Hello all,
So I have a 2017 Tacoma Double Cab. I'm looking to add a sub behind the rear seats which I don't have a lot of room. Max outside dimensions of the box is H-10",BD-8",TD-7",W-30". I designed 2 enclosures on SpeakerBoxLite.com.
Red line is a 6th order bandpass using a 6W3V3 from JL Audio
Green line is Ported box using a 8" UMC8-22 from Dayton Audio
Personally I'm leaning towards the 6th order because it looks like it hits a little lower but I just want to make sure I'm not missing something obvious.
Which way would you go?
So I have a 2017 Tacoma Double Cab. I'm looking to add a sub behind the rear seats which I don't have a lot of room. Max outside dimensions of the box is H-10",BD-8",TD-7",W-30". I designed 2 enclosures on SpeakerBoxLite.com.
Red line is a 6th order bandpass using a 6W3V3 from JL Audio
Green line is Ported box using a 8" UMC8-22 from Dayton Audio
Personally I'm leaning towards the 6th order because it looks like it hits a little lower but I just want to make sure I'm not missing something obvious.
Which way would you go?
Size the vents to not have chuffing noises. Do they still fit?
Which one goes louder at max power?
Do your kicks / midranges reach down to 60 Hz to meet the bandpass subwoofer?
How much cabin gain do you have?
Do you have some form of electronic equalization available?
Which one goes louder at max power?
Do your kicks / midranges reach down to 60 Hz to meet the bandpass subwoofer?
How much cabin gain do you have?
Do you have some form of electronic equalization available?
TBTL mentioned cabin gain, you do not need to design for flat response in the sim, even your green line sim will likely have a rising response in a closed vehicle.
OTOH, a flat bass response in-car may not produce the best results.
A rising response might actually sound better (particular if that rising response starts from around 200 Hz and is around +9dB or higher at 80 Hz).
Having said that, I've played around with several different types of alignments for car audio use and I keep coming back to plain old sealed. Smallest box requirements, and if I want more output, I just use more drivers.
Bandpass designs can be tricky beasts, and 6th order versions can be even more tricky beasts. The response you actually get may look nothing like what you see in the sim (particularly if said sim does not take into consideration such this as the driver's complex inductance, pipe resonance modes, and the impact of the driver's position and the position of the vents in the enclosure (yes, they actually do make a difference). And expect the response curve to change as you turn up the volume, unless you use BIG vents.
So it's a FLH kick bin then
Code:
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S2=360.00
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F45=0.00
Sd=211.20
Bl=9.18
Cms=3.35E-04
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Le=1.14
Re=4.20
Nd=1
Vrc=6.00
Lrc=16.00
Fr=0.00
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Atc=360.00
Pmax=100
Xmax=5.0
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Fr1=0.00
Fr2=0.00
Fr3=0.00
Fr4=0.00
Tal1=100
Tal2=100
Tal3=100
Tal4=100
Comment=UM8-22 Bin
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
FILTER
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0 0.01 0.0 -1 0 0.01 0.0 -1 0 0.01 0.0 -1
100 25 0 0
40.50.50.5
0.50.50.50.5
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~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Attachments
Last edited:
🙂 Did a classic reflex alignment and the cab is 3.56 L and the vent is larger @ 3.79 L @ 112 cm long and still may need a bit of damping if HR is accurate, so totally impractical; Brian's right, sealed is the only practical option with modern day drivers in most mobile audio apps.
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