel on your next project IMO, it has very nice resolution...
But I think you need to change your digital camera firstly 🙂
I have some questions; what are the specifications of that lamp ? I mean lumen output value, color temp and life / hour....
Also, what is the screen door effect level, could you get 60" - 70" picture without huge screen door effect ? ( from 3 meter seating distance )
Last question is; could you get bright picture in day time ? ( with curtains closed )
Also, what is the screen door effect level, could you get 60" - 70" picture without huge screen door effect ? ( from 3 meter seating distance )
Last question is; could you get bright picture in day time ? ( with curtains closed )
A screen door on my back porch...
well, as far as the lamp goes, it is a GE 13volt 100watt that I am feeding 12volt to, a little less power but the image is still visible in less-than-completely-dark rooms. Although I haven't found specs on the lamps, similar ones last from between 100-300 hours, which translates to like 10cents/hour or so. Kind of hefty, but they are the perfect size for my project.
There is a screen door at very large sizes (5 meter diagonal), but my application has a throw distance of about 2.25 meters, so the screen door isn't that much of a problem: actually the diameter of the image is about 100 cm, and you can see the individual pixels, but for this project that was important, especially with regards to image alignment. I can match & overlay pixels, which increases the 3-dimensional effect of the entire projection / reflection system.
I got a pretty good deal from a taiwanese company on the pal lcd's, because all I have for this project are PAL cameras, more would be overkill and its senseless to overdo the projectors when the signal source is low-bandwidth anyway. (they were like 90 dollars for the tft, driver and controller: exquisitely easy to take apart! AU rocks.) like you don't use a piledriver when all you need is a simple claw hammer...
as far as the camera goes, I had to give it back to work...
, and am currently stuck making pics with my T630... maybe my sister'll let me borrow hers.
the only serious problem I have is that without a condensor, i am getting traces of lens imperfections on the projected image (like rings where the image is brighter). i thought about etching the surface of the glass with hydrochloric acid (for a bit of a frosted look...) but still don't know exactly.
well, as far as the lamp goes, it is a GE 13volt 100watt that I am feeding 12volt to, a little less power but the image is still visible in less-than-completely-dark rooms. Although I haven't found specs on the lamps, similar ones last from between 100-300 hours, which translates to like 10cents/hour or so. Kind of hefty, but they are the perfect size for my project.
There is a screen door at very large sizes (5 meter diagonal), but my application has a throw distance of about 2.25 meters, so the screen door isn't that much of a problem: actually the diameter of the image is about 100 cm, and you can see the individual pixels, but for this project that was important, especially with regards to image alignment. I can match & overlay pixels, which increases the 3-dimensional effect of the entire projection / reflection system.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I got a pretty good deal from a taiwanese company on the pal lcd's, because all I have for this project are PAL cameras, more would be overkill and its senseless to overdo the projectors when the signal source is low-bandwidth anyway. (they were like 90 dollars for the tft, driver and controller: exquisitely easy to take apart! AU rocks.) like you don't use a piledriver when all you need is a simple claw hammer...
as far as the camera goes, I had to give it back to work...
, and am currently stuck making pics with my T630... maybe my sister'll let me borrow hers.the only serious problem I have is that without a condensor, i am getting traces of lens imperfections on the projected image (like rings where the image is brighter). i thought about etching the surface of the glass with hydrochloric acid (for a bit of a frosted look...) but still don't know exactly.
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