I sorted my chattering by dropping the 2.2r to 1r, and the 1k to 700r.
Try just dropping less through the resistors, or get rid of them entirely and jumper, just watch the heat on the reg.
Edit - just noticed i misread your post. I'll whip the cover off and measure for you. Give me ten mins.
Many thanks Adamus for your info,
I used E182CC and the PSU was fine but as you see 5687's heater is much more hungry.
Have you employed 5687 for your DAC? Do you experience microphonics?
E182CC is bad for that.
Please after half hour on and while is on please give "little slaps" to the tube with your finger nails and listen if the noise comes out from your speakers.
If I do that with the E182CC I can hear it.
I show some member still need PCb of DAC so ,I will make about 10 set DAC_end 2, If you like you can write please!
thank you.
1. Strosek: full set
2. boudy : full set
3. ksnider1: full set
4. toufu : IV + Supply For IV
......
thank you.
1. Strosek: full set
2. boudy : full set
3. ksnider1: full set
4. toufu : IV + Supply For IV
......
1. Strosek: full set
2. boudy : full set
3. ksnider1: full set
4. toufu : IV + Supply For IV
5. ferrari: (IV + Supply For IV) x 2
2. boudy : full set
3. ksnider1: full set
4. toufu : IV + Supply For IV
5. ferrari: (IV + Supply For IV) x 2
Many thanks Adamus for your info,
I used E182CC and the PSU was fine but as you see 5687's heater is much more hungry.
Have you employed 5687 for your DAC? Do you experience microphonics?
E182CC is bad for that.
Please after half hour on and while is on please give "little slaps" to the tube with your finger nails and listen if the noise comes out from your speakers.
If I do that with the E182CC I can hear it.
jan phillips 5687wb = not microphonic in my case
I also have some RCA 5687's, and one is badly microphonic.
If you fancy doing some board surgery, with the 6n6p you could take a sledge hammer to it and not worry about microphonics, they are super sturdy
*******( ( ( ( E182CC MICROPHONICS ) ) ) )*****
hahaha, I like it, yes it's true. Russian stuff!!
I will try Mrs JAN 5687WB first and if it doesn't work... surgery time.
If you fancy doing some board surgery, with the 6n6p you could take a sledge hammer to it and not worry about microphonics, they are super sturdy
hahaha, I like it, yes it's true. Russian stuff!!
I will try Mrs JAN 5687WB first and if it doesn't work... surgery time.
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**LED bias mod**
I found the dac ever so slightly 'soft'. incredibly natural but just softer than the dacmagic.
so mod time...
Pull out the 470r cathode resistors
pull out the bypass caps, including the film
Match cheap yellow or green leds to 3.8v for two in series (9v battery > 1k2 resistors > led, measure voltage over led, look for closest to 1.9v, then test them in series too for 3.8.
Solder in led units in place of 470r, led anode (long leg) nearest tube.
switch on and you'll see them start to glow once the tube is warm.
Have a listen.....
to my ears, and in my opinion only, this has lifted a veil and turn this dac into a better beast. It now easily beats the dacmagic in everty department. Remember in a previous post i said the bass was big and almost too much? with the LEDs in place, the bass is still deep, but its more controlled.
Dont forget, with leds the dynamic impedance is a lot lower than the resistor, but we had the resistor bypasses, hence no negative feedback. The non-bypassed leds will be injecting a tiny amount of negative feedback. My guess is distortion will decrease because of this, hence the feeling of better bass control.
is it for everyone? maybe... if you are after that oldschool tube sound then stick with the resistor and lytics as a bypass. Want something with a bit more bite? LEDS. its not a subtle difference in my opinion.
I found the dac ever so slightly 'soft'. incredibly natural but just softer than the dacmagic.
so mod time...
Pull out the 470r cathode resistors
pull out the bypass caps, including the film
Match cheap yellow or green leds to 3.8v for two in series (9v battery > 1k2 resistors > led, measure voltage over led, look for closest to 1.9v, then test them in series too for 3.8.
Solder in led units in place of 470r, led anode (long leg) nearest tube.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
switch on and you'll see them start to glow once the tube is warm.
Have a listen.....
to my ears, and in my opinion only, this has lifted a veil and turn this dac into a better beast. It now easily beats the dacmagic in everty department. Remember in a previous post i said the bass was big and almost too much? with the LEDs in place, the bass is still deep, but its more controlled.
Dont forget, with leds the dynamic impedance is a lot lower than the resistor, but we had the resistor bypasses, hence no negative feedback. The non-bypassed leds will be injecting a tiny amount of negative feedback. My guess is distortion will decrease because of this, hence the feeling of better bass control.
is it for everyone? maybe... if you are after that oldschool tube sound then stick with the resistor and lytics as a bypass. Want something with a bit more bite? LEDS. its not a subtle difference in my opinion.
Last edited:
Adamus,
Very interesting mod. How did the mod affect the sound stage. As per personal taste I like large deep liquid sound stage with all details but not aggressive.
Also with regards to the bass what electrolytic caps did you use next to DAC chip, Oscon or something else?
Very interesting mod. How did the mod affect the sound stage. As per personal taste I like large deep liquid sound stage with all details but not aggressive.
Also with regards to the bass what electrolytic caps did you use next to DAC chip, Oscon or something else?
Its such a quick mod i would have a go yourself and evaluate.
I tried oscons and panasonic FC's. I actually preferred the FC's. With the caps in place the sound was big and warm, with good depth but imho lacking sparkle.
LED's you loose some of that warmth (its still just on the warm side), but the sparkle is back, highs seem to go that little bit higher. Its not aggressive (i dont think you could make the ad1865 aggressive) but the detail is easier to pick out. I personally found the dac slightly too warm with the caps, it made me pull my speakers further from the wall to reduce bass a bit. bypass caps can have a big effect, i learned this building the baby huey el84 valve amp. I even went the lengths to try blackgates (££).
with LED's dare i say the soundstage width increases a little, that added 'air' just seperates things a bit.
its interesting, when i see you say 'large deep liquid' i equate that to some degree of softness, not sure if thats what you mean to imply?
I genuinely believe this has taken the dac up another level. Just listening to some of my favourite tracks. Cello's are simply stunning through it!
I tried oscons and panasonic FC's. I actually preferred the FC's. With the caps in place the sound was big and warm, with good depth but imho lacking sparkle.
LED's you loose some of that warmth (its still just on the warm side), but the sparkle is back, highs seem to go that little bit higher. Its not aggressive (i dont think you could make the ad1865 aggressive) but the detail is easier to pick out. I personally found the dac slightly too warm with the caps, it made me pull my speakers further from the wall to reduce bass a bit. bypass caps can have a big effect, i learned this building the baby huey el84 valve amp. I even went the lengths to try blackgates (££).
with LED's dare i say the soundstage width increases a little, that added 'air' just seperates things a bit.
its interesting, when i see you say 'large deep liquid' i equate that to some degree of softness, not sure if thats what you mean to imply?
I genuinely believe this has taken the dac up another level. Just listening to some of my favourite tracks. Cello's are simply stunning through it!
Last edited:
1. Strosek: full set
2. boudy : full set
3. ksnider1: full set
4. toufu : (IV + Supply For IV) x 2
5. ferrari: (IV + Supply For IV) x 2
2. boudy : full set
3. ksnider1: full set
4. toufu : (IV + Supply For IV) x 2
5. ferrari: (IV + Supply For IV) x 2
1. Strosek: full set
2. boudy : full set
3. ksnider1: full set
4. toufu : (IV + Supply For IV) x 2
5. ferrari: (IV + Supply For IV) x 2
6. analogdiy: full set
2. boudy : full set
3. ksnider1: full set
4. toufu : (IV + Supply For IV) x 2
5. ferrari: (IV + Supply For IV) x 2
6. analogdiy: full set
1. Strosek: full set
2. boudy : full set
3. ksnider1: full set
4. toufu : (IV + Supply For IV) x 2
5. ferrari: (IV + Supply For IV) x 2
6. analogdiy: full set
7. wobii: full set
2. boudy : full set
3. ksnider1: full set
4. toufu : (IV + Supply For IV) x 2
5. ferrari: (IV + Supply For IV) x 2
6. analogdiy: full set
7. wobii: full set
1. Strosek: full set
2. boudy : full set
3. ksnider1: full set
4. toufu : (IV + Supply For IV) x 2
5. ferrari: (IV + Supply For IV) x 2
6. analogdiy: full set
7. wobii: full set
8. Cobra2: (IV + Supply For IV) x 2
2. boudy : full set
3. ksnider1: full set
4. toufu : (IV + Supply For IV) x 2
5. ferrari: (IV + Supply For IV) x 2
6. analogdiy: full set
7. wobii: full set
8. Cobra2: (IV + Supply For IV) x 2
I'm struggling to find suitable heat sinks for the salas board.
Can anyone recommend me any?
Thats all i need now and then i'm done too. 🙂
Can anyone recommend me any?
Thats all i need now and then i'm done too. 🙂
1. Strosek: full set
2. boudy : full set
3. ksnider1: full set
4. toufu : (IV + Supply For IV) x 2
5. ferrari: (IV + Supply For IV) x 2
6. analogdiy: full set
7. wobii: full set
8. Cobra2: (IV + Supply For IV) x 2
9. mikelm: full set
2. boudy : full set
3. ksnider1: full set
4. toufu : (IV + Supply For IV) x 2
5. ferrari: (IV + Supply For IV) x 2
6. analogdiy: full set
7. wobii: full set
8. Cobra2: (IV + Supply For IV) x 2
9. mikelm: full set
I'm struggling to find suitable heat sinks for the salas board.
Can anyone recommend me any?
Thats all i need now and then i'm done too. 🙂
you will be ok without for testing. They dont seem to get that hot if you stick to 27ohms.
i used these, just because i had them..
Rapid Electronics - Electronic Components
The pins didnt fit perfectly so i just drilled the holes slightly bigger.
i am very happy with the dacs performance now. with the led mod its very very pleasing to my ears.
I am bulding a couple of drop in CSS modules too ( cascode depletion mosfets) to test. will report back
Thanks adamus.
I might just get clip on sinks, yeh they aren't great, but the case will be forcefully ventilated anyway (12v fans operating at ~7v, push pull).
I might just get clip on sinks, yeh they aren't great, but the case will be forcefully ventilated anyway (12v fans operating at ~7v, push pull).
not sure forced cooling is a good idea to be honest. 5687's tend to be relatively microphonic as a family. both apellizo and i have experience microphonic valves in this dac-end.
you may get a quiet 'ringing'.
you may get a quiet 'ringing'.
I'm struggling to find suitable heat sinks for the salas board.
Can anyone recommend me any?
Thats all i need now and then i'm done too. 🙂
I got these today:
TO-220 Heatsink, Small Power Aluminum Heat-Sink, x 4pcs - eBay (item 260481603013 end time Mar-22-10 23:26:12 PDT)
Center hole isn't large enough for M3, but otherwise I think they are a good fit. No need to drill the PCB.
EDIT: Damn.. there is a M3 thread, not a hole.. 😱
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I got these today:
TO-220 Heatsink, Small Power Aluminum Heat-Sink, x 4pcs - eBay (item 260481603013 end time Mar-22-10 23:26:12 PDT)
Center hole isn't large enough for M3, but otherwise I think they are a good fit. No need to drill the PCB.
EDIT: Damn.. there is a M3 thread, not a hole.. 😱
Thats great. I'll get some. The TO-247 package fits ok?
Adamus, if i get these and they fit i'll stick to passive, thanks for the heads up.
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Thats great. I'll get some. The TO-247 package fits ok?
Adamus, if i get these and they fit i'll stick to passive, thanks for the heads up.
Yep.. Maybe 1mm gap between the pcb and heatsink, but not a problem.
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