Hi everyone,
I've seen people at other forums upgrade to LED. But how?? I have no experience in soldering 🙁 I'm thinking of using these: Tiny Prewired Super Bright Surface Mount LEDs - 12V DIY Plug and Play SMT LED
I've seen people at other forums upgrade to LED. But how?? I have no experience in soldering 🙁 I'm thinking of using these: Tiny Prewired Super Bright Surface Mount LEDs - 12V DIY Plug and Play SMT LED
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Assuming the lamp feed is DC, all you have to do is connect the correct polarity and there you are but I would check the circuit first as some of these use the lamp as a regulator supply.
This might be tricky if those bulbs are in series, and it looks like they are. Also, you don't know if they're AC or DC. Looks to me like, from the supply cable, ground in the middle and AC on either side. You are going to have to measure voltage across each bulb and let us know what you find before further advice can be given, I think.
Hi Jon,
I'm fairly new to these things, so I apologize if I'm unable to understand. Is there anyway you could possibly dumb it down for me? 😛
I really want to install these LED's!
Cheers,
Lioh
You'll need a DMM to measure the voltage across each lamp. Try both AC (~) and DC (---).
Maybe you will find something like 7 ACV (more or less). By providing this information, we can help you attaching the LEDs.
how to measure voltage - YouTube
Maybe you will find something like 7 ACV (more or less). By providing this information, we can help you attaching the LEDs.
how to measure voltage - YouTube
Or try to get information from the schematics, here:
ONKYO M-504 SM Service Manual free download, schematics, eeprom, repair info for electronics
From the circuit, we can see they are parts PL881 ~ PL884, part number 210191A, PL14V 150mA (green), both paralleled in each channel, DC driven (12.6V) via R725 (4.7 ohms, 2W resistor). You will need, for example, a 3-LED segment from a 12 volt-LED strip (or more, if more brightness is needed).
Of course, those tiny bright LEDs you mentioned above are OK to fit directly into the circuit (just invert poles if they don't turn on). If they get too bright, just raise the value of R725, until getting the desired results.
Good luck!
ONKYO M-504 SM Service Manual free download, schematics, eeprom, repair info for electronics
From the circuit, we can see they are parts PL881 ~ PL884, part number 210191A, PL14V 150mA (green), both paralleled in each channel, DC driven (12.6V) via R725 (4.7 ohms, 2W resistor). You will need, for example, a 3-LED segment from a 12 volt-LED strip (or more, if more brightness is needed).
Of course, those tiny bright LEDs you mentioned above are OK to fit directly into the circuit (just invert poles if they don't turn on). If they get too bright, just raise the value of R725, until getting the desired results.
Good luck!
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Another thing to note: LED bulbs are very directional compared to light bulbs, which spread light evenly. You'll have to make sure you point those things down toward what you want to illuminate, in all likelihood. Depending on the LEDs.
What about placing the LEDs behind the bulbs, without removing them (only desabling their supply)? I think they would spread the light as intended.
I have done a few led conversions myself on some Marantz receivers, and other components and vehicles.
The biggest issue I encountered with leds where hot spots of light because the light is so directional and focused.
In most cases I modded a typical 5mm 13Kmcd led like shown in the photo, filed the top flat and roughed up the sides with a fine file or sandpaper, it really helped to reduce the light blooms.
A good new light mask also helps spread the light, I picked up some good filter mask material off of eBay.
You also need to keep in mind that if you are after a particular color or trying to match the oem look, the final display color depends on the color temperature of the oem bulb combined with whatever filters or masks the light has to go through.
The incandescent bulbs are closer to warm white (3000K) than cool light (5000K).
You also can choose larger current limiting resistor values to cut brightness as well, to help match the oem look.
Be careful when using color leds, sometimes the colors can be too intense, almost fluorescent in appearance.
The farther back you can keep the led from the mask or filter, the lesser the chance of a hot spot too.
Make sure you test it out before you close everything up, in the daylight and night time.
The biggest issue I encountered with leds where hot spots of light because the light is so directional and focused.
In most cases I modded a typical 5mm 13Kmcd led like shown in the photo, filed the top flat and roughed up the sides with a fine file or sandpaper, it really helped to reduce the light blooms.
A good new light mask also helps spread the light, I picked up some good filter mask material off of eBay.
You also need to keep in mind that if you are after a particular color or trying to match the oem look, the final display color depends on the color temperature of the oem bulb combined with whatever filters or masks the light has to go through.
The incandescent bulbs are closer to warm white (3000K) than cool light (5000K).
You also can choose larger current limiting resistor values to cut brightness as well, to help match the oem look.
Be careful when using color leds, sometimes the colors can be too intense, almost fluorescent in appearance.
The farther back you can keep the led from the mask or filter, the lesser the chance of a hot spot too.
Make sure you test it out before you close everything up, in the daylight and night time.
Attachments
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Where would I plug in the LED lights?
Someone said this was a bad idea, but I don't see what's bad about it.
This has to be one of the most difficult electronics project to take on with the expectation of getting uniform spread and similar colour to the original. It's a nice, trendy idea, but usually, that's all.
Over about 30 years, I've been tinkering with LED illumination for VU meters, fascias, tuning dials and pointers, you name it in all ages of equipment from 1930s radios to high-end showpieces. It doesn't matter what you try, every LED has a limited field of narrow bandwidth emission which needs multiple LEDS, optical lenses or coatings for diffusion. Lack of diffusion is the problem. SMD LEDs certainly have lenses too but the results are still not good for desirable soft, wide angle illumination.
Some comments here: Light-emitting diode - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Well, I've already told you (in post #6):
" ... those tiny bright LEDs you mentioned above are OK to fit directly into the circuit (just invert poles if they don't turn on). If they get too bright, just raise the value of R725, until getting the desired results".
This means you must plug that 12V tiny bright LED directly on both legs of one of the lamps (e.g. 1 LED per lamp). As LEDs are pole-sensitive, if not lit, then simply invert the poles. Being a 12V device, there's no fear in just plugging them directly to the circuit.
Good luck!
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