Might be able to use this one in a 2-way; it has a built-in BBC dip.
Does it basically sound alright just playing full-range with no XO?
Does it basically sound alright just playing full-range with no XO?
It sounds fine and I have decided to make a two. Any suggestions for a tweeter? Something in the $50.00 range.
This might work (on sale) https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.c...2606/9200-horn-loaded-1-textile-dome-tweeter/
Horn solves acoustic offset, though it will need padding
Tested here https://heissmann-acoustics.de/en/test-scan-speak-discovery-h2606-920000/
He suggests it can go as low as 1.5khz and uses it in a design with an 8" crossed at 1.8khz LR4
https://heissmann-acoustics.de/en/suzie/
Probably a good ballpark that translates to the HM170.
Horn solves acoustic offset, though it will need padding
Tested here https://heissmann-acoustics.de/en/test-scan-speak-discovery-h2606-920000/
He suggests it can go as low as 1.5khz and uses it in a design with an 8" crossed at 1.8khz LR4
https://heissmann-acoustics.de/en/suzie/
Probably a good ballpark that translates to the HM170.
Funny, I was looking at that exact tweeter but I couldn't find anybody that had used it, so I started looking at the https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.c...-discovery-d2606/9200-1-textile-dome-tweeter/
but maybe I will go back to the horn loaded one.
but maybe I will go back to the horn loaded one.
The H2606-9200 is an underrated tweeter. Its only achilles heal is the Ferrofluid, but the crossover will need tweaking afterwards and may affect distortion down low.
The SS H2606 and the Peerless copies of the original Made-in-Denmark drivers sound very different, in a large extent due to inferior silk cloth and doping compounds. I can definitely hear a significant difference between the
Peerless XT25 and the older Vifa XT25.
The mentioned H2606 SS horn dome tweeter is a great piece and will surprise you by its humble mechanical looking innocence. The Peerless XT25, SS H2606 and Vifa H27TG45-06 were the best budget priced, horn loaded domes that could sound high end when used correctly.
If you happen to find a set of these older drivers with ferrofluid, you should definitely at least change or remove the FF if you can. The older FF used by Vifa appeared to be more prone to gumming up compared to others and further worsening the risk of a bad driver right out of the box.
The SS H2606 and the Peerless copies of the original Made-in-Denmark drivers sound very different, in a large extent due to inferior silk cloth and doping compounds. I can definitely hear a significant difference between the
Peerless XT25 and the older Vifa XT25.
The mentioned H2606 SS horn dome tweeter is a great piece and will surprise you by its humble mechanical looking innocence. The Peerless XT25, SS H2606 and Vifa H27TG45-06 were the best budget priced, horn loaded domes that could sound high end when used correctly.
If you happen to find a set of these older drivers with ferrofluid, you should definitely at least change or remove the FF if you can. The older FF used by Vifa appeared to be more prone to gumming up compared to others and further worsening the risk of a bad driver right out of the box.
you can try this approach:
LAMPIZATOR - Lukas Fikus
https://web.archive.org/web/20071119162642/http://www.lampizator.eu/SPEAKERS/Practical tips loudspeaker DIY.html
Open Baffle Mid on top of sub/woofer
https://web.archive.org/web/2021102...pizator.eu/SPEAKERS/PROJECTS/P7/PROJECT7.HTML
https://web.archive.org/web/20210917012330/http://www.lampizator.eu/SPEAKERS/PROJECTS/Speaker projects.html
LAMPIZATOR - Lukas Fikus
https://web.archive.org/web/20071119162642/http://www.lampizator.eu/SPEAKERS/Practical tips loudspeaker DIY.html
Open Baffle Mid on top of sub/woofer
https://web.archive.org/web/2021102...pizator.eu/SPEAKERS/PROJECTS/P7/PROJECT7.HTML
https://web.archive.org/web/20210917012330/http://www.lampizator.eu/SPEAKERS/PROJECTS/Speaker projects.html
profiguy,
Are you suggesting remove the ferrofluid from new H2606 tweeters? If I did, it would it change them drastically?
ChrisABC,
Interesting, can't say I agree with most of what he says. I do agree that using the drivers without trying equalize the response, but using simulation software and measurements work well for me.
At this point I'm starting do dislike all the old Audax drivers I have. I might just end up giving them all away if anybody wants them.
Are you suggesting remove the ferrofluid from new H2606 tweeters? If I did, it would it change them drastically?
ChrisABC,
Interesting, can't say I agree with most of what he says. I do agree that using the drivers without trying equalize the response, but using simulation software and measurements work well for me.
At this point I'm starting do dislike all the old Audax drivers I have. I might just end up giving them all away if anybody wants them.
Here's an option for the HM13Z0- Dick Olsher's original Poly Natalia, Build the top, figure out something else for the bottom, if the Morel tweeter is too much$ look for a substitute.
http://web.archive.org/web/20080202233524/http://www.blackdahlia.com/polyarti/polyarti.html
http://web.archive.org/web/20080118...dahlia.com/the_poly_natalia__a_diy_loudsp.htm
LAMPIZATOR Proj 7 looks interesting, large Mid on OB. You could play either drivers on an OB to hear if you even like them.
I'd consider OB HM13Z0 and tweeter with subwoofer base
http://web.archive.org/web/20080202233524/http://www.blackdahlia.com/polyarti/polyarti.html
http://web.archive.org/web/20080118...dahlia.com/the_poly_natalia__a_diy_loudsp.htm
LAMPIZATOR Proj 7 looks interesting, large Mid on OB. You could play either drivers on an OB to hear if you even like them.
I'd consider OB HM13Z0 and tweeter with subwoofer base
Last edited:
continuing from post #31
http://web.archive.org/web/20080202233524/http://www.blackdahlia.com/polyarti/polyarti.html
"these drivers and choice of crossover points (600 Hz and 4 kHz) made possible a much simpler yet elegant approach. "
use your HM17Z0 for the woofer portion (plus crossover parts for @600hz & box)
http://nedlab.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/HM170Z0-woofer-a.pdf
This shows some manufacturer box suggestions
http://nedlab.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/HM170Z0-woofer-b.pdf
Without measurements check this table vs HM21Z0 subwoofer box
http://web.archive.org/web/20080202233524/http://www.blackdahlia.com/polyarti/polyarti.html
"these drivers and choice of crossover points (600 Hz and 4 kHz) made possible a much simpler yet elegant approach. "
use your HM17Z0 for the woofer portion (plus crossover parts for @600hz & box)
http://nedlab.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/HM170Z0-woofer-a.pdf
This shows some manufacturer box suggestions
http://nedlab.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/HM170Z0-woofer-b.pdf
Without measurements check this table vs HM21Z0 subwoofer box
Attachments
Last edited:
HM170Z0 2 way
https://www.homecinema-fr.com/forum...endu-enceintes-colonnes-fh-diy-t30095380.html
"General description: I am selling a pair of FH-type DIY speakers (1st order high-end filter: 6dB)
With very high-level components:
https://www.homecinema-fr.com/forum...endu-enceintes-colonnes-fh-diy-t30095380.html
"General description: I am selling a pair of FH-type DIY speakers (1st order high-end filter: 6dB)
With very high-level components:
- Excel Millenium CF002 tweeters,
- Medium Audax Airgel HM170Z0,
- Duelund Carbon 1.2 ohm resistor, Duelund VSF Copper 6.8 mF capacitor,
- Self Mundorf L200 1.8 mH.
- Height 980 cm on their tips
- Width 20 cm (speaker body), 25 cm (base)
- Depth 35 cm (speaker body), 37 cm (base) "
Attachments
wayback Audax.com Drivers & Kits
http://web.archive.org/web/20080528195009/http://www.hautparleur.fr/
HM170Z0
http://web.archive.org/web/20081113113036/http://www.hautparleur.fr/_audax/hmz1700.jpg
http://web.archive.org/web/20081112200339/http://www.hautparleur.fr/_audax/hmz1700-a.jpg
http://web.archive.org/web/20081111194832/http://www.hautparleur.fr/_audax/hmz1700-b.jpg
http://web.archive.org/web/20081111200451/http://www.hautparleur.fr/_audax/kita651.jpg
----
HM130Z0
http://web.archive.org/web/20081111194530/http://www.hautparleur.fr/_audax/kita851a.jpg
http://web.archive.org/web/20081111031959/http://www.hautparleur.fr/_audax/kita851b.jpg
http://web.archive.org/web/20080528195009/http://www.hautparleur.fr/
HM170Z0
http://web.archive.org/web/20081113113036/http://www.hautparleur.fr/_audax/hmz1700.jpg
http://web.archive.org/web/20081112200339/http://www.hautparleur.fr/_audax/hmz1700-a.jpg
http://web.archive.org/web/20081111194832/http://www.hautparleur.fr/_audax/hmz1700-b.jpg
http://web.archive.org/web/20081111200451/http://www.hautparleur.fr/_audax/kita651.jpg
----
HM130Z0
http://web.archive.org/web/20081111194530/http://www.hautparleur.fr/_audax/kita851a.jpg
http://web.archive.org/web/20081111031959/http://www.hautparleur.fr/_audax/kita851b.jpg
Thanks for the good advice, but I'm giving up on the Audax drivers and going with a Dayton RS180P-8 instead, it has a better bass response and twice the xmax. It will be a 2 way with the ScanSpeak H2606/9200 If anybody wants the Audax drivers they can have them for free, I will even pay shipping to the lower 48.
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