Please reread my post as I edited it at least 10 times. English is not my mother language so mistakes have to be corrected while it's possible. You did not offend me at all.
A few hundred of one the finest cap types available ? Use them for bypassing electrolytics if you like. Better 10 nF Styro than 100 nF MKT 😀 My qualification of PS may cause some debate, not everybody is as satisfied with them. Nobody will disagree that they are better than MKT though. They are very good in filter stages like in cd players and have low tolerances too. You can replace the ceramics used in these stages by PS is they have the same values. You'll hear the difference. Cheap ceramics have a with voltage varying capacitance and their tolerance is not good either ( with classic ceramics that is ).
Use the PS caps only if their working voltage is OK for the application and if they are fysically small. Why this ? The very large ones can only be soldered with long lead wires and are susceptable to stray RF in the player ( antenna ! ). Keep leads short and don't overheat them as they are damaged quite quickly.
I agree with Jorge 200 % after rereading the posts. You really have to be knowing what you're doing. The risk of the damaging the device in question or maybe even yourself is always close. But then again I started the wrong way too...
A few hundred of one the finest cap types available ? Use them for bypassing electrolytics if you like. Better 10 nF Styro than 100 nF MKT 😀 My qualification of PS may cause some debate, not everybody is as satisfied with them. Nobody will disagree that they are better than MKT though. They are very good in filter stages like in cd players and have low tolerances too. You can replace the ceramics used in these stages by PS is they have the same values. You'll hear the difference. Cheap ceramics have a with voltage varying capacitance and their tolerance is not good either ( with classic ceramics that is ).
Use the PS caps only if their working voltage is OK for the application and if they are fysically small. Why this ? The very large ones can only be soldered with long lead wires and are susceptable to stray RF in the player ( antenna ! ). Keep leads short and don't overheat them as they are damaged quite quickly.
Practice without theory is not to good...
Theory without practice...the same..
Add the two...and you are a winner!!
I agree with Jorge 200 % after rereading the posts. You really have to be knowing what you're doing. The risk of the damaging the device in question or maybe even yourself is always close. But then again I started the wrong way too...
Jean-paul/Tube_Dude,
I will take your advice and try to read some books and learn a bit more of the basics.
Without newbies like me on this forum what would the experienced guys do with their time?
I will install my Nichicon Muse 10uf and 10nf polystyrene and let you know if it does not work. (OK, I will not use the bipolar muse)
Also, If longer leads are used on caps for bypassing, I understand they may become an 'antenna'. Could a ferrite bead help here?
Thanks
KevinLee🙂
I will take your advice and try to read some books and learn a bit more of the basics.
Without newbies like me on this forum what would the experienced guys do with their time?

I will install my Nichicon Muse 10uf and 10nf polystyrene and let you know if it does not work. (OK, I will not use the bipolar muse)
Also, If longer leads are used on caps for bypassing, I understand they may become an 'antenna'. Could a ferrite bead help here?
Thanks
KevinLee🙂
Oh, I just understood that the MUSE you have are bipolar. Most bipolars are 2 caps in series and thus their ESR ( resistance ) is higher. At this spot that's something that will not give as good results as we want.
Reread posts please. Forget about beads on leadwires of caps in these applications. Just keep wires short. Good night !
Every good boy...deserves favour!!!
Ok!!.. you have promise to read some books!!Fine!!
The ferrite bead couldn't help here...the problem with long leads is because any capacitor as a ressonance frequency( frequency at it began to not behave as a capacitor)...and that frequency depends of the capacitor type...capacitor construction and dimentions of the leads...
Longer leads lower frequency...
Not a begineers issue...😉
Ok!!.. you have promise to read some books!!Fine!!

Also, If longer leads are used on caps for bypassing, I understand they may become an 'antenna'. Could a ferrite bead help here
The ferrite bead couldn't help here...the problem with long leads is because any capacitor as a ressonance frequency( frequency at it began to not behave as a capacitor)...and that frequency depends of the capacitor type...capacitor construction and dimentions of the leads...
Longer leads lower frequency...
Not a begineers issue...😉
Hello,
I bypassed the op-amps V+ & V- to ground with a .01uf polystyrene and a 10uf elna electrolitic (this is all I had).
Things seem to be working ok.
I will get some better caps and replace the above when I can.
Thanks
Kevin
I bypassed the op-amps V+ & V- to ground with a .01uf polystyrene and a 10uf elna electrolitic (this is all I had).
Things seem to be working ok.
I will get some better caps and replace the above when I can.
Thanks
Kevin
Hi Kevin,
Forget the tantalums!
I usually bypass with 100 uf to 330 uf, and 0.1 uf polyester or ceramic from + to ground, and - to ground.
I always bypass between + and - with a 0.1uf ceramic or polyester too.
Please do it, and try the LM6172 again, it gives excelent results with Marantz cd-players 😎 .
Cheers
Forget the tantalums!

I usually bypass with 100 uf to 330 uf, and 0.1 uf polyester or ceramic from + to ground, and - to ground.
I always bypass between + and - with a 0.1uf ceramic or polyester too.
Please do it, and try the LM6172 again, it gives excelent results with Marantz cd-players 😎 .
Cheers
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