Hi All,
Thought I'd share my successful Open Baffle speaker project with everyone. I used WILD BURRO AUDIO LABS Betsy's for my full range and Eminence Beta15A for the low frequency. mounted in 24 x 38 baffles. I Bi-Amped the speakers feeding the Betsy with my AVA Ultralinier 35 watt tube amp and the 15A with an Emotiva UPA-200. The Amps are feed by a dbx 234 electronic cross over set at 200 hz. This allows perfect selection of X and individual levels.
Unsure of what to expect I just built prototypes, dang it, now I can start over and make them look as good as they sound... So good they permanently replaced my Paradigm Studio 100's.
Ed
PS They are pitched back 5 deg for full range axis alignment at my listening position...
Thought I'd share my successful Open Baffle speaker project with everyone. I used WILD BURRO AUDIO LABS Betsy's for my full range and Eminence Beta15A for the low frequency. mounted in 24 x 38 baffles. I Bi-Amped the speakers feeding the Betsy with my AVA Ultralinier 35 watt tube amp and the 15A with an Emotiva UPA-200. The Amps are feed by a dbx 234 electronic cross over set at 200 hz. This allows perfect selection of X and individual levels.
Unsure of what to expect I just built prototypes, dang it, now I can start over and make them look as good as they sound... So good they permanently replaced my Paradigm Studio 100's.
Ed
PS They are pitched back 5 deg for full range axis alignment at my listening position...
Attachments
http://www.quarter-wave.com/OBs/OB_Design.pdf
Hi, In theory you need offset x/o points due to baffle hump, rgds, sreten.
Hi, In theory you need offset x/o points due to baffle hump, rgds, sreten.
I though so also that's why I got a 3 channel dbx that is capable of that...... It has NOT proved to be an accurate theory.
In theory, and in practice, you need loads of EQ to get anywhere close to an acceptable frequency response.
I also designed and built my own pre-amp its capable of frequency slope adjustment. See attachment. Like I said the Studio 100's are in the closet.... They have more than acceptable response, detailed bass, strong base punch when cranked, make you weep mids and acceptable top. The active Xover BiAmping is the secret IMHO.
As always, these sound awesome to my ears in my house with my equipment.
Attachments
Congratulations on your build ..... very nice ..... 😎
I have built dozens of open baffle speakers using the Betsy drivers and absolutely love the Betsy. It is one of the most "musical" drivers I have ever heard at any cost.
My "theory" of audio is the old saw ..... "if it sounds good, it IS good".
I have had many visitors to my listening room (musicians and music lovers) and they all think the Betsy drivers sound wonderful in the speakers I have built.
Best wishes and happy listening,
Randy
I have built dozens of open baffle speakers using the Betsy drivers and absolutely love the Betsy. It is one of the most "musical" drivers I have ever heard at any cost.
My "theory" of audio is the old saw ..... "if it sounds good, it IS good".
I have had many visitors to my listening room (musicians and music lovers) and they all think the Betsy drivers sound wonderful in the speakers I have built.
Best wishes and happy listening,
Randy
Thanks for sharing all this, your speaks look great! I have spent the last week trying to decide what the Non-Prototypes should look like...... Its driving me nuts! Do you think MDF adds any benefit over Birch plywood?
> In theory, and in practice, you need loads of EQ to get
> anywhere close to an acceptable frequency response.
NOT if you have :
1) large enough baffle
2) high enough Qts
3) high enough Fs ( Yes ! HIGH enough that the baffle can augment the Q )
> anywhere close to an acceptable frequency response.
NOT if you have :
1) large enough baffle
2) high enough Qts
3) high enough Fs ( Yes ! HIGH enough that the baffle can augment the Q )
I can't really give any advice on open baffles made from MDF ..... all of my builds have been either plywood or various hardwoods. I can say that EVERYTHING matters if your front end and amplification is sufficiently resolving.
IMHO, hitsware is absolutely correct ..... and I would add that the distance of the driver from the floor as well as the placement of the baffles in relation to the front and side walls can make a huge difference.
I have heard a pair of Betsy drivers in baffles that were 4' x 4' and the bass produced by those speakers would cave your chest in with just a few watts of power ..... 😉
It was not something that I would have believed if I hadn't heard it myself.
Experimentation is half the fun of the journey .....
Have fun with your final build,
Randy
IMHO, hitsware is absolutely correct ..... and I would add that the distance of the driver from the floor as well as the placement of the baffles in relation to the front and side walls can make a huge difference.
I have heard a pair of Betsy drivers in baffles that were 4' x 4' and the bass produced by those speakers would cave your chest in with just a few watts of power ..... 😉
It was not something that I would have believed if I hadn't heard it myself.
Experimentation is half the fun of the journey .....
Have fun with your final build,
Randy
I can't really give any advice on open baffles made from MDF ..... all of my builds have been either plywood or various hardwoods. I can say that EVERYTHING matters if your front end and amplification is sufficiently resolving.
IMHO, hitsware is absolutely correct ..... and I would add that the distance of the driver from the floor as well as the placement of the baffles in relation to the front and side walls can make a huge difference.
I have heard a pair of Betsy drivers in baffles that were 4' x 4' and the bass produced by those speakers would cave your chest in with just a few watts of power ..... 😉
It was not something that I would have believed if I hadn't heard it myself.
Experimentation is half the fun of the journey .....
Have fun with your final build,
Randy
One of these 2 designs will be the final build, having a discussion on the full range forum on outrigger dimensions.
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