PA 2100 Class T issue

Hopefully this is an OK area to post about this amp as I believe it's considered a chip amp as it runs a Tripath chip. Actual amplifier in question is a Blaupunkt PA 2100. If wrong area, mods please relocate.


A brief description of set up- I'm running multi-amplifiers in my winter car. Front stage has 4 piezo tweeters running off the PA-2100, then RCA pass-through to a Crossfire VR402 that handles 4 door speakers and mono'd MTX center 3-way channel set in the rear seat area for extra vocals and mid-bass, then sub amp on dedicated sub pre-outs. Entire unit is forced stereo, with Pioneer HU rear channel AND sub channel set to sub-out signal, as this removes the fader function from options leaving only balance i.e. front RCA out is true stereo.

Anyways, the Blaupunkt sounds great, but it's apparently entering some type of protection mode for ONLY the left channel. Unit isn't even getting hot, has 6 gauge power/ground (40a amp fuse), gain is roughly 1/8 of way from start, HU has 10khz range to -5 (the tweets have a ridiculous 110 SPL and sound perfect with this setting w/o being overbearing, shrill, etc. and very clear).

When first demoing I noticed some hard clipping on the tweets at high volume so backed the volume off. A while later after a more casual listening level, I noticed the left tweet channel was silent, but the doors were OK. I double checked RCA and speaker connections, triple checked the VR402 was still outputting, etc. I can get sound to return by either unhooking the RCA-in to both channels briefly, or turning unit off for 10 minutes.

Any ideas? I ran a PA 2150 previously to same tweeters, and it had no such issues, nor has one of my back-up VR402's running them. Left front/Left rear tweets are series wired to each other (same for right channel). I dunno if the issue lies in the fact piezos don't really have an ohm rating, or something is wonky with the amplifier. I ran the amp in-house off a PC PSU and let it power my 8 ohm 4-way 15" speaker cabs and while watching Star Trek NG on Hulu for an afternoon, and amp worked correctly. So something is wonky between that and entering the car.
 
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Well, guess it's more than a connection issue. Bought it used and it was missing a connector for speakers and remote turn on, so I crimped small connector sections onto wire ends, then attached those to the prongs. So disappointed as these Class T amps are the best sounding tweeter/mid amps I've come across and just not having luck with them, plus they are very hard to find now

Anyone out there familiar with the Chinese Class T kits and trouble-shooting them? I think 2020 and 3020 chips are common tripath kits for the DIY crowd and I think this PA 2100 has the 2020 chip. I know the 2150 has the 3020. I saw in an old thread elsewhere, where someone upgraded a PA 2200 with better outputs from one of those kits, so thinking you guys/gals might be versed in the kits and tweaking them?

If these amps didn't sound so good at higher freq., I honestly wouldn't bother, but to have an amp that can accurately separate high freq. sounds from one another w/o being a garbled mess, suspect I'd have to go with a really expensive high-end Zapco or something.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. If anyone has an old Blaupunkt PA-xxxx sitting in their closet, I might be interested if the price was right.
 
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