Got it Madis, thank you!
You're totally right Mooly!
I have tested all 4 opamps with my ESP p06 phono preamo and it's 1 of them
which is giving trouble.
I have located the "bad" opamp and further troubleshooting has began.
Well, for starters...
...I should have soldered all of the 8 pins of the opamp to the browndog adapter, right? 😱
see photo for your own amusement...
You're totally right Mooly!
I have tested all 4 opamps with my ESP p06 phono preamo and it's 1 of them
which is giving trouble.
I have located the "bad" opamp and further troubleshooting has began.
Well, for starters...
...I should have soldered all of the 8 pins of the opamp to the browndog adapter, right? 😱
see photo for your own amusement...
Attachments
Interesting project 👍
I'm thinking of doing some Opamps rolling soon and was wondering what those sockets are called to place discreet Opamps?
@Safe1...glad you like the NE5532's, always been a fan of those classics.
I'm thinking of doing some Opamps rolling soon and was wondering what those sockets are called to place discreet Opamps?
@Safe1...glad you like the NE5532's, always been a fan of those classics.
DIP 8 sockets with golden and turned pins?
https://www.mouser.ee/ProductDetail/Mill-Max/110-13-308-41-001000?qs=WZeyYeqMOWeYjIS4tXLt7Q==
https://www.mouser.ee/ProductDetail/Mill-Max/110-13-308-41-001000?qs=WZeyYeqMOWeYjIS4tXLt7Q==
Hi Stewart,
they sounded much better than those NJMs this CD player had inside.
I'm going to try more though.
I did not like at all NE5532s in any of my Muffsy and Elliot's ESP P06 phono stages, flat sound, no soundstage, details missing which I knew they were there in the LP.
I have finally settled with ESP P06 and Texas Instruments opa1656 .
Those opa1656 are pure musical bliss, sonic nirvana. Tried to beat it with AD823, AD8620, ADA4625-2 it was not possible.
Let alone the rest of the Texas Instruments op amps against opa1656... They have not a single chance to win.
🙂
Very interesting. I feel it's all about suiting the equipment and personal preference. I don't think using one particular everywhere is best.
I have a Marantz CD75 I want to play with and I'm lead to believe discreet Opamps have made good improvements over classic chips
I have a Marantz CD75 I want to play with and I'm lead to believe discreet Opamps have made good improvements over classic chips
That's what I see as well.
SOIC to DIP is what I thought was meant.
https://cpc.farnell.com/proto-advan...o-dip-8-smt-adaptor/dp/PC02477?st=soic to dip
https://cpc.farnell.com/aries/lcqt-soic8-8/prototyping-adaptor-8-soic-to/dp/PC02100?st=soic to dip
Thanks Mooly. They will be needed too. I would of asked anyway tbh. 🤔 I also mispelt discrete 😒
I hope you're well.
I hope you're well.
I had very recently swapped the discussed NJM4560 at the output stage of an Onkyo tuner in search of a possibly better subjective result. Stands after the PLL FM MPX Stereo Demodulator IC with low pass filters in cans and a wired 3.3K volume pot in between. There are Sanyo coupling caps before each channel's filter and at the audio outputs. As well as Nichicon BP local area rail reservoirs/decouplers in the vicinity.
I tried many types, NE5532 and OPA1656 included. The NJM4580D reminded the original sound of NJM4560D but with some treble oddity. The Texas NE5532 was more alive in the mids but without equally strong and detailed bass or depth. The original showed a dry midrange though. The NJM2068DD was on a par with the NE5532. Interestingly better than both was the uPC4570C. Cleaner and more dynamic. OPA2604 was nice but bit dark without enough top and bottom extremes. AD823 was nicer. OPA1656 was a clear cut above all those until the LM4562 went in. This one suited the tuner best for classical with bigger stage dimensions while keeping the original signature details and depth but fleshing out the lower midrange. Surprisingly the unrelated OPA2134 came second best while friendlier to more genres. The LM833 finished last having a problem sounding like broken. Probably RFI escaping from the low pass filters or some pilot tone remain upset it. OPA2156 came second last sounding lean and wiry. Maybe too fast for this layout.
As a conclusion, we can never generally tell. Each application has a favorite.
I tried many types, NE5532 and OPA1656 included. The NJM4580D reminded the original sound of NJM4560D but with some treble oddity. The Texas NE5532 was more alive in the mids but without equally strong and detailed bass or depth. The original showed a dry midrange though. The NJM2068DD was on a par with the NE5532. Interestingly better than both was the uPC4570C. Cleaner and more dynamic. OPA2604 was nice but bit dark without enough top and bottom extremes. AD823 was nicer. OPA1656 was a clear cut above all those until the LM4562 went in. This one suited the tuner best for classical with bigger stage dimensions while keeping the original signature details and depth but fleshing out the lower midrange. Surprisingly the unrelated OPA2134 came second best while friendlier to more genres. The LM833 finished last having a problem sounding like broken. Probably RFI escaping from the low pass filters or some pilot tone remain upset it. OPA2156 came second last sounding lean and wiry. Maybe too fast for this layout.
As a conclusion, we can never generally tell. Each application has a favorite.
Attachments
Good input Salas.
Are you planning on replacing those old Nichicon Muse caps?
I've always found them to be very leaky nowadays.
I'd also get rid of that glue on the board, probably my paranoia on it becoming conductive though
Are you planning on replacing those old Nichicon Muse caps?
I've always found them to be very leaky nowadays.
I'd also get rid of that glue on the board, probably my paranoia on it becoming conductive though
Tried them all with onboard capable ESR meters and they hold greatly in this unit. The glue can be toxic to wire jumpers but not in all cases. I have seen it eating away wires in Yamaha and Luxman. Different glues it seems.
That's good to hear they're all good. To be fair I usually find those in amps so a warmer environment.
I take note of the glue in Yamaha and Luxman. Still never seen a Luxman yet as they're not so popular here.
NAD and Cambridge Audio are terrible for lead corroding glue FME
I take note of the glue in Yamaha and Luxman. Still never seen a Luxman yet as they're not so popular here.
NAD and Cambridge Audio are terrible for lead corroding glue FME
@safe1:
I'd definitely have a play about lowing the value of the blocking caps on the output as suggested earlier. They are only there to block any DC and it's likely there's none there anyway.
I've just replaced the ones in my old Marantz CD75, they had two 100uF 25v Elna Cerefines tied together at both negative ends making them bipolar in the circuit. Two 100uF equal 50uF here and I replaced with a 10uF Nichicon Muse BP.
It's totally changed it's sound. Much warmer, less musical. I prefer a warmer sound though so I'm good.
I've got some 5uF Claritycap polypropylene caps I'll try next time I get in it (and probably start my own thread to stop hijacking yours) 😊
I'd definitely have a play about lowing the value of the blocking caps on the output as suggested earlier. They are only there to block any DC and it's likely there's none there anyway.
I've just replaced the ones in my old Marantz CD75, they had two 100uF 25v Elna Cerefines tied together at both negative ends making them bipolar in the circuit. Two 100uF equal 50uF here and I replaced with a 10uF Nichicon Muse BP.
It's totally changed it's sound. Much warmer, less musical. I prefer a warmer sound though so I'm good.
I've got some 5uF Claritycap polypropylene caps I'll try next time I get in it (and probably start my own thread to stop hijacking yours) 😊
