Good to know the orientation doesn't matter in this case.
And you're right about potential inconsistency with the label. This datasheet shows the label on the secondary side: https://cinemag.biz/output/PDF/CMOQ-4.pdf
Cheers,
Dennis
And you're right about potential inconsistency with the label. This datasheet shows the label on the secondary side: https://cinemag.biz/output/PDF/CMOQ-4.pdf
Cheers,
Dennis
You bring this point up very timely, Dennis ! 🙂
I just installed a pair of Cinemag CMOQ-4s in some modified front-end boards yesterday evening, and noticed that they have their labels on opposite sides - one on the side where Pin 1 is, and the other opposed to that ... 😵
So, my conclusion is - it definitey doesn't matter - for consistency, go for where Pin 1 is (though even that shouldn't matter in the case of the CMOQ-4s, as Zen Mod wrote ...)
Regards, Claas
I just installed a pair of Cinemag CMOQ-4s in some modified front-end boards yesterday evening, and noticed that they have their labels on opposite sides - one on the side where Pin 1 is, and the other opposed to that ... 😵
So, my conclusion is - it definitey doesn't matter - for consistency, go for where Pin 1 is (though even that shouldn't matter in the case of the CMOQ-4s, as Zen Mod wrote ...)
Regards, Claas
Thanks, Dennis and ZM. You got my heart standing still. Me being very capable of doing such gaffes!
I'm pretty sure I didn't align the CMOQs by the logo, but by pin 1 (which I cruelly, coldhertedly chopped off just like ZM did)...
Although it is irrelevant, I will check orientation just for peace of mind. The boards are still off-chassis (sinks too small) so it's a natural thing to do.
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Sorry for the scare. I also did mine by Pin 1 but I guess I was confused by the inconsistent labelling (confirmed now by both you and Claas.)
Yeah, the pin snipping was a pretty violent operation... I'm happy to hear future builders will have one fewer thing to worry about. 🙂
Cheers,
Dennis
Yeah, the pin snipping was a pretty violent operation... I'm happy to hear future builders will have one fewer thing to worry about. 🙂
Cheers,
Dennis
Dennis, absolutely not! I‘m glad you observed the situation so precisel! Of course I‘m just as glad the it wouldn’t matter! 🙂
I‘d say this is one of the veryvery fee occasions where I could say: even more (chicken as ZM)!
(good morning!)
I‘d say this is one of the veryvery fee occasions where I could say: even more (chicken as ZM)!
(good morning!)
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Bunch of goddamn s*****s.
Amps forbidden in house and stuck in atelier: check
Wooden chassis: check.
I say go ahead and mount them Ge bastards straight to metal
I‘ll use some spit in between. Us montagnards are just as good as some ole cowboys 🤠 or vikings 🧔🏼♀️, HA!
Yodelaa-hee-hoo!
(What wooden chassis you talkin‘?)
Yodelaa-hee-hoo!
(What wooden chassis you talkin‘?)
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Just weekend? 😀😀😀ignore Vikings on Monday evenings ...... weekend Mead did took it's toll
All good now. Just kidding, and making a point out of the fact I don’t need Corona to be batsh** crazy. Genes and occational mead takes care of that, even when not sick
Realize now I should have added an emoji in the last post. I forgot there is always a chance of being taken seriously!
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Hello all,
I did an initial power up today. One channel seemed fine and I was able to set the bias / dc offset without much problem.
The other channel (built on the L pcb) is misbehaving. The current as measured across the 0.22 ohm resistors
jump up and down and I cannot trim the offset.
Any suggestions on where to start looking?
Thanks,
Dennis
I did an initial power up today. One channel seemed fine and I was able to set the bias / dc offset without much problem.
The other channel (built on the L pcb) is misbehaving. The current as measured across the 0.22 ohm resistors
jump up and down and I cannot trim the offset.
Any suggestions on where to start looking?
Thanks,
Dennis