DanWiggins said:OK, even I'm repulsed by that visual...🙂
Dan,
I'm not sure it's my cup of tea either, but I refuse to be judgemental. That's what diversity is all about, allowing all facets of opinion, from those of normal people to the extreme wacko's. Don't be afraid to seek authenticity by releasing you inner weirdo.
😀
Best Regards,
TerryO
DanWiggins said:So it's named - Dakini!
Excellent!

Maybe this thread should be closed before it degenerates any further. You guys.

Tim,
How does Dankini compare to your Ruby?
I should have the parts coming Friday to build Dankini, probably before I ever finish the Kit 2641.
I have been very happy with LCRs across the front. So, I'm curious to hear Dankini, good name and the 2641 and Ruby's (always loved Hiquphon).
Al
How does Dankini compare to your Ruby?
I should have the parts coming Friday to build Dankini, probably before I ever finish the Kit 2641.
I have been very happy with LCRs across the front. So, I'm curious to hear Dankini, good name and the 2641 and Ruby's (always loved Hiquphon).
Al
Greetings everyone-
So it took me a little longer to finish my Dakinis that I thought, but they are playing now. I'm really happy with the results. My 110watt tube amp is driving the you know what out of them!! I'm having a couple friends over in a few days and I will post some listening notes then.
Nate
So it took me a little longer to finish my Dakinis that I thought, but they are playing now. I'm really happy with the results. My 110watt tube amp is driving the you know what out of them!! I'm having a couple friends over in a few days and I will post some listening notes then.
Nate
Baffle
I am curious if anyone has built the baffle a little bit thicker than the 3/4" design. I was considering trying a 1" - 1 1/4" design. Anyone have any input on this?
I am curious if anyone has built the baffle a little bit thicker than the 3/4" design. I was considering trying a 1" - 1 1/4" design. Anyone have any input on this?
I'll probably build a new set of cabinets in the next six months or so that incorporate a thicker baffle- maybe even a couple constrained layers of mdf, carbon fiber, and some other material....
nate
nate
What about bracing for the woofer motors as done with the SL Orion?
Nate, any plans to add a woofer to cover below 60Hz?
Nate, any plans to add a woofer to cover below 60Hz?
Hi Al,
I'm not very concerned with bracing the woofer motors right now, though I may change my mind later on. 😉
With the new cabinets I will probably focus on a ridgid and well damped baffle. It just seems to me that the 3/4" mdf used in my cabinets seems to be a little floppy for this application. I think that a less resonant baffle might clean up the small amount of ripeness, bloat, and loss of definition in the low end that I'm getting with the 3/4" mdf.
With my setup I'm getting plenty of bass below 60Hz, but a sub would be nice for some music. If you plan on being in the North Seattle/Greenlake area give me a ring and you can hear the DDRs in action. you can send me a private message at chiconate@hotmail.com
Nate
I'm not very concerned with bracing the woofer motors right now, though I may change my mind later on. 😉
With the new cabinets I will probably focus on a ridgid and well damped baffle. It just seems to me that the 3/4" mdf used in my cabinets seems to be a little floppy for this application. I think that a less resonant baffle might clean up the small amount of ripeness, bloat, and loss of definition in the low end that I'm getting with the 3/4" mdf.
With my setup I'm getting plenty of bass below 60Hz, but a sub would be nice for some music. If you plan on being in the North Seattle/Greenlake area give me a ring and you can hear the DDRs in action. you can send me a private message at chiconate@hotmail.com
Nate
Re: Baffle
I've examined my Dakinis pretty closely, in action, and have no concerns WRT the specified 3/4" baffles, which vibrate very little, even when playing at high levels, although I expect that mine may be quite a little bit stiffer than a bare MDF version, for 4 reasons:
the walnut veneer glued over the entire front surface area,
the mahogany frame glued and nailed around the entire baffle,
and the base, also of 3/4" MDF, which supports the bottom edge in a snug channel,
and which provides 2 backstays, affixed with pocket screws to the rear of the baffle.
The bases sit on spikes, which also allows me to tilt them to suit. They're currently just about vertical, toed in about 5 degrees, and 8' apart and away. At 100+ hours, I think I can call them broken in, and they sound Great.
I'm working on a pair of TL subs to complement them, but I've been cautioned that it's probably suboptimal to try to exactly colocate the Dakinis with the subs, because they couple to the room quite differently, so we'll see how that all goes. We're pretty happy with things as they stand. Played Dimeola's Consequence of Chaos the other night, for the first time, and subs would have added nothing to the mix.
I just took delivery of an Alembic baritone, so I'm going to be distracted for a while, building an F2B-clone preamp for it...
Arkudos said:I am curious if anyone has built the baffle a little bit thicker than the 3/4" design. I was considering trying a 1" - 1 1/4" design. Anyone have any input on this?
I've examined my Dakinis pretty closely, in action, and have no concerns WRT the specified 3/4" baffles, which vibrate very little, even when playing at high levels, although I expect that mine may be quite a little bit stiffer than a bare MDF version, for 4 reasons:
the walnut veneer glued over the entire front surface area,
the mahogany frame glued and nailed around the entire baffle,
and the base, also of 3/4" MDF, which supports the bottom edge in a snug channel,
and which provides 2 backstays, affixed with pocket screws to the rear of the baffle.
The bases sit on spikes, which also allows me to tilt them to suit. They're currently just about vertical, toed in about 5 degrees, and 8' apart and away. At 100+ hours, I think I can call them broken in, and they sound Great.
I'm working on a pair of TL subs to complement them, but I've been cautioned that it's probably suboptimal to try to exactly colocate the Dakinis with the subs, because they couple to the room quite differently, so we'll see how that all goes. We're pretty happy with things as they stand. Played Dimeola's Consequence of Chaos the other night, for the first time, and subs would have added nothing to the mix.
I just took delivery of an Alembic baritone, so I'm going to be distracted for a while, building an F2B-clone preamp for it...
I'm working on a pair of TL subs to complement them, but I've been cautioned that it's probably suboptimal to try to exactly colocate the Dakinis with the subs, because they couple to the room quite differently, so we'll see how that all goes.
It all went very well for me as you can read here ! 😉
Hey Z33,
I bet your cabinets perform much better than mine. My cabs are just a single layer of 3/4" mdf. I do have large triangular pieces that connect to the base and the baffle, but these only damp the bottom 1/2 of the baffle.
Please keep us posted on your subs!
Nate
I bet your cabinets perform much better than mine. My cabs are just a single layer of 3/4" mdf. I do have large triangular pieces that connect to the base and the baffle, but these only damp the bottom 1/2 of the baffle.
Please keep us posted on your subs!
Nate
nate said:Hey Z33,
I bet your cabinets perform much better than mine. My cabs are just a single layer of 3/4" mdf. I do have large triangular pieces that connect to the base and the baffle, but these only damp the bottom 1/2 of the baffle.
Please keep us posted on your subs!
Nate
I've got heavy damping material that I was ready to apply to the rear of the baffles if the need arose, but the baffles as built seem quite stable, and I used no gasket material for either the Extremii or Neo3, so the masses are tightly coupled.
I've come across a pair of TL geometries, combined with dipoles, that may become useful. One appears in a commercial effort called a Panga:
http://www.angelfire.com/biz/davidson/index.html
The other is a diy that I mentioned before, that trades height for depth:
http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/nuukspot/decdun/loudspeakers5.html
With either of these designs, the narrow profile of the Dakinis would be preserved, although I'm not averse to independently locating the TLs if necessary. I'm at best still a few weeks away from an initial test box, but I'm thinking along lines that converge these two: a Dakini-wide, Dakini-high folded TL with side exhaust(s). We'll see. I'm not very satisfied with any of my models, yet.

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