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(one more) ALEPH P 1.7 clone

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#341
I have a question, again...

When I measure the output of the Aleph P with a 10k pot on the input side, I measure 4.8k ohms. This is with power on and nothing connected. The unit plays allright, but is very laid back, and far more than my pc connected directly. This is when connected to my Aleph 1.2 which measures 10k on the input.
Is this normal or is something not right? I have followed the diagrams given by Veteran earlier on in this thread.

Also, I was wondering if any of these are good enough to play with?

http://eshop.diyclub.biz/product_info.php?cPath=85_187&products_id=406

http://eshop.diyclub.biz/product_info.php?cPath=85_186&products_id=217

http://eshop.diyclub.biz/product_info.php?cPath=85_186&products_id=410
 
#343
Hi Cobra2,

do you mean that the V-03 is no good? What about the v3310? Which would you recommend of the dantimax or twisted audio. I am after something with a very low output impedance/high output voltage to get my alpeh 1.2s to sing as they should 🙂

How easy are these solutions to implement? I consider myself as a novice and don't want a too difficult task.

Thanks!

F
 
#344
Vol...

The simplest, and if you want remote, I would go for dantimax, Rel.vol3 is balanced.

The output impedance of the Aleph P (1,7) is lower than your measured value, cannot be measured with only voltmeter, because of the DC-blocking caps at the output...

V3310 is a chip :dead:

Arne K
 
#350
mach.88 said:
G´day mate...

Your lucky day! As I just sent a set of to Dubai, I found that I have one final set of boards over...

It´s a set of 2 goldplated P 1.7 and one set of 2 goldplated powersupplies...

Any interest?

Cheers

Chris
Click to expand...

G'day Chris,

Yes.. much interest 🙂 I've sent you an email.

cheers
Paul
 
#352
Hey Peter,

thanks for asking but I can only scan the boards and have you work from there.

However, the layout and design is a piece of art conceived by Veteran who started all this.

If you need the gerber-files, maybe he would be willing to share them with you.

Anyhow, to be fair, I´d rather ask him for assistance.

Good luck

Chris
 
#353
What is the recommended transformer for the p1.7? I'm thinking about 160VA in total but I'm not sure what secondary V is required? I'm planning on using one transformer to supply two psu boards - or am I better off dedicating a separate transformer to each psu?

cheers
Paul
 
#354
What is the recommended transformer for the p1.7?

Let's stay realistic...Each channel of the 1.7 dissipates around 4W.
so total 8W Add another 4W for the power supply and another 2 for lights. Total would be 14W. Double that for some margine and double that again for the VA rating. That would be 56Va.

So my pick would be 50Va (what is working excellent in my P1.7)

Marcel.
 
#355
Thanks for the reality check - i'm sure I'd found posts that recommended at least that per channel for "adequate performance". Comments relating to missing bass spring to mind... that might just be the usual "if big is good, then bigger is better" factor at work.

The key question is, however, what secondary voltages?!?! Do I need to feed the power supply 80V?

pj
 
#357
Hi there!
Some questions! I made my 23 positions 10K ladder attenuator, and now I want to put it on place. What's the best, on the output or on the input. On my pcb's are 2Kpots for regulation. Can I use them to make my attenuator go lower in volume, when I put the attenuator on output? Or do I have to put the attenuator on input.
From the forum most say that output will be better, because of the mosfet noise.
Because I got an loudspeakersystem with active crossover and sepperate amplifiers for low/mid-high I think the gain will be to high. But I'm not sure. I don't want to destroy my speakers.

Thanks for the answer allready, and thanks Tarasque for the attenuator, grtz Teake
 
#358
Hi Intense-Tavda

This is a quote from Nelson about the volume control


There a three places you can put variable resistance in an
Aleph P to alter the gain

1) You can place a dual potentiometer on the inputs as a
voltage divider. (dual pot required for 1 channel balanced)

A good value for this is 10K to 25K

2) You can place a single potentiometer between the Source
pins of the Mosfets, where a good value is about 1 Kohm.

3) You can place a dual potentiometer as a resistive load at
the outputs (again 1 dual for each channel) to load the
current-source output, and here a good value is about 1 Kohm.

And of course any of these pots can be replaced by rotary
switches and resistors (use make-before-break contacts) or
relays and resistors.


Now, at first i remembered what i had read wrong, and i put my 10K pot on the Output. This worked very good and there was no noice.

Later i read the above from Nelson and i moved the pot to the Input insted.
The most difference i could here was that there where a little more noice when i moved it to the Input.


I would choose to put it on the output but i,m afraid to damage something if i put a 10k Pot there.

Maybe it is safe to do so? Could anyone explain what could happen?

/Z
 
#359
I tried a alps pot 10k on both the input and output. With my Electrocompaniet 250R it worked very good. With the Aleph 1.2s it was a disaster. However, when on the input it worked great! I am going to use a 1k relvol3 from dantimax on the output.

I think you should check the impedance on the input of your power amplifier.

I also hear more noise when installed on the input.

- F
 
#360
Hey guys,

depending on how sensitive your poweramps are, you can use a 5k or a 10k pod.

I use a 10k pod on the output just as PassLabs have done in the P 1.7.

It works great on any of my poweramps.

Check the servive manual for the preamp.

Cheers

Chris
 
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