Hi there!
I just ordered these speakers and I would be extremely grateful if someone here would help med getting the optimal box design for these. I'm planning to match them with a Ta2020-amp and a car-battery.
I'm assuming seperate chambers and bass reflex holes? I tried working WinISD on my own, but I'm just too insecure in the result to base my build off it. Maybe someone could help me out, i would be ever so thankful ! 🙂
Forgot to mention, if you haven't figured it out, it's supposed to be portable 😉
I just ordered these speakers and I would be extremely grateful if someone here would help med getting the optimal box design for these. I'm planning to match them with a Ta2020-amp and a car-battery.
I'm assuming seperate chambers and bass reflex holes? I tried working WinISD on my own, but I'm just too insecure in the result to base my build off it. Maybe someone could help me out, i would be ever so thankful ! 🙂
Forgot to mention, if you haven't figured it out, it's supposed to be portable 😉
Last edited:
Wow. I don't think I've ever seen full T-S parameters for a car speaker before. That's an awfully high Qts, which I suspect means that it's optimized for rear deck mounting where enclosure volume is nearly unlimited. I've been playing with the modeling software at Closed Sealed Speaker Box Software Online Enclosure Design With Frequency Power Graph since I don't have any installed on this computer. With a sealed box, it looked like about 0.5 to 1 cubic feet per driver would be OK, but that a ridiculously huge box is needed to get close to a flat response, about 6 cubic feet per driver. It could be worth adding ports, but first you'll need to decide on how big a cabinet you can tolerate.
Ok, wow that's interesting, 6 cubic feet sounds pretty big. But maximum size for the whole box would probably be somewhere around 1x0.5x0.3 (volume: about 5,3 cubic feet), but that would preferably be including some space for battery and my little t-amp somewhere 🙂
Is that in meters?
Google says 1 cubic meter = 1000 liters, and liters x 0.0353 gives cubic feet.
So, 150 liters = 5.3 cubic feet. OK.
That's pretty big for something "portable", and larger sides mean more bracing or thicker material. Although if you really plan to use a car battery, you're already committed to something strong enough to hold that battery. Average power consumption of a 10 wpc stereo amp at maximum volume with music should be only a couple of watts, so even a relatively small 12V 7AH sealed lead-acid battery should run it all day.
Back to the enclosure volume... Draw up something that looks right, and build it. 1 to 2 cubic feet at most. If it doesn't sound right, play with the EQ in your music player.
Google says 1 cubic meter = 1000 liters, and liters x 0.0353 gives cubic feet.
So, 150 liters = 5.3 cubic feet. OK.
That's pretty big for something "portable", and larger sides mean more bracing or thicker material. Although if you really plan to use a car battery, you're already committed to something strong enough to hold that battery. Average power consumption of a 10 wpc stereo amp at maximum volume with music should be only a couple of watts, so even a relatively small 12V 7AH sealed lead-acid battery should run it all day.
Back to the enclosure volume... Draw up something that looks right, and build it. 1 to 2 cubic feet at most. If it doesn't sound right, play with the EQ in your music player.
Last edited:
Yeah, well it's supposed to be portable in the sense that you can bring it to a festival 😉
Ok, that's sounds pretty nice, I'll probably go to some old car dump and buy a cheap battery 🙂
Alright, I'll do my best, although my woodworking skills aren't the best, but basically, my design is two separate chambers with the battery and t-amp in between.
Ok, that's sounds pretty nice, I'll probably go to some old car dump and buy a cheap battery 🙂
Alright, I'll do my best, although my woodworking skills aren't the best, but basically, my design is two separate chambers with the battery and t-amp in between.
Hi,
Around 15L to 20L per driver sealed and stuffed will give you some portabilty.
You will get a bass peak around 100Hz, it can be helped, by arranging the
amplifiers input capacitor as a 1st order high pass -3dB at 100Hz.
Then mess about with the players EQ.
Best to look for a motorcycle battery rather than a car IMO.
rgds, sreten.
Around 15L to 20L per driver sealed and stuffed will give you some portabilty.
You will get a bass peak around 100Hz, it can be helped, by arranging the
amplifiers input capacitor as a 1st order high pass -3dB at 100Hz.
Then mess about with the players EQ.
Best to look for a motorcycle battery rather than a car IMO.
rgds, sreten.
Hey,
Why not just use a cheap ABS plastic toolbox ? It's easy to cut with tin snips or a razor knife. They also have some water resistance and usually have a tray on top which works out great for an mp3 player. I did this with my tool box amp, the thread's out there somewhere. I was pretty happy with the results considering I put it together with cast off stuff from a commercial boombox and pieces and parts lying around. Just a thought ....
Why not just use a cheap ABS plastic toolbox ? It's easy to cut with tin snips or a razor knife. They also have some water resistance and usually have a tray on top which works out great for an mp3 player. I did this with my tool box amp, the thread's out there somewhere. I was pretty happy with the results considering I put it together with cast off stuff from a commercial boombox and pieces and parts lying around. Just a thought ....
Allright! I'll look into that 🙂 You don't think that I would improve the sound with a bass reflex?
Interesting! Always up for some input, that could be the backup plan when i realize how badly built the plywood-version is 😉
Hi,
Not really. The speakers are designed to go on a rear shelf and use
the whole boot of the car for minimal rear loading. The Q in a sealed
box will be high enough already without making it worse with a port.
rgds, sreten.
- Status
- Not open for further replies.