My Yamaha Ax 500u integrated output transistor shorted. I have 2sa1302 and 2sc3281 in stock or what would be a better replacement of the transistors in the title line? The power supply is -+57v ...
Do you have pictured of the original parts? Are they TO-247 as 1302/3281? I guess so. Are you sure no other parts failed?
I like 1302/3281, but beware of fake parts.
I like 1302/3281, but beware of fake parts.
Hi Crispycircuit. Did you locate a schematic with legible voltages? Being printed in red, many scanners seem to miss these, but it might be useful to share the source if you found a way around the problem.
Any Toshiba 2SC3280,81 or 2SA1301,02 manufactured after Toshiba made them obsolete in 2000 will be fakes. The complements were, of course, in different colours. Fairchild officially made some clones after that date but the only reliable source now is On-Semi MJL3281, 1302 and several variants like 4381,0381 MJW, NJW etc. by case type, thermaltrak diodes, Vceo etc. from an authorized agent or direct.
It's probably a good idea to use the spares from other equipment but are you sure the driver transistors are OK? If not, you could just wind up with more dead output transistors and 0 working amps.
Any Toshiba 2SC3280,81 or 2SA1301,02 manufactured after Toshiba made them obsolete in 2000 will be fakes. The complements were, of course, in different colours. Fairchild officially made some clones after that date but the only reliable source now is On-Semi MJL3281, 1302 and several variants like 4381,0381 MJW, NJW etc. by case type, thermaltrak diodes, Vceo etc. from an authorized agent or direct.
It's probably a good idea to use the spares from other equipment but are you sure the driver transistors are OK? If not, you could just wind up with more dead output transistors and 0 working amps.
No luck finding voltage references in red. I wondered why they didn't show on the schematic. The rest of the schematic is good. I'm able to compare to the good channel. But finding the beginning and the end of the trouble is gonna be difficult for my skills. I did find voltages very high in the driver section but need to find what's causing the higher voltage. I'll replace the drive transistor as you recommend...
Our experience as DIY electronics dabblers can be measured by the size of our Semi graveyard.
When you go back and read the tombstones, you know you learned something important there 😀
I was looking at the specs of the amp. and realised that with 57V rails, just how hard that single
pair of transistors can be pushed. You can see that it's not rated for 4R loads and only specified
a little higher at 4R than 8R. I wouldn't use it on 4R speakers except with careful use of the loud
knob, as the transistors would really only be reliable up to a continuous 85W on a typical heatsink.
All the same, they're great transistors and Yamaha built much of their reputation with them.
I imagine the AX500 will sound great too.
When you go back and read the tombstones, you know you learned something important there 😀
I was looking at the specs of the amp. and realised that with 57V rails, just how hard that single
pair of transistors can be pushed. You can see that it's not rated for 4R loads and only specified
a little higher at 4R than 8R. I wouldn't use it on 4R speakers except with careful use of the loud
knob, as the transistors would really only be reliable up to a continuous 85W on a typical heatsink.
All the same, they're great transistors and Yamaha built much of their reputation with them.
I imagine the AX500 will sound great too.
Switching Diode sub....???
I found a glass diode Jap #1ss133. It has 57v on one side and 43v (bad channel) The good channel has 57v and 1.8v on the other side. What could I sub for that switching diode?
I found a glass diode Jap #1ss133. It has 57v on one side and 43v (bad channel) The good channel has 57v and 1.8v on the other side. What could I sub for that switching diode?
sub for 1ss146 ???
I got the output section repaired and biased but I'm still in the protect mode and sorting that out. I want to replace the glass diode 1ss146 but can't seem to cross reference to a generic number. Any ideas?
I got the output section repaired and biased but I'm still in the protect mode and sorting that out. I want to replace the glass diode 1ss146 but can't seem to cross reference to a generic number. Any ideas?
1SS146
It's basically a 200V signal diode but quite a bit slower than IN4148. You could probably even use a 1N4004,5,6,7. As they appear to be in the VAS, better devices would be BAV20 or 21 in the small DO35 glass leaded pack - Not very common parts, though.
It's basically a 200V signal diode but quite a bit slower than IN4148. You could probably even use a 1N4004,5,6,7. As they appear to be in the VAS, better devices would be BAV20 or 21 in the small DO35 glass leaded pack - Not very common parts, though.
Fixed !!!
It was a tiny 47k 1/8 watt resistor hidden under blob of glue from the cap next to it. I couldn't even see it from the top side but noticed the leads soldered on the foil side. It was open. Everything running fine... Jeesh!!
Thx to all for the help....
It was a tiny 47k 1/8 watt resistor hidden under blob of glue from the cap next to it. I couldn't even see it from the top side but noticed the leads soldered on the foil side. It was open. Everything running fine... Jeesh!!
Thx to all for the help....
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