wakibaki said:
The only thing sloppy is that I thought that most people here like detailed photos as I do, even if its only a image of point-to-point creations. I really hate low-quality photos no matter what the image is showing.
It may also been sloppy of me assuming that most people this day has access to a decent internet connection. I travel allot and there is no where in the world where I have experienced slow internet connection these days. But I have not been to Great Britain, witch is famous for it's retrograde, but when I go there I will bring a magic box that's called ADSL-modem and give you guys. I have a bunch of them.
This conversation has already dropped to a low level and gone off topic. If you have anything more to discuss that's not involving the boards, drop a mail or see a shrink.
Hi CJ900RR,
I appreciated the detailed photographs, and I think the resolution is fine. However, I think the point that wakibaki and AndrewT are trying (a little abrasively) to make is that it would be more appropriate to post a smaller and more heavily compressed thumbnail here with a link to the full version.
Not that you can change it now, but since you appear to be hosting those images on your own site, it's an option you can consider in the future.
I'm still interested in some boards, although it's starting to dawn on me how much it's going to cost to stuff the boards with 12 LM3886's.
Chris
I appreciated the detailed photographs, and I think the resolution is fine. However, I think the point that wakibaki and AndrewT are trying (a little abrasively) to make is that it would be more appropriate to post a smaller and more heavily compressed thumbnail here with a link to the full version.
Not that you can change it now, but since you appear to be hosting those images on your own site, it's an option you can consider in the future.
I'm still interested in some boards, although it's starting to dawn on me how much it's going to cost to stuff the boards with 12 LM3886's.
Chris
On topic!
I had no problem loading the pics with my rather slow connection.
Patience is the key!
So stop complaining about the pics and only write if you are really interested in the PCBs, like me.
I saw your thread at the swedish forum, good job delivering so many PCBs!
I'm from Sweden but I found it too late.
Has anyone else than you finished the amp with your PCBs and documented it?
The PCBs look very nice and I whould certainly like to by a few, even if the price is higher than the first ordering!
//Ricard
I had no problem loading the pics with my rather slow connection.
Patience is the key!
So stop complaining about the pics and only write if you are really interested in the PCBs, like me.
I saw your thread at the swedish forum, good job delivering so many PCBs!
I'm from Sweden but I found it too late.
Has anyone else than you finished the amp with your PCBs and documented it?
The PCBs look very nice and I whould certainly like to by a few, even if the price is higher than the first ordering!
//Ricard
Re: On topic!
But... it seems like some people in this forum needs something to complain on, always. If someone is showing something and they cant find a error in schematic or in component-values or what ever they have a need to complain on something else, every day in almost every tread they read, just for the sake of complaining and to show of. A classic Freud-ish symptom of someone with minor complex, and I'm starting to get tired of it after 4 years in here...
Yes it will cost a bit to stuff the boards, especially with all the op-amps and LM3886. For me I think it's worth it
Hi Ricard.
I think Hazzes has a thread about it in "Medlemspresentationer" on Faktiskt.se. I dont think that any one else has documented it yet.
Hi Fred. I run my boards on 32V DC, and I now that some of the Swedish forum guys is going for 40V. I think that's a bit high and require a lot of cooling, but it's their choise Generally you should go with lower voltage if parallel, 26-28V is a good advice.
I'm not sure when I will start, I'm in Belgium right now in work and will be home at the weekend, I can give a better perspective of it then...
Hi Chris. I also see the point that AndrewT and wakibaki is saying and it might be something I will take in mind next time.TheSeekerr said:
But... it seems like some people in this forum needs something to complain on, always. If someone is showing something and they cant find a error in schematic or in component-values or what ever they have a need to complain on something else, every day in almost every tread they read, just for the sake of complaining and to show of. A classic Freud-ish symptom of someone with minor complex, and I'm starting to get tired of it after 4 years in here...
Yes it will cost a bit to stuff the boards, especially with all the op-amps and LM3886. For me I think it's worth it
fjutten said:
Hi Ricard.
I think Hazzes has a thread about it in "Medlemspresentationer" on Faktiskt.se. I dont think that any one else has documented it yet.
fredlock said:
Hi Fred. I run my boards on 32V DC, and I now that some of the Swedish forum guys is going for 40V. I think that's a bit high and require a lot of cooling, but it's their choise
Generally you should go with lower voltage if parallel, 26-28V is a good advice.I'm not sure when I will start, I'm in Belgium right now in work and will be home at the weekend, I can give a better perspective of it then...
Calle strive to let each picture be max 100 kb, we are spoiled here in Sweden with 8-24 Mbit connections which most people have.
This picture is 77 kb, rather crisp don't you think? Lot's of details
http://sjostromaudio.com/dudek_pics/pa03_detail.jpg
96 kB
http://sjostromaudio.com/hifi_pics/hifi_100pr/qrp02r0_overview.jpg
This picture is 77 kb, rather crisp don't you think? Lot's of details
http://sjostromaudio.com/dudek_pics/pa03_detail.jpg
96 kB
http://sjostromaudio.com/hifi_pics/hifi_100pr/qrp02r0_overview.jpg
R26 and R27 should have caps across them, such as 10 uF or something. By this (check the datasheet) you will increase the PSRR a lot.
R2, R3 etc can be 1% which you'll match by hand. In real life 1% will have a tolerance of 0,3% and with a DVM it's quite easy to match within 0,1%. You'll save money and trouble.
R2, R3 etc can be 1% which you'll match by hand. In real life 1% will have a tolerance of 0,3% and with a DVM it's quite easy to match within 0,1%. You'll save money and trouble.
CJ900RR said:Hi all...
Nice to see the interest
You can find the schematic here: Schematic. Traces/layers can be found here: Layers
Note: this is only recommended values, some values can most certainly be changed to fit the personal needs.
More images will be added later (if that's OK for you AndrewT).
The regulators does not need heatsinks, at least not what I have noticed. They are a bit overkill for this 4 op-amps. The servo-circuit should be LF411 or any other op-amp with low offset. The buffer op-amp is in the schematic a OPA134 but that can be changed to any other single op-amp of personal taste and flavour.
I am not sure about the price yet. It depends of how many pcb I will order. A wild guess would be somewhere between 10$ and 16$, or 7-10 Euro. That's for 1 pcb. Shipping over the pond and down under should land on 12 Euro or 20$ for weight up to 2kg's. This prices is hard to change and some might think that it's a bit high, but I'm not a big customer so it's hard to affect.
ok. where`s the part list? thanks.
edit: sorry...the shematic. lol
I am interested in the bigger power amp. So i think i would need 4 boards.
I have one question, is this the same amp from the
www.shine7.com site or is it something different (apart from not using SMD components)?
Could i use the same technique (transformer) to use a balanced connection with 2 boards per channel.
Sorry for my english.
Regards,
Boris
I have one question, is this the same amp from the
www.shine7.com site or is it something different (apart from not using SMD components)?
Could i use the same technique (transformer) to use a balanced connection with 2 boards per channel.
Sorry for my english.
Regards,
Boris
Atilla said:
Yes it has! Sorry for that. It has been a lot of other stuff going on in my private life and also at work. I work as an service technician with the whole world as working place, and this spring has been a h*** with a lot of travels.
The only update is that they work really well and people seems really happy with them.
One member of a Swedish forum build this beauty: image.
But anyhow, I will take the time to order some boards in the near future!
kraljmatjaz said:
No its not the same amp. This one is a non-inverted, the Shine7 is inverted. Also my boards use OP-amps that keeps the DC-offset to a minimum, so no manual adjustment is needed. On board regulators for the +/-15V mean that you don't need a second power-supply for the OP-amps.
The only disadvantage with these boards is that they are a lot more expensive to populate than the Shine7.
Mine and he's boards has there own advantages/disadvantage.
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.