Hello diyAudio community,
I was amazed by just looking in your projects as a guest a i decided to join the community and would like to do some diy myself.
I'm trying to mod the DX-710 that my father left me, i would like to change the power transformer and the old cd reader(player/lens) that is giving me some problems while reading the discs (skipping, rewinding).
I have so many questions.
Which characteristics do i need to look for the correct power transformer?
Can i replace the cd reader(player) to any other model or do i need to replace it from the same model? Should i be careful about which lens i'm going to buy for it?
I've found some toroidal transformers on aliexpress but i don't know if it's compatible with the Onkyo DX-710
This is the one i found
About the cd reader(player) replacement i haven't got any idea on how to pick the right one and i really hope with your help i will managed to replace it.
I can't just let it die
Thank you everyone for any help!
(Power Transformer Scheme)
I was amazed by just looking in your projects as a guest a i decided to join the community and would like to do some diy myself.
I'm trying to mod the DX-710 that my father left me, i would like to change the power transformer and the old cd reader(player/lens) that is giving me some problems while reading the discs (skipping, rewinding).
I have so many questions.
Which characteristics do i need to look for the correct power transformer?
Can i replace the cd reader(player) to any other model or do i need to replace it from the same model? Should i be careful about which lens i'm going to buy for it?
I've found some toroidal transformers on aliexpress but i don't know if it's compatible with the Onkyo DX-710
This is the one i found
About the cd reader(player) replacement i haven't got any idea on how to pick the right one and i really hope with your help i will managed to replace it.
I can't just let it die
Thank you everyone for any help!
(Power Transformer Scheme)
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There is some rust inside the power transformer and even inside the bobine/cable
If it's custom probably i can't replace it...
I was looking in this other thread and safe1 did a superb job with soldering and trying new opamps.
I've already 2x burson vivid 6 dual to try on this Onkyo, are they compatible?
I was reading in the safe1's thread that every opamp have different voltage, are the burson compatible or should i go with the ones that he mentioned?
Main priority for now is the cd reader(lens) and the power transformer, then i will play around opamps
If it's custom probably i can't replace it...
I was looking in this other thread and safe1 did a superb job with soldering and trying new opamps.
I've already 2x burson vivid 6 dual to try on this Onkyo, are they compatible?
I was reading in the safe1's thread that every opamp have different voltage, are the burson compatible or should i go with the ones that he mentioned?
Main priority for now is the cd reader(lens) and the power transformer, then i will play around opamps
For something you can replace for $20, you are taking a lot of trouble.
Clean the CD lens, clean off the rust, put varnish where the rust is removed.
Tell us which op amps are there already, may be good enough, no need to replace.
And also let us know how experienced you are, this is not a basic job.
Clean the CD lens, clean off the rust, put varnish where the rust is removed.
Tell us which op amps are there already, may be good enough, no need to replace.
And also let us know how experienced you are, this is not a basic job.
The opamps are the JRC4560DX (the image is from safe1)
I've no problems with soldering/desoldering, i already tried to clean the lens in the past and it didn't fix the skipping/rewinding
It's possible to mod the isolation transformer or is it a no go?
The cd player should be replaced aswell (or the lens)
I've no problems with soldering/desoldering, i already tried to clean the lens in the past and it didn't fix the skipping/rewinding
It's possible to mod the isolation transformer or is it a no go?
The cd player should be replaced aswell (or the lens)
Attachments
Unless transformer didn't cause real problems, forget zbout it. You can try to clean it somehow, enen put some varnish after that, everything probably will be waste of time/resources. If you still insist doing something on it, build entirely new PSU from scratch and hope it will be nearly as good as old one.
Check the supply voltages...if OK, leave it alone, maybe clean the rust.
No need to bother with power supply. China not near Japan in quality.
As for lens problems, describe them in a fresh post in the Digital Source sub - forum here.
Before doing that, do a search, the problem may have been solved already.
No need to bother with power supply. China not near Japan in quality.
As for lens problems, describe them in a fresh post in the Digital Source sub - forum here.
Before doing that, do a search, the problem may have been solved already.
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Change the entire mechanism?
Or buy another complete set for less money.
I got pulled DVD writers for silly money here, $4 for IDE and $5.5 for SATA connector styles, now of course almost no computers come with them.
Brand new they are about $20 here, LG, HP, others.
Your mileage may vary.
Better buy another set if it is beyond your skills, and sell it (or use it) as a parts machine.
Or buy another complete set for less money.
I got pulled DVD writers for silly money here, $4 for IDE and $5.5 for SATA connector styles, now of course almost no computers come with them.
Brand new they are about $20 here, LG, HP, others.
Your mileage may vary.
Better buy another set if it is beyond your skills, and sell it (or use it) as a parts machine.
Thank you very much for this info, i was so sure that i could not change the whole dvd/cd reader/writer, could you suggest someone of provide atleast a reference link to something similar like the Onkyo?
Attachments
He meant replace the whole mech (like for like), but the problem still remains , the "new" mech needs setup with the aid of a scope.
You can't replace the mech with some other random mech, it has to be a 210 based mech (with the exact same chassis - there a few different variants)
Japanese sets used Sony and Philips mechanisms a lot, Toshiba also made them.
They were a bought out part, so many Japanese makers made CD players, but the mechanisms were pretty nearly purchased as a bought out item, as it allowed economies of scale.
So you can start with the hint that it was a 210 based mechanism.
And a word of advice, I would rip all my CDs to Hard disk or cloud, and use a memory stick to play the music.
Simply because CD have a limited shelf life, above 5 years if you are lucky in our climate.
They were a bought out part, so many Japanese makers made CD players, but the mechanisms were pretty nearly purchased as a bought out item, as it allowed economies of scale.
So you can start with the hint that it was a 210 based mechanism.
And a word of advice, I would rip all my CDs to Hard disk or cloud, and use a memory stick to play the music.
Simply because CD have a limited shelf life, above 5 years if you are lucky in our climate.
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Found a site that could make a custom transformer for my onkyo dx710, if anyone is interested J&K Audio Design
First check your transformer, and tell the voltages, unlikely to be blown, they have fuses and so on.
Then tell if it is really needed, after that the ratings and voltages have to be specified.
We have a shop here run by a old man (sadly, all of us seem above 45 or so), and he does good work, uses standard E I cores, makes the bobbins if needed.
No hum or heating...my standard expectation.
And no misleading labels, current ratings are guaranteed.
For a DVD player, 50 VA is enough...so a small 12V 4A is enough, or thereabouts.
Then tell if it is really needed, after that the ratings and voltages have to be specified.
We have a shop here run by a old man (sadly, all of us seem above 45 or so), and he does good work, uses standard E I cores, makes the bobbins if needed.
No hum or heating...my standard expectation.
And no misleading labels, current ratings are guaranteed.
For a DVD player, 50 VA is enough...so a small 12V 4A is enough, or thereabouts.
Japanese transformers used thinner electrical steel than most, and the overall build quality cannot be matched by anybody operating in a small workshop, because the laminations are very expensive in thin sheets, think about 5 quid a kilo in coils weighing 3.5 to 5 tons.
The thinner the steel, the lower are the hysteresis losses in the unit.
Nobody in a workshop can afford to store so much steel.
Only distribution transformer makers use that thin steel because the supply of the material used will be checked by the power companies.
The transformer losses have to be within limits, and the quantities here are huge, the local power companies buy 150,000 to 200,000 units of up to 100 kVA class every year, in my state alone.
So the supplier will get scrap from big makers, or use the cheaper thicker steel, or at worst use ordinary mild steel if the unit runs for less than an hour daily.
Then the quality and purity of the winding wire, the stacks, the type of winding, and so on also are important.
Do not mess about with the existing unit.
Save us all some trouble, buy another set, and either use this as is after repairs, or sell it as a parts unit.
Or keep it as a shelf queen.
The thinner the steel, the lower are the hysteresis losses in the unit.
Nobody in a workshop can afford to store so much steel.
Only distribution transformer makers use that thin steel because the supply of the material used will be checked by the power companies.
The transformer losses have to be within limits, and the quantities here are huge, the local power companies buy 150,000 to 200,000 units of up to 100 kVA class every year, in my state alone.
So the supplier will get scrap from big makers, or use the cheaper thicker steel, or at worst use ordinary mild steel if the unit runs for less than an hour daily.
Then the quality and purity of the winding wire, the stacks, the type of winding, and so on also are important.
Do not mess about with the existing unit.
Save us all some trouble, buy another set, and either use this as is after repairs, or sell it as a parts unit.
Or keep it as a shelf queen.
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