The power supply drive section uses A1023 and C1027 drivers which I need to replace and don't have. I do have the 1220/2690 pair and the bd139/140 pair and and abundance of others.
Which would be suitable replacements for these? Normally I would just experiment but seeing as parts for this amp are not cheap I want to reduce my chances of failing.
Which would be suitable replacements for these? Normally I would just experiment but seeing as parts for this amp are not cheap I want to reduce my chances of failing.
So I have a question for you Perry.
In the thread located Sound stream XXX-4000D repair help
You mentioned the power supply failing while the vehicle is being started and remote voltage is being applied.
Is the Orion 5000.1d spl similar in design to which you speak of? If so how can fix this or atleast give me a direction to go in.
This has happened to me twice with this amp and ive been scratching my head for a year on what the heck ive done wrong. You've made me realize that the last two times ive done it i have had my doors open and lights on in the vehicle without the vehicle running and the stereo off and working on something in the vehicle. Go to start the vehicle and the amp starts to draw current when the amp is told to turn on. I am assuming now because the battery voltage was low.
In the thread located Sound stream XXX-4000D repair help
You mentioned the power supply failing while the vehicle is being started and remote voltage is being applied.
Is the Orion 5000.1d spl similar in design to which you speak of? If so how can fix this or atleast give me a direction to go in.
This has happened to me twice with this amp and ive been scratching my head for a year on what the heck ive done wrong. You've made me realize that the last two times ive done it i have had my doors open and lights on in the vehicle without the vehicle running and the stereo off and working on something in the vehicle. Go to start the vehicle and the amp starts to draw current when the amp is told to turn on. I am assuming now because the battery voltage was low.
The problem happened when the amp remote was powered by a source that went directly to battery voltage and didn't switch off when the engine was being started. Is that what you had?
What i think may have happened is the engine was still cranking when the remote switched on. The unit switches off when turned over but its like a timed delay when it senses the engine being cranked. Not staying off the entire duration while the engine is being turned over with a weak battery.
Last edited:
I found my answer in the smps page of the tutorial. Anyways how do i fool this amp into full or half duty cycles to help check the drive waves?
If this is one of the amps that use high-value gate resistors, it will have a greater deadtime and therefore a greater value discharge resistor. That could account for the difference in the waveform.
The datasheet will give you the formula to calculate the frequency from the installed values.
The datasheet will give you the formula to calculate the frequency from the installed values.
You can generally chip away the epoxy with nippy cutters to either solder on new leads or read the value.